I don't have any first hand experience with your issue, but I do know a few guys who have use Citri Strip and a stiff nylon brush to remove damaged factory finishes from their wood stocks with checkering. The checkering took a little elbow grease, but they were able to get the job done.
Good luck.

 

I would definitely recommend the CitriStrip -- it's much more user friendly than a lot of the stripping products. If you're patient (with a capital P), you can do the checkering with a STIFF toothbrush backed up with a bunch of wooden toothpicks. Another tool that might come in handy is a very fine bristled brass brush. The trick is to let the stripper work and be very patient! Good luck and show us some before and after pics! Merry Christmas. John

 

good old Naptha will work just fine and a nylon bristled brush or a toothbrush.

 

I've had good success with CitriStrip as well. Let it sit a while then work with a toothbrush. Use a toothpick to clean and detail...or cut the middle of a Q-tip on an angle. The dense paper makes a good tool to get to the bottom angles of the checkering.

Happy holidays to all...
Drills

 

The stripper suggestions will work, if you have the time. Occasionally, paint (depending upon what type it is) will really turn into chewing gum-like stuff with stripper and becomes almost impossible to get out of tight details like checkering. If you have anyplace close to have it dipped (like a furniture refinisher) it might be worth it. Then, just refinish the clean wood. My.02

 

I bought Citri-strip and will try that. I do know that there is a place that used to dip furniture, don,t know if they still do, but will find out just in case.

 

when I was a kid, my parents had some furniture dipped. It totally ruined the furniture. Veneer came off, joints split, wood dried out so bad that it looked fuzzy from the dry fibers all over it. After that experience I would never dip anything.

 

The paint isn't very thick, it's more like overspray. I guess the guy that painted it ( a friend of mine ) was just tring to dull it down a touch, he's a duck hunter. I wonder what effect if any the stripper will have on the bluing underneath?

 

Sounds like attack of the Bubba! :hmmmm:

 

Sounds like you have a plan of attack. Take some before and after pictures, and let us know how it goes.

Regards,
Drills

 

Yeah, you could say that.

 

You're not trying to refinsh the wood while it is still on the gun are ya?

Never had an 1100 apart so don't know how hard it is to get the wood separated but that is the best route.

 

No Eric, I'll remove the wood but the metal was painted too.

 

Now that is seriously Bubba'd!

 

One item I always keep around for such items is a cheap oven cleaner from a Dollar store, takes paint of pretty well.

 

Well he hasn't decided what he wants to do yet, but all this advice isn't going to waste be cause I am going to strip the stock on my nephew's Glennfield 30A before I return it to him. I'm thinking about using Tru-oil, what do ya'll think?

 

Hope your MP son was not the one who painted over wood. My salute to him, and his service to our country!

All of the above mentioned strippers will get the paint off. Depending on whether it is oil or water based, it may take many coats(4/5) or just one or two. I think the tough problem will be the checkering. Believe it or not, I use a battery tooth brush. You can buy them at walmart for about $10 and they come with spare brushes. Let them do the hard work of getting into those small areas. chang brushes to was out last coating.

Good luck on your project. Send us some pic.

willr28

 

who the hell go a hold of this rifle?