Welcome to MO!

 

Your going to get the most 'look' out of a stock with Tru-oil. There are lots of other things to consider. I like to hunt and shoot so finish durability is more important and lean more toward a satin urethane, and prefer Helmsman. Irrespective of the final finish used, preparation is most important. Lots of information on-line for finish removing, sanding, heating oil stains, etc. Checkering is a challenge. If the checkering is good suggest taping it up and refinish around it. If the checking is rough you may need to dress it before finishing and that is complete different set of tools. You should also consider bedding. Bedding is probably the least difficult step and gives you just a bit more accuracy. No way a post can do justice to stock refinishing. You should check out Tree Bone carving How to Fit a Gunstock - Treebone Carving.

 

Your going to get the most 'look' out of a stock with Tru-oil. There are lots of other things to consider. I like to hunt and shoot so finish durability is more important so I lean more toward a satin urethane and prefer Helmsman. Irrespective of the final finish used, preparation is most important. Lots of information on-line for finish removing, sanding, heating oil stains, etc. Checkering is a challenge. If the checkering is good suggest taping it up and refinish around it. If the checking is rough you may need to dress it before finishing and that is complete different set of tools. You should also consider bedding. Bedding is probably the least difficult step and gives you just a bit more accuracy. No way a post can do justice to stock refinishing. You should check out Tree Bone carving How to Fit a Gunstock - Treebone Carving.

Hello neighbor. A very useful link as I now find that I must acquire and fit a new gunstock.

 

Earlier this year, I bought a new 1895 with the straight stock, and no checkering. The wood look was rather bland, IMO. Just rubbing some gun oil on it, brought out an improved look. The oil soaked in, without making a mess. At that point, I bought some tung oil finish from Home Depot, that's really more of a linseed oil product, as I've heard, and rubbed in several coats over a few days. This is all simple, without doing sanding and re-staining job. This turned out looking very good. The grain pattern stands out, with a glossy depth look. Whatever the original finish was, this oil finish took right over it. It's now been over a half year later, and the finish still looks great, with a lot of use.I did the same, to my 336SS- 30-30 which was purchased a few months later. It's stock looked more like the one pictured in this thread. It looked better than the 1895's to start with, so the difference isn't as dramatic. For both rifles, I did remove the wood completely. No sanding was required. Just a lot of rubbing with cloths.

 

Shine= nothing beats shellac, but it's easy to damage, next probably the poly/epoxy type automotive finish very durable, but not easy to repair, the all time best tru oil or a wiping varnish.. You can work this finish to a very high shine by using the sanding in method up to 1200 grit then use your hand... it makes a browning type finish.. I don't like this type of finish (this high of a polish), but it's an option. Tru oil is by far the best finish for walnut gunstocks I know of

I have started using minwax penetrating gunstock stain to treat my stocks... it pops the grain good, and evens out he tones matching two different stocks when they wouldn't otherwise

 

I used Minwax Tung Oil Finish on an unfinished walnut DCM 1903 Springfield stock It was recommended by several people in the DCM forums. I put several coats on the 1903 wood. I let each coat penetrate into the wood then wiped it off to leave a satin finish. It worked out great.

I later used some of the same can of Minwax Tung Oil Finish on an unfinished walnut Ruger No.3 stock. For that I used thicker coats, let each coat harden, and took each coat down - first coats with fine sandpaper and later coats with steel wool. The last couple of coats were applied very thin, allowed to dry very hard, and polished with rotten stone. That left a deep, high polish finish similar to the shiny finish on Weatherby's wood stocked rifles. It was a straight stock. I later had the lever modified for a pistol grip and installed No.1 wood. The finish on that fancy No.3 stock was so nice that when I sold it on the internet it went for $150 over what I'd paid for it.

This is from a tech article at thecmp.org. I have added some clarification comments in brackets:

Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil and varnish blend that is much more waterproof [than tung oil] and will dry due to added driers. It can be built up into a gloss, but that is not usually done. It is best used as an in the wood finish rather than a built up on the wood finish. Minwax Tung Oil Finish resists scratches and is more resistant to gun oils and chemicals associated with firearms.

The best qualities of Minwax Tung Oil Finish allow it to be wiped on and wiped off properly prepared wood leaving an in the wood finish of a look similar to BLO [boiled linseed oil], but far more stable and protective. A number of coats to clean and repair scratches can be applied without building up on the surface if rubbed in carefully and then rubbed dry.

 

Note: It was Minwax Tung Oil finish, that I used in my reply, for the two rifles.

 

Welcome to the Forum!

As you've already read, there are a lot of methods for stock refinishing. As I've admired many refinishing jobs posted through the years, it seems no one does it exactly the same way! My only experience has been Tru-Oil and you can achieve a very glossy and durable finish if you choose. Personally, I knocked the final coat off lightly with 0000 steel wool for a more matte finish.

There are some very talented refinishers around here that can share more specifics, but go slow and share your results!

