I have used the citrus strip from walmart on laminate stocks and have also used the aircraft paint remover on laminated stocks with automotive finishes painted on, neither penetrated the stock enough to even worry about acting as a solvent on the glue between the layers of highly pressurized pieces of wood. As a matter of fact the laminate is compress so much it's very hard to get stain, dye, or paint to adhere or penetrate very much at all and will wipe off very easy with sand paper !!

Try the citrus strip first use a piece of coarse scotch brite to break the finish with or a piece of medium grit automotive paper, then wipe the citrus strip on let it soak and remove. Any pieces that were not stripped scuff the surface again and reapply citrus strip, this may take 3-4 times depending on finish used, just take your time and don't use a coarse paper that cuts into the wood or you will have a lot of sanding to do in order to remove those marks before you finish the stock. Again I have never had any problems with a laminate stock and the paint strippers just wipe the chemical on and use rubber gloves and safety glasses etc PPE

Tru Oil works outstanding on laminate stocks, however depending on color it can darken the stock, I use polycrylic by minwax on most of my laminated stocks now especially the blue or green colors as the tru oil darkens them and changed the color to a dull brownish...test a piece and see the inletting is a great place to test

Treat the laminate stock just like a regular stock you will not see any glue by sanding or working in your finish, laminate stocks are very easy to finish , they do not absorb the finish like a walnut stock, the color of the laminate may not play well with your choice of finish (tru oil for example) and may cause it to appear a different color....other than that treat laminate just like a normal wooden stock.

 

Thank you.

 

Laminated stock stripping and finish --------------------------

Mike,

I tricked out a RUGER 10/22 - 3 or so years back and because of the .920 barrel needed something other then the standard factory stock.

I found a used laminated stock and started from there. Fajen stock as I recall.

The stock was overly long with the short 16.25" barrel, so I cut off about 3" and added back an inch and a half of walnut for a forend tip.

Then the forend was overly bulky so I routed finger groves on both sides of the barrel.

This of course required that I strip and refinish the laminated stock.

I decided to take the short/easy way to a finish and chose as I recall, a satin rattle can finish.. Bad move, as if you apply too much of that finish, it takes on a cloudy appearance.

I could have lived with that, but over the first winter the stock started to get white splotches on it. NOT GOOD!

Hmmmmmm? Well, I again needed to strip and refinish.

I used as I recall something like ZipStrip with no problems. The stock stripped and sanded out just fine.

Then I applied TruOil for the second finish with no problem and the finish is adhering and lasting just fine.

I'll try to get a couple images attached. The first with the spray on finish and the second after the second refinish with the TruOil.

Go for it! I doubt you will have any problems.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

 

I'm no expert, but here's what I did



Well, it isn't a Marlin, but it has a laminated stock and i pretty much did just what you seem to be wanting to do.

So, I got this Feinwerkbau 601 RT, which is perfectly good function-wise, but the stock was in a very sad condition. Also it was ugly for my eye even if it was in mint condition. So, I decided I have pretty much nothing to lose.

I had never worked on a laminated stock before. Or any stock. And very little with wood in general... Anyway, I went on.

First I sanded off the chipped 30-odd old laquer with a small and pointy vibrating electric sander. I then proceeded to fine 220-grit sandpaper. Once I had that done, I had a nice, bare piece of furniture..

I then aqcuired some solvent-based stain (mahogany color-you can go darker by adding but it's difficult to get lighter) and applied generously with a paintbrush. Then immediately took a piece os 220-grit sandpaper and sanded the wet stain into the stock thus avoiding uneven staining.I wiped off the excess stain and repeated the procedure, forcing the stain into the stock, it took many repetitions because the laminate resists absorbing, but finally I reached the desired tone. I let it dry overnight and then gave it a light sanding and wiped off the dust. The result was just about the colour I wanted, but very dull and almost like a burned look.

Thought for a while if I should beewax it, but then decided to use cooked linoil (varnish). The first layers I laid with a combilation of varnish and (pine) turpentine, the dullness was immediately gone and the stock had a nice semi-matte sheen. I could have stopped there and just polished it a little, but instead I applied more varnish, this time thick and without any added turpentine, just smeared it generously all over the stock with a rag, applying some pressure, let it sit for a while, wiped off the excess linoil and repeated until I had a deep satin glow, the grains and layers forming nice patterns that could have been accentuated even more by continuing with the varnish or adding clear laqcuer, but I decided to stop there because that was just what I wanted.

If this iPad cooperates with me, I will edit and add some pictures. If it doesn't, I hope you catched the drill. Overall this operation took about three hours plus the night the stock dried after the staining.

 

Nice work fellas.:rock:

 

Thanks, I have been refinishing stocks for years but always more to learn, and some good ideas here.

Sorry about the wrong pic. It is one I refinished but a poor picture.

 

ScorpioFIN: Not related to the stock, but what's the gizmo attached to the scope? I've never seen anything like that.

Luisyamaha

 

That's a Premier custom reticule/booster. This is a (very rare) running target version of the FWB 601 and the premier unit has adjustable vertical lines (no horizontal lines in the sight picture at all) with dots in the middle, those dots can be adjusted to match the speed of the target as well as for tilt of the rifle, in running target the shooters tend to hold the rifle sightly tilted so they can keep their head straight. It also boosts the magnification of that Leupold M8 from 4X to 8X. The Leupold part of the scope also has a custom reticule; just a dot in the middle, which is zeroed by Leupold's own adjustments. Back in the day, Premier was kind of what AMG is to Mercedes, the scopