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Reloading newbie questions? Lee hand press.

5K views 46 replies 33 participants last post by  vikingsoftpaw  
#1 ·
Hey everyone. I've got a few questions about reloading. For backstory, I own a 336 in 30-30 and love it dearly, it is the only rifle I shoot with any regularity or did at least. In my particular zip code 30-30 ammo is unobtainium. My local stores have not seen it in more than a year and I hate buying online. So she hasn't gotten to stretch her legs because I do not want to run through my current stash until I can get more. To that end I have been considering getting into reloading. Specifically with the lee hand press. So to my first question.

1. Is the lee hand press worth it? I like the portable idea but is it that much more of a pain than a basic bench press?

2. Can you shoot basic cast lead i.e. wheel weights or will it gum up the micro grooves? I ask because I own and run a Blacksmiths shop and casting my own bullets appeals to that part of me. And or to the part that watched the Patriot at an impressionable age (watching Crowe melt the army men and cast his own ammo always stuck with me).

3. Lastly quite a few components seem to be scarce for reloading still. Is it worth thinking of reloading when primers and such are hard to get. I'm not thinking of getting into reloading to save money. I only think it might provide a more reliable stream of ammo so I can actually get out and shoot.

Thanks for any and all advice.
 
#16 · (Edited)
1) Get a bench press, they are much faster to use than a hand press.
Ditto this. A hand press will get tiring very quickly and will not provide the typical 'reloading' experience a bench mounted press will. A bench mounted press is essential for even reloading at a basic level.

I'm not thinking of getting into reloading to save money. I only think it might provide a more reliable stream of ammo so I can actually get out and shoot.
Well, it's good you are not looking at saving money. You will (on paper) and eventually the cost of your equipment will be offset by it. Also the convenience of having the ability to produce ammo at home helps (even in 'good' times of ammo availability) by not having to run around to buy it.

Another advantage of reloading is being able to produce speciality or light loads you cannot buy in certain calibers.

Bottom line is you should consider reloading as an 'extension' of your interest in shooting and firearms above all and to produce the best loads for all your guns.
 
#3 ·
The lee hand press works, but it is a compromise and doesn't work as easy or nicely as a mounted press. If I could only have one press it would be a mounted O-frame press made of cast iron.

I have three 30-30 rifles and two have microgroove barrels. You need good bullet fit and the correct alloy just like any other rifle in order for them to perform well. I also shoot cast in my 444 with microgroove barrel.

The past couple years have likely been the worst time to get into reloading. I've still been reloading, but am a little more picky about buying components. I knew there was going to be a run on reloading stuff going into the election cycle and bought what I thought I'd need for several years. As reasonable priced components pop up I buy them, and occasionally some overpriced stuff too. I would suggest you join or at least go look over at cast boolits and get the lyman reloading manual and read the front 115 pages or so that explain reloading. The vast majority of issues people ask about with reloading are covered in the front sections of reloading manuals.
 
#4 ·
The hand press will work. It is a bit slower to use.

If you have a bench available, get a press and set it up. The Lee Turret is a good first press.

Primers right now are a problem to find. Cheapest I have found is about $82.00 a thousand plus shipping and hazmat.

Bullets and powder are available but not cheap.

First thing, get a manual and study it.

Good luck.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Buy a copy of THE ABC's OF RELOADING by Dean Grennell and read it through thoroughly. Grennell tells you all the how's and why's, he never misses anything. The Lee manual and the Lyman manual are full of information you need, too. Get a simple single stage press to start. I've been loading on an RCBS Partner for 49 years. I wore one out after thirty-eight years and RCBS sent me a new one under lifetime warranty. Buy good quality dies and a scale. You'll need a shell trimmer, a must have. Go bare bones until you figure out all the fancier stuff. I use a Lee Ram Prime, it has excellent primer seating feel. Homemade powder dippers and loading block, good to go for the last half century.

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#6 ·
I have seen real good buys at gun shows lately on reloading presses and components. If there are any in your area check them out.
 
#8 ·
What ever you decide to go with, the most important thing is to obtain and READ a new reloading manual (Lee, Hornady, Lyman etc). Reloading can be very addicting as I am addicted to it. I would suggest getting a single stage press to start with (brand is your choice as most are very similar in design and performance) so you can concentrate on properly loaded ammunition and not be worried about volumes of completed products. Reloading is safe as long as you go by set procedures and practices. If you do it wrong you will know. At some point there is a good chance that you will make a mistake as I heve a few times. Fourtunatly I found my mistakes before I got to the firing line. Good luck and happy reloading!
 
#9 · (Edited)
I'm the odd man out here ... and that's good :)

Late in life I finally started reloading, and had it planned in one year increments:
1. Lee Classic Loaders (aka "whack-a-mole")
2. Lee Hand Press
3. Single Stage bench mounted
4. Turret Press

I did manage to force myself to stick with the "Classic Loaders" (.357 mag and 9mm) for the entire first year for the first 600-700 rounds, but I did learn some good brass handling and inspection habits.
The second year I bought the Lee Breech Lock Hand Press, several sets of dies, electronic scale, various necessary hand tools and a whole bunch of components.
The third through 11th year .... still don't want, or need to leave the hand press behind. I guess I'm so devoted to it that I bought another, for "back-up", several months ago.
I load .38spl, .357 mag, 9mm, .44mag, .44spl, .45auto and 30-30win. By some folk's standards, I shoot often (once or twice a week) but somewhat low volume (20-40 rounds per trip). I'm around 1200-1500 rounds per year - all loaded on the hand press. That includes the 30-30 being one of the more often exercised of the mix (along with 357,44 and 45). Since I batch load, I can fill in "free time" spells with taking care of the various incremental steps in reloading - it works very well for me.

As for the strange fear of shooting cast boolits in Marlin micro-groove ... tell that to my old 336. For several of the early years of my lengthy (cough, cough) re-loading career, the 30-30 got nothing but jacketed bullets and rifle powders. Then one of my local buddies had given up on casting and shooting for the 30-30 and gave be a huge batch of his (not quite perfect) cast boolits. Through various "enablers" on these danged shooting websites I got schooled on using pistol powders with the various cast 30-30 boolits and never looked back. For me and my 336, I make sure that the boolit minimum is at least .309 - preferably gas checked ..... but better yet .310 and gas checked. Just drag a dry bore snake through 2-3 times between every 5-10 rounds to get the fouling out before it gets squashed into the grooves. But, I do that with all other firearms anyway.

I shoot 95% cast boolits in everything I load, so I'm a bit unique in my neighborhood.

Yep, I'll keep the convenience of my hand press.


jd

edit to add: Whatever you do, do NOT forget to properly lube the 30-30 brass before trying to re-size .... and for over sized cast boolits be sure to properly expand the case neck (I use a .310 mandrel ball) and slightly bell the case mouth (I use old needle nosed plyers - lightly)
 
#10 ·
Thanks everyone for the info. I have the lee manual on its way to read before anything else. And I'll take your advice and join the cast bullet forum here as well. I'm hopeful that I can get back out to the range more often once I have read up more on everything. This is first steps right now.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I currently own 3 progressive presses, a single stage press, a Lee Turret Press and a Lee Hand Press. If I am loading under 20 rounds, or doing load development I will grab the hand press. For me the hand press is faster because I can bypass most of the setup that the other presses require. The RCBS single stage and the hand press are about equal for setup time, but for a small run, 20 rounds or less, I find the hand press more convenient.

I would definitely recommend the Lee Hand press as a press to someone just starting out, Especially if you are only loading a couple boxes a year for hunting and plinking.
 
#12 ·
A single stage press would be a good place to start for a press. I recommend the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Press. It is a very good press for the money. After you learn how to reload you can upgrade to another press if you need to. Get at least two reloading manuals. The Lee and Lyman reloading manuals are very good. Read them thoroughly. Only use published loads and avoid loads someone else says they may use in the internet unless it is within recommended loads from reliable publications. Even with components being scarce, they can still be found if you are diligent.
 
#13 ·
I began on a Hornady progressive press much to my 2 local mentors advising against it. They still are single stage users and have been for years. Having a local mentor is huge... especially with die setup. I spent my first year (off and on) with my press setting up the sizer decapper dies for multiple calibers as well as brass cleaning and storage. Getting to know my press and brass. Thousands of pieces of brass reworked. At that point the reloading manuals and videos began making some sense. Reread the manuals and rewatched the videos... more sunk in.

Dropping powder and seating bullets is an entirely new animal. More manual study and prep on powder weight for bullet type and weight... more mentoring on expander and seating die setup. Also practice with a kinetic Lee bullet puller. You will be disassembling dummy and live rounds a lot.

Once you finally complete a handful of live rounds and they seat in your test gauge and/ or chamber nicely and you test fire them... all the manuals advice and videos make a lot more sense... and then you are off and walking!