Keith

 

As a quick aside, bought a used 2005 .45/70, which arrived with a broken stock thanks to FedEx and poor packaging. Replaced the stock with a new one that fit quite well and, thanks to pictures shared with the vendor, actually matched the wood tone. What was different though was the finish. The front grip was shiny while the new stock was flat/dull. Took 4-O steel wool to both to gently rough both surfaces and then applied Tru-Oil with the thought that both would dry with a uniform hue and luster. After six hours of drying, it looks like a success.

 

Im a violin maker -- and that is always a thing you try to do there too. There are some drawbacks to some of the finished mentioned. Tru-oil works nice --- but it
is extremely glossy--- to the point of being gaudy. It does work good and is very easy. Tongue oil is nice to look at but even after well dry-- is hydroscopic.
It wont dry if applied in high humidity. Has to be overcoated with something else to protect it it from moisture.

Here is a general approach--- sand old finish off down to bare wood. sand from coarse up to about 600 grit. Blow dust off with air. Mix up some sugar
free jello --- about a 1/2 teaspoon in 1/2 a cup warm water. Brush on a light to medium coat onto bare wood. let dry 24 hrs. lightly sand again with 600.
Next make a stain. This stain can be made of many different things. You can make a concentrated solution of common tea. 4 small bags in 1/2 cup got water.
you can also use coffee. I have seen that work really good but havnt tried it yet. paint this solution on . You can do several coats-- letting it dry between coats.
(the jello prevents over penetration and blotchyness from differential penetration)
(dont use any steel wool untill the wood has been filled with the jello) (steel wool on bare wood breaks off steel splinters into the grain of the wood----
if you stain with tea or coffee OVER the splinters-- the tannic acid make a black dot everywhere there is a splinter--- ask me how I know !!! )

After you have stained---- you can lightly sand with 600 again to adjust the opacity / color of the water based stain. Reapply as needed until
you like the look. Once you like how it looks- find a ROUGH rag out of burlap or maybe terrycloth. The rougher the better. even an old red shop rag.....
Carefully dampen- evenly- (NOT wet) the rag with linseed oil. (boiled type) Take the rag and rub the wood really hard- trying to apply a LOT of pressure-
you are trying to burnish the surface and generate a little heat...... Keep doing this until you see the grain pop out. you can burnish right after the jello fill-
but the oil kind of seals off the wood from any further water based things.... (colorings)
Burnish as long and heavy as you like. After thats done- let it dry a couple of days. Then you can come back and paint on a brushed coat of linseed oil.
you can tint the oil with organic dyes. The tint is not a large effect because the oil film is thin. but you can see it. Linseed makes a very tough practical and
natural looking surface. You can leave it that way for a "soft" , natural look. For a shineyer look- let the oil dry for about 5 days or a week until its 100 hard-
then over coat with gloss polyurethane or the Tru-Oil. When you paint on the linseed- you have to go THIN if its not soaking in. let it stand for an hour or 2 and come back and wipe it off with a dry rag. let THAT dry for a couple days. Then overcoat with whatever.

Try this process on several test scraps---figure out the colors and concentrations you like before you do the real piece.

maybe this is too much info ? sorry --- I have a thing for beautiful wood......

Tim

PPS - here is what that looks like when you do it right ! This is one by Louis Manfeo- he makes one of the most beautiful
finishes I have seen. Id be happy to do 1/2 that good !

 

Welcome to Marlin Owners from dismal valley. Here is a picture of an 1895 I just refinished with Tru-oil.

 

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Refinishing is truly an art! Thanks for sharing.

 

Welcome to The Forum from NC! I can't give you much advise for a glossy finish. I like the opposite. An oil finish that is slick as deer guts on a door knob. Pure 100% Tung oil. No tung oil finish. 50/50 mix with mineral spirits. Apply and let it soak in. Wipe off any excess as if you are trying to remove it. Repeat until it takes no more in. Burnish the last coat and let it cure for a day. Use Minwax paste wax natural for a protective top coat. You'll have a nice stock set to be proud of.
I use citri-strip and a brush with mineral spirits to strip the old off. Then sand to slick it up. You can use an iron with steam and a towel to remove shallow dents and dings. This will raise the grain, so do this before sanding. Only use fine paper working your way up to 600. Blow the dust off with air hose then dampen rag with mineral spirits to wipe down.
I like em to look like they were done back in the 50's and 60's. Same goes for my fiddles, upright bass, mandolin and banjo.

 

Everyone keep in mind- tongue oil wont harden if there is much ambient humidity. (ask me how I know-- ! )And it will react with water later by softening. HAS to be overcoated with something else. For outdoor use - I cant believe anything could be better (maybe epoxy varnish) than linseed oil. I built a thick topped woodworking table using 2x4's on edge.
Planed it flat and put multiple coats of linseed oil on. NOTHING sticks to it or absorbs into it. great stuff !
I want to guess that factory in 1960's used water based stain followed by clear or tinted lacquer. Thats just a guess based on how it looks....
T

 

All the old factory finishes before "Marshield" were oil finished and not top coated that I know of.

 

Look at some you Tube videos on the subject. I am an oil finish guy and never cared for the high gloss look, to each their own though. I just got the forearm of my 1895 back after a guy carved 4 bear paws into it for me. I have been working on the butt stock and I will soon put some Minwax Pre Stain Wood Conditioner on it, then a light Minwax Sedona Red stain on it followed by Lin-Speed Oil, with appropriate drying times between coats. After it is good and dry I will use a rubbing compound to gently take the shine off and then rub it down with bees wax once in a while.

