I have had great luck with Kroil.

 

Years ago my LEO partner called me in a panic, "My Model 60 backup wont work!" Took it apart for him and it was filled with varnish, gumming up the works. He says, "How can that be? I wipe it down every days with WD40?" Cleaned it and lubed with BreakFree no more problems. Read my thread about using Mobil 1 for the last 20+ years with excellent results. Others like oils like Kroil (above) and Mobil 1 transmission fluid. The new WD formula may not have any of the original faults, just my $.02 worth of WD experience. AC

 

The OP is asking about a different product.

 

Fourty plus years of Hoppes oil for me, never a rust issue, worked for dad and granpa too!

 

Well I thought I would try to have my own little test. I got the idea from the net. I took a brake rotor and cleaned it up good and sectioned it off in 5 sections and applied the following:

1- Untreated
2- WD 40
3- Rem oil
4- WD-40 Long Term Corrision Inhibitor
5- Break Free CLP

I will let you guys know what how this works out. I could not find any Kroil to use but as soon as I find some I will have another test.

 

Hoppe's oil and paste wax for me. Can buy about a lifetime's supply for less than $20 and works great.

 

So here's what you do right?

You get your wife's food processor, dump a can of paste wax in there along with a bottle of #9 and then process it until it is smooth and creamy, like cool whip sort of.

Then you get a big glob and rub it all over everything on your rifle, wood, metal, whatever.

Use a big toothbrush full to get in the tight spaces.

Correct?

 

I use Eezox to prevent rust.

 

I've used 3 in One® oil on all of my firearms for the last 48 years; ALL are rust free!

 

As far as firearms go, I can't think of any "oil" that is worse !

 

Are you reffering to 3 in 1 or WD?

 

johnsons paste wax

 

there are far too many better alternatives! Wd-40 will remove color case hardening; I will never use near a firearm...

 

Hoppes.

 

An unscientific thought: I have heard that WD-40 displaces water by absorbing some of it and floating it off the metal surface. When then left in place, that small concentration of water can cause rust. I don't have any direct experience with WD-40 causing rust, because I don't want to chance it.

I use WD-40 as a water remover on guns that have been caught in the rain, BUT I then use a liberal bath of Ed's Red to remove the WD-40 before wiping that off, before a light coat of Mobil 1. Perhaps this is overkill, but it works, and I don't want to mess with success.

3 in 1 is a good product, but it can dry and harden over the long haul. The previous owner of one of my 336s used 3 in 1 in the bolt, and the firing pin became sticky. A soak in Ed's Red cleaned it out.

 

Been usin' WD40...and ONLY WD40 for YEARS with NO rust/gummed up parts for years!

 

kroil, marvels mystery oil, and paste wax work good for me

 

WD 40 is a penetrating oil if it gets on the cartridge it will penetrate into the cartridge a render it dead. If you use it be sure to wipe and patch the firearm dry. As for the fellow who had the lube cake up it probably was the factory lube if he only wiped it down with WD-40. I would suspect if it was years old he never took it apart. I had factory lube cake up on my safe queens after years of sleeping in the safe and only being wiped down.

T:biggrin: NY

 

Here's a link to a test done with different oils on live ammo.......

The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers - Page 1

 

Hoppes Gun Oil and Johnson paste wax, 50 years and counting, never an issue! I follow that KISS rule. :driver:

 

I've never used WD-40 on my guns. I've always used Hoppe's #9 as a solvent (powder and copper fouling) and CLP as a lubricant/rust inhibitor. I don't like to change what still works.

 

Hoppes.
(Jezz, I wonder if all the guys that use Hoppe's are over 60?:hmmmm:

 

Nope, 45 years young here :beerglass:

Been using Hoppes for more than 30 years.

 

I use Kroil when I am dealing with surface rust. I use it and steel wool to buff rust off. It's a penetrating oil, so I don't use it as my lube oil. For lube, I soak parts in Mobil 1 (0-20wt.), and for spraying and pickleing down a gun after bluing, I use CLP.

 

I use WD-40 to clean the chain on my motorcycle & Hoppe's on my guns.

 

Hoppe's worked for me as a kid. BTW if shooting milsurp or other corrosive ammo, Hoppe's No.9 is formulated for that. No need for me to use blaster bob's magic magnum mixer when the time proven stuff exists. The lower price leaves me more cash for ammo too.

 

A few years ago I quit using WD-40 because I read where it was not good for firearms. I do not know why. I had used it for as long as I can remember (40 years?) and it always worked fine. I never had a rust problem or a problem I could tie to lubrication with WD-40. I switched to Rem Oil and Eezox out of caution. Not sure I am any better off, but what I use now works well, too.

 

Interesting But at my Gun Club an US Marshal instructor qualifies US Marshals for their annual qualification and he stresses not to WD-40 because it can penetrate the a cartridge. Now if I was a US Marshal why would I take the chance when my life may depend on that round. Okay it might be old school and today's ammo are probably made tighter and sealed better too. Even WD-40 can't get out of it's can without opening it. WD-40 not only kills primers but will kill powder too. If you use a Muzzleloader and it won't fire with a live charge and ball down the barrel and you must pull the ball to make it safe, just spray WD-40 in the flask hole and it will kill the powder then you can remove the ball.

I would guess in spite of your link " The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers - Page 1 " there were days when ammo was made of lead bullets and maybe the primers were not crimp and sealed where as the WD-40 would do what it was made to do and that is to penetrate either the powder or primer or both "myth" I think not.


I have use WD-40 to loosing frozen plumbing pipes, nut and bolts it does it's job. I have a half a box of 45 acp a feller give me, he had a flood and this box of ammo got soaked the other half of the box fired. I pulled the rounds he give me the powder was wet. Maybe a better test might have been to drop the ammo into a cup of WD-40 instead of pooling the oil a top of the crimped and sealed primers.

Just my thoughts:hmmmm: Now let me think:hmmmm: If water can got into a cartridge why can't penetrating oil get into it too:questionmark:

T:flute: NY

 

So weve figured out that you shouldnt use wd40 to wipe down a firearm cause if you dropped your ammo in a cup of it (or any liquid) it would get inside the case. Are these people sealing and filling clips with oil then loading ammo into he clip for long term storage?

 

No I think not but who knows! I was just comparing to the test in the link " The Box O' Truth #39 - Oil Vs. Primers " I personally use WD-40 to clean my firearms. The point I'm trying to make is if WD-40 finds a way to get into the cartridge it will kill or weaken the charge or primer or both.

I guess if your life depended on the firearm you are carrying you wouldn't want a round in the chamber to get penetrating oil entering either from the barrel or the firing pin channel from a overly WD-40 lubricated barrel or firing mechanism.

T:biggrin: NY

 

Most people might not know it but we are all running an "unscientific" test on how gummy our oils get. I somehow have a ton of different brand spray bombs and oil cans sitting around that accumulated over many years. Just look at the tops of the cans and pick at them with a small screwdriver. Almost every can of oil I have has residue on top of the can or around the nozzle. Now all you have to do is figure out if the oil degraded or got contaminated with airborn dust and dirt. I use kroil and it is an excellent penetrator and even barrel cleaner...but man the stuff on top of the can is really sticky and bad. So are some other brands.