Your micrometer scale bullet puller and Wilson chamber gauges will be your well used best friends. Often 3 steps back and one step forward. Thats ok... mistakes is how we learn.

Only one primer type and powder on the bench. Keep a notebook with detailed notes on every production run...10 rounds or 100. Label your final rounds (plastic boxes, zip lock bags) with corresponding details from your journal.

Its a lifestyle and mindset change. Its an incredible feeling to harvest an animal with your rounds. Its freedom really.

This is not rocket science. But it requires planning care patience and time. I love it.
 
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#15 ·
Welcome to the world of reloading.
Do not be afraid of the internet, be wary and informed. Buying from reputable dealers like Midway, Sinclair International, Graf and Sons can get you components that many Mom & Pop shops cannot afford to stock. EBay is a good for both new and used equipment. I also support the local gun stores, especially the ones that handle reloading supplies. As already stated gun shows can be be a gold mine for presses, dies, measures and scales.
A word about used equipment...
---> Presses... It takes a lot of abuse to destroy a reloading press but there are some highly motivated Bubbas out there. The handle should move free but not have a lot of play in the ram. Rust would be #1, mods #2. Surface rust can usually be cleaned up. Some of the older presses had their own shell holders. Many can be adapted but others are a real pain. The old Herters presses are a real work horse but they take a special adapter to fit common holders by Lee, RCBS, Lyman and Hornady to name a few. I made an adapter for mine in about a 1/2 hour at work. Also make sure the press takes 7/8-14 dies. Some older presses took 5/8-18 but they are rare.
---> Dies... Dies should be rust free outside but more importantly inside. All parts included. No scratches in the die. Contact surfaces especially on full length sizers must be free of nicks, dings and scratches. the necks on seater dies require the same.
---> Scales... I prefer Balance beam scales that are dampened. No batteries required and not affected by power surges and they do not require a warm up period. I have a set of check weights too I consider them a must to verify a scale accuracy. Both of my scales were bought used and they perform good.
 
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#17 ·
I just don't understand the complaints about the Hand Press. I quit counting the number of rounds I loaded a few years ago at 12,000, on the same hand press. After gut surgery in 2015 and two brain surgeries in 2016, it's still not tiring me out. But, I'm only a young 68 years old ;)

jd
 
#18 ·
my advice is to check new prices then compare to ebay, my presses and dies and everything else are mostly from the 50s-60s as i am. they will outlast us all, and you will not see a progressive press on my tables. in 50 years of handloading i have never had a need for one. keep things simple,,,,,,
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#20 ·
Hey everyone. I've got a few questions about reloading. For backstory, I own a 336 in 30-30 and love it dearly, it is the only rifle I shoot with any regularity or did at least. In my particular zip code 30-30 ammo is unobtainium. My local stores have not seen it in more than a year and I hate buying online. So she hasn't gotten to stretch her legs because I do not want to run through my current stash until I can get more. To that end I have been considering getting into reloading. Specifically with the lee hand press. So to my first question.

1. Is the lee hand press worth it? I like the portable idea but is it that much more of a pain than a basic bench press?

2. Can you shoot basic cast lead i.e. wheel weights or will it gum up the micro grooves? I ask because I own and run a Blacksmiths shop and casting my own bullets appeals to that part of me. And or to the part that watched the Patriot at an impressionable age (watching Crowe melt the army men and cast his own ammo always stuck with me).

3. Lastly quite a few components seem to be scarce for reloading still. Is it worth thinking of reloading when primers and such are hard to get. I'm not thinking of getting into reloading to save money. I only think it might provide a more reliable stream of ammo so I can actually get out and shoot.

Thanks for any and all advice.
1. Go with a bench press if you are planning on loading more than 10 rounds.
2. No experience with cast as I only use jacketed bullets for rifle rounds.
3. Only you can determine whether reloading is worth your time and expense. Unless you are planning to reload hundreds of rounds or load custom ammo for personal use, then IMHO, it may not be worth it to you, to reload. But that would be your call.
You are correct in the fact that some components, ie primers and powder, are a little scarce right now. I reload for about +/- 14 calibers. 30 30 being one of them. Some calibers I load several thousand rounds per year, or used to with components being scarce now. And some only about a hundred rounds per year. Depending on caliber with pistol rounds being in the thousands and rifle rounds, typically no more than a hundred per year to sight in, test, and hunt with. If I used a different powder or bullet, then I would reload about 60 to 100 rounds for testing. The 5.56 was the exception, as I would typically load several hundred at a time to target shoot with. My point is, I invested money in equipment and dies many years ago because I knew I would be reloading quite a bit of ammo. Today I don't reload as much as I used too. And I also don't cast bullets which I used to back in the day.
So whatever you decide, always go with a bench press, you won't regret it. Good luck to you.
 
