I saw that discussion and half considered it on the Mod 60 stock I'm doing but didn't try it.

To be honest, I like the wait and patience. By no stretch am I patient by nature and I like that the oil makes me wait. Keeps me focused and just seems to make it more enjoyable.

 

wish I had read this about a weekago.

 

Perfict timeing I have a 20 year old 35 rem with nice zebra striping in the stock I'v been thinking about redoing.

 

ArmorAll has a lot of silicone in it. It doesn't mix with much of anything. I do use it on plastic stocks to make them look new.

 

Somebody on here try this and post the results. I'm pretty skeptical about mixing silicone with Tru-Oil and having the stuff dry correctly. Tru-Oil already has driers and hardeners in it. If I was going to try it, I think I'd start on a piece of scrap wood first, then when I was satisfied, I'd go to my stock.

 

At some point the Truoil will flake off.

 

At some point the Truoil will flake off.

What do you base that statement on? Do you have experience, or pictures of one that did? If so, please share the evidence before one of us (like me) gives it a try. Thanks.

 

At some point the Truoil will flake off.

I have no experience with this, but just think about the silicone. Nothing really sticks to it. That's the problem I would have.

 

I love to experiment and last year a good friend in New Braunfels, Texas gave me a nice, thick piece of walnut. I use it to develop the stains I put on my Marlins and have a couple of belt sanders to remove the stains once the walnut piece gets used up. I just may try the Tru-Oil and Armor All out just to see.

Dave 8)

 

Silicone is a universal mold release. Nothing sticks to it and you can't remove it. It's used to spray cook ware to prevent food from sticking.

 

Silicone is a universal mold release. Nothing sticks to it and you can't remove it. It's used to spray cook ware to prevent food from sticking.

Might those properties be good if its IN the finish, not on the wood first where it would prevent adhesion & penetration, but mixed with the finish itself?

I'll probably never try it because I'm very satisfied with Tru oil and a couple others & IMO if someones in a rush they should just use quick dry poly & be done with it.

On another note, my wife can get eggs stuck to a pan, I dont care what you use or what its coated with.

 

I saw that discussion and half considered it on the Mod 60 stock I'm doing but didn't try it.

To be honest, I like the wait and patience. By no stretch am I patient by nature and I like that the oil makes me wait. Keeps me focused and just seems to make it more enjoyable.

I'm all for trying new ideas, etc but this wouldn't be one of them. I like Tru Oil and I like to apply one just coat a day.

bjm

 

I agree. I like Tru-Oil and Minwax Wipe on Poly. If you read through that post on rimfire central you will see that some folks had problems with it. I suspect that the finish will have problems at some point in the future, and I'm not about to experiment on any of my guns with it.

 

With most any type of finish, step one is always to make sure your surface is free of any kind of oils, grease,waxes, etc....anything that could interfere with bonding. It sounds like a bad idea to me. However, it won't cost anything but time to try....if it makes a mess or flakes off down the road a do-over the conventional way is not a big deal. I just don't see the point of it....tru-oil is fine like it is.

 

"On another note, my wife can get eggs stuck to a pan, I dont care what you use or what its coated with."

ROFLMAO Ken. I must have married her sister.

Dave 8)

 

Well it's an interesting concept. I think I may give it a try, maybe on some scrap wood first to see what happens. I've learned through the years not to write off new-to-me concepts right off the bat because I've had to eat crow more times than I care to remember. ;D

 

Every concept was new at one time!

 

If I am in that much of a hurry on a fine firearm such as a Marlin I may as well give up!

 

I am very disappointed with most of the replies in this thread. Please follow the link and read about it on rimfirecentral. It is a well established method.

 

I am very disappointed with most of the replies in this thread. Please follow the link and read about it on rimfirecentral. It is a well established method.

Why be in such a hurry???

 

I did follow the link and read about it. I've worked with similar products since 1985 in an industrial environment. Ask any paint shop what they think about applying coatings where the surface is contaminated with silicone. Once the silicone contaminates the surface it cannot be removed.

 

I did follow the link and read about it. I've worked with similar products since 1985 in an industrial environment. Ask any paint shop what they think about applying coatings where the surface is contaminated with silicone. Once the silicone contaminates the surface it cannot be removed.

Ask any furniture refinisher what will cause fisheye or maybe , orange peel. A surface contaminated with silicone equals a ruined application plus having to remove the finish again and start over. Maybe a re-do on a gun stock isn't so bad but a large piece of furniture is quite costly in labor and materials.

I may be proven wrong about the Tru oil and silcone mix, but I would like to see how it holds up over time. Yeah, I still believe that water and oil don't mix and don't believe silicone and oil mix either. Again, time will tell. Meanwhile, I'm sticking to more conventional methods. YMMV

 

Great post and thanks for a new idea. Worth my time to give it a try. Your stock work is excellent, takes more than a bottle of stock finish to get the results shown in your photos. Good prep work is probably more important than the finish used.

 

Where I think folks are getting stuck is we arent talking about putting the silicone on first & contaminating the surface with it. I'm not saying this idea is a good one or not, just that I dont think its the same as spraying a stock with silicone before finishing it. Also alot of things work for some that others wont like. I'v never read of or heard from anyone involved in wood finishing that oil can be used over poly, rather everything I'v read or been told suggests its not good, yet for many folks its just fine to touch up Marshield with tru oil. Silicone works well to preserve & protect leather and those properties in a wood finish might not hurt a thing.

I'll reserve my judgement on it until I can do more than tell folks what I think. People do things I think are stupid all the time anyway. ;D

 

Mr. Pick, I aggree with Hal, Sportster and several others, I don't think teh mix will work out well. Tru-Oil is kettle boiled linseed oil and does very well as a stock finish. Armorall is made with lots of silicones and is intended for vinyl and plastic. I do not think the two products will mix and stay mixed in solution very well, they are just not compatible.. Armorall would be good for a synthetic stock except the stock would be very slick and slippery. I agree also with Eli Chaps, I too like the slow method, the results can be very rewarding. Take care, John.