There are some oil finishes that will put out a shine if used correctly. But, I am not aware of any high end stock finish that was not an oil finish, it just makes the grain jump out when applied correctly.

I have used Tru Oil and it was ok and can be pretty shiny. It reminds me more of a polymer of some type. So much of it is in the application, a labor of love and fun!

Your stock from the pics shows potential, hand rub that oil pard!

 

I don't know if anyone asked but what is this intended for? If it is just for looks then I would use whatever you want. But if you plan to hunt with that gun and get it wet then it is hard to beat the factory marshield finish for durability. Personally I'm not a big fan of glossy wood finishes on my guns either. To me nothing beats the rich texture of pure linseed or tung oil, or the boiled variants which have added driers to make them cure faster. I tend to shy away from oil-based varnishes such as tru-oil, watco danish oil finish, formby's tung oil finish, minwax finish etc but some guys swear by them. FWIW here is one that I recently finished with pure tung oil:

 

If you want to really bring out the grain in the wood, try a solution of 1/4 teaspoon potassium dichromate dissolved in one pint of warm water. Apply liberally with a sponge brush, two coats always worked quite well for me. This will bring out the grain quite beautifully. It will also slightly darken the wood, and I found that frequently no staining was required to achieve a color that I really liked.
Old-time gunsmiths used a solution of potassium permanganate for the same purpose. Look at some of the old flintlocks in museum collections, that deep finish was created with a homemade solution of permanganate or its equivalent. I find that dichromate is easier to use. There are several sites on the internet that illustrate wood that has been treated with dichromate or permanganate.
I have several gun stocks I plan to refinish in this manner when I have the time, which won't be very soon most likely as I have not had a day off since Christmas, and none in sight in the foreseeable future.
I used this formula many times about 20 years ago when I had a restoration shop in Jacksonville Florida, and it turns out a really beautiful stock.
As with any other woodworking endeavor, preparation and attention to detail are the keys to ending up with a beautiful finish.
Potassium dichromate is available on eBay the last time I looked for around $10 a pound. Buy a pound and split it with four or five friends, and you will each have a lifetime supply.

 

Tung oil is very different from Linseed oil...I consider Linseed oil to be a tool handle finish and Tung oil to be a presentation finish. Tung oil will harden and leave a "wet" look were linseed oil (if done correctly) soaks into the wood for a nice but flat finish (and leaves gummy residue if too much is used and not removed). The problem with Tung oil, is that the hard finish will take marks (like impressions) and it needs to be sanded and refreshed every so often to keep the same look. True oil leaves a similar finish to Tung oil but over time I have seen it chip and flake like varnish...my clay shooting friend in the UK used to be a big proponent of True Oil and has stopped using it for this reason. For me, I like Tung oil if I want a wet looking finish but then I don't mind sanding a reapplying a couple of top coats every so often. You can also look at CCL products, they look promising and I have heard good things about them but have not personally used them yet.
Oh...don't get me wrong, Linseed oil is a really good finish, by tool handle finish I mean that it is tough.
RT4

 

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Before Minwax Wipe-on-poly, I used to make my own Tru-oil for finishing. Nothing to it just mix 1/3 Boiled Linseed, with 1/3 Spar varnish, and 1/3 Turpentine. Presto, Tru-oil. Now I use the Wipe-on-poly, Much easier to control and can be made to look like any other finish. Also much tougher and easier to repair when accidents happen. What's not to like.

 

I have successfully used Birchwood Casey True Oil to get a really glossy smooth finish that looks like polished resin. You will want to strip all of the original finish off. Use a tooth brush for the checkering so you done ruin the sharp edges of the diamond patterns. After you fully strip the wood rinse it or clean it off with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. At this point where the wood is fully stripped and clean you will want to address any gouges or dents (if any). Use a wet cloth and a hot iron to steam out any deep dents and scratches. Do not try to sand them smooth or you will create a dips in the wood. Let the stock dry before you move on the enhancing the grain. If you want to make the grain stand out mix a batch of linseed oil with some oil based walnut stain and rub this on the bare wood. This will bring out the grain and color. Now hit it with clear wood filler\sealer (Birchwood Casy also makes this) until the grains are filled in. Don't seal the checkering areas. At this point sand lightly with 320 or finer grit sand paper being careful not to create dips (use a flat block on the flats). Now start hitting it with True Oil one layer at a time. I use a tiny brush to True oil the checkering (just enough coats to seal the checkering where it soaks in and does not remain on the surface). You may have to put on 12-15 layers to get the very glossy smooth resin look. You can also use 0000 steel wool to smooth out the oil layers between coats. It's time consuming if you want a first class job. Be patient.

 

I started with the same wood grain as yours.......

 

I`ve done several. YouTube really gave me some great information . A tutorial with audio/visual.

 

Without reading all the posts the answer to the question in the title is the harder you make the process, the worse the results.

 

harder CAN be better-- but it can be worse as well--- its all in the details---