#21 ·
Single stage presses last nearly forever. Buy a used one. All they get is dirty and the discolored. It doesn't hurt them. The Lee press works well, but the cast iron ones are smoother. I've had mine 40 years +. I've had a RCBS Rockchucker and an RCBS RC. The RC is my favorite. It does everything I need it to do, including load 45-70 and form 7x57 cases out of 270 Win in one pass.

Also important is a sturdy reloading bench.
 
#22 ·
You can bend a handle though. When I started reloading I used a 30-30 whack a mole to build deer loads but found that I was eventually having difficulty chambering them in my ‘94 Winchester. My brass really needed to be full length sized. I moved out of state, the rifle got sold and when I got back into shooting again I started loading for .45-70s which whack a moled much better. But I eventually bought used Lyman ‘C’ press and then a used rcbs rockchucker. Sold the C kept the rcbs. To the op, find a used C or O press and save your hands. Where are you located?
 
#23 ·
Honestly--the Lee hand press is great for sizing and loading pistol cases like 38, 357,44,45 ACP but for a rifle not so good unless you are only loading a very small quantity. I use the hand press with only carbide dies so I can sit in front of the TV and just size and deprime my fired pistol cases----it works very well for that purpose. BTW--you still need to lube your cases even with a carbide die but can use a spray on type of lube. You will build up your forearms using that press !!
 
#25 ·
Why is the old original Lee Classic Loader (affectionally known as a "whack-a-mole" loader) being dwelt on? The OP was specifically asking about the Lee Breech Lock Hand Press. Not even close to the same tool as the "Classic Loader"

Just asking.


jd

edit to add: I'll post pictures if it will help clear up the controversy
 
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#27 · (Edited)
.
Why is the old original Lee Classic Loader (affectionally known as a "whack-a-mole" loader) being dwelt on? The OP was specifically asking about the Lee Breech Lock Hand Press. Not even close to the same tool as the "Classic Loader"
Simple thread drift, along with everyone was putting all the 'hand' loading tools into one category.

I was guilty of it myself.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Sorry for the thread drift. I had an idea of what the Lee Breech hand press is. A Lee version of the old Lyman 310 tool. When you get into the pool and can’t swim you go in the shallow end first, get your feet wet and decide if you want to go deeper or get out. These hand reloading tools are the shallow end of the pool. Most of us started with them but when the bug hit they got shelved and replaced with a real press. Hopefully the op will continue to go deeper into the pool.
 
#29 ·
Hey everyone. I've got a few questions about reloading. For backstory, I own a 336 in 30-30 and love it dearly, it is the only rifle I shoot with any regularity or did at least. In my particular zip code 30-30 ammo is unobtainium. My local stores have not seen it in more than a year and I hate buying online. So she hasn't gotten to stretch her legs because I do not want to run through my current stash until I can get more. To that end I have been considering getting into reloading. Specifically with the lee hand press. So to my first question.

1. Is the lee hand press worth it? I like the portable idea but is it that much more of a pain than a basic bench press?

2. Can you shoot basic cast lead i.e. wheel weights or will it gum up the micro grooves? I ask because I own and run a Blacksmiths shop and casting my own bullets appeals to that part of me. And or to the part that watched the Patriot at an impressionable age (watching Crowe melt the army men and cast his own ammo always stuck with me).

3. Lastly quite a few components seem to be scarce for reloading still. Is it worth thinking of reloading when primers and such are hard to get. I'm not thinking of getting into reloading to save money. I only think it might provide a more reliable stream of ammo so I can actually get out and shoot.

Thanks for any and all advice.
Me personally, I wouldn't shoot cast bullets unless I felt I needed for large bears. There are so many excellent copper plated bullets that do a bang up job. I've taken deer with 170 grain Hornady; 170 grain Speer; and I just loaded 50 170 grain Nosler Partitions. I've loaded some 160 grain Hornady rounds too, but have not shot a deer yet here in Montana with the partitions or 160 grain Hornady leverevolution... But, to each his own... P.S. Get a bench press...