It will go rancid in time and probably smell bad.

 

Just what I was going to say, if you want a finish like that get pure tung oil, add just a little paint thinner to it so it’ll dry….pure tung oil is NOT minwax tung oil by the way.

 

Got me thinking, why not spray vegetable oil? Am I missing something here?

They do go rancid but they in addition they don't catalyze (is that the right word) mix with oxygen and harden like tung oil or linseed oil.

 

I have some experience with plant and animal oils. There are a couple of issues with using most “raw” oils. As mentioned above they will go rancid (oxidize/rot) and will likely over darken the wood.

Most oils need some form of processing to prevent them from going rancid. Boiled linseed, Neat’s foot oil, mineral, castor and MCT (fractionated coconut) oils all have long shelf-lives and might be worth an experiment.

Canola oil is a manufactured/processed oil, but has a very short shelf-life. There are some non-processed exotic (African and Asian) oils with long shelf life‘s that might work, also.

This is a form of oxidation or going rancid, but have beneficial effect of actually turning to a varnish. Most oils will eventually turn to something like a varnish but can be very dark, sticky non-hardening or smell bad. Conventional old-school motor oil will also turn to varnish fairly quickly. It has been used as an inexpensive finish on siding and furniture.

If you were going to experiment with different oils use very thin light coats and be sure to wipe up any excess. You might try mixing them with turpentine or mineral spirits.

 

On hot, sunny days it will bleed out.

 

So will linseed and in the rain too. I prefer Tru-oil or REAL ol-time varnish.

 

I would worry mold would want to feed off of it as well.

 

Thanks all! I never considered the fact that cooking oils wouldn't harden. I have handled old rifles that felt greasy, or sticky, now I wonder if it was whatever farmer bubba wiped on there.
I'll stick with the oils I know. My favorite still being Tru-Oil. Thanks again.....

 

my main fear is that something rancid can develop unpredictable harmful effects on metal surfaces at close contact, when not sticky deposits.

 

An example of harming the metas is the Belguim made Browning "T" bolt .22's. They used some type of salt in the curing process for the walnut they used. It would rust the barrels and actions. If you ever buy one of these, remove it from the stock and inspect it before you purchase one.

 

I certainly would not recommend any cooking oils for a finish on wood items.
On the other hand, I have used olive oil on old leather rifle slings, with good results. I have never had any issues with odor or dry flaking.
Andrew

 

Bugs will eat it or be attracted to it.

 

I may be crazy here, but I am working on a non-Marlin rifle and the stock is undergoing major changes.
I was using spray vegetable cooking oil as a parting agent for the JB Weld bedding I was doing.
As a lark, I sprayed some of the Canola oil on a patch and rubbed it into a spot on the stock that is now "finish ready".
The result is a very pleasing soft low luster oil finish reminiscent of older firearms.
Got me thinking, why not spray vegetable oil? Am I missing something here?
Do you all know of any reason why Pam, spray Canola oil or any number of spray cooking oils would not work?
I am always trying new finishes, this may be yet another. Thanks, Mike

I'd like to see how your Canola Oil is doing after a few months regards, AC

 

Is there much oil in Tru-Oil?

 

I'm thinking stick to the purpose of the oil. Canola is for cooking, not rifle stock refinishing. Actually, Canola oil is a manufactured oil primarily from processed Rapeseed (Brassica napus) and is a very low acid oil. It was originally trademarked by the Canadian Oilseed Processors Association. The didn't want to call it "Rape Oil" (wise choice) so they came up with Canola. CAN-O-LA is a mnemoic of CANadian Oil Low Acid. When I teach classes this is one of the most interesting points for students.

 

We still call it Rape Seed Oil over here The bleeding hearts haven't caught on to yet I don't think

 

Can you get Danish oil it The States?
I use it on my kitchen worktops. Darkens Oak and leaves it nice and water resistant.

 

I use Watkins Danish Oil

jd

 

I use TUNG drying oil. Unlike linseed oil that is food for fungus. Water resistant and doesn't breed fungus like linseed oil. AC

 

I used Tru-Oil on gunstocks and revolver grips for almost 40 years. Then I discovered Homer Formby's Tung Oil. It's easier to work with than Tru-Oil and is easier to touch up in case of scratches or abrasions. It's a very durable finish. I've been using Homer Formby's for ten years, absolutely no complaints.

 

Use the proper oil, after it absorbs coat with wax to protect.

I've been using Homer Formby's for ten years, absolutely no complaints.

I remember when Homer had his TV show back in the day.

 

Good little write-up

Tung Oil vs Danish Oil

Find out if you should be using Tung Oil or Danish Oil

www.furnitureclinic.co.uk

.

 

Cooking oil is for french fries not for walnut finishes.

AC

 

Formby's Tung Oil is made with a polyurethane mix, it's not pure Tung Oil. I inherited a can of High Gloss and a can of Matte finish when my sweetheart died, it was in her woodworking supplies. Formby's makes a very durable finish, goes on smooth, doesn't get sticky or tack up like Tru-Oil and is easy to blend in with your finger(s).
So far, I did a walnut rifle stock that was damaged from hunting in the rain/sleet/snow and a revolver grip set from scratch with Formby's. Both turned out well, it is very user friendly, I am an amateur woodworker at best.

 

There are plenty of high quality varnish finishes available which are suitable for gunstocks. Use one of them.

Raw oil is not suitable - it never cures/dries. The best you get is a sticky mess.

 

Okay, it didn't dawn on me at the time that the cooking oil was "raw".
All I saw was a nice soft "glow" on the wood, and pondered whether it would be yet another type of finish.
There are too many known excellent oils to use to mess with something like that. Thanks, all

 

I would not use any type of cooking oil. Take a look at either WATCO, or Skidmore's if you want a durable wax finish.

Bert

 

I use floor wax works great some automotive wax’s also do excellent job Johnson is excellent wax combat medic

 

I have been using Tru-Oil and Johnson's Floor wax on my guns for decades.
I was taught, back in the late 60's by a black powder competitor to wax my guns with Johnson's Floor wax. 4 coats, on, off. Since then I have had no problems with rust.
I experimented recently on some .22's I restored with boiled Linseed oil, both straight, and thinned with odorless mineral spirits. I even tied a mixture of stain, Linseed oil and mineral spirits. It went on great, but I had issues with how well it dried out.
I went back to Tru-Oil because I've always gotten dependable results.
I did try a simple wax only finish on Taylor's .243, I'm waiting to see how that pans out in time.
I'm glad I started this conversation, lots of different products discussed, and different methods. I enjoy seeing how other folks tackle finishing issues. Thanks again, all.

 

about alternative poor man's WW2 solutions, exhausted motor oil was frequently used by the Germans to protect wooden stocks_
on the other side, and I wonder if this was partially due to the greater tolerances of Russian small arms compared to the opponent ones, unavailability of more hi-tech products, or simply the result of political propaganda, but sunflower oil was something that seemed to have proved good efficiency during Russian winter to enable mg's operation under extreme cold conditions.

 

The Russians also used laundry washing powder and water to clean their guns. They oiled them with "oil." As in any oil/fat available.

On the motor oil... Their problem was gunstocks getting soaked by rain/snow and then splitting when they re-froze. Those boys didn't care about the wood getting mushy or the finish never sticking again.

Thanks.

 

Whatever you decide, try it on a piece of wood first to see the effect it has—some small out of the way spot on the stock.

Bert

 

I use Danish oil and then use some of this to keep it nice.

Slipperydicksgunwax

gun stock oils and waxes

www.slipperydicksgunwax.co.uk

 

Old school here...Tru-Oil and Lin Speed have served me well over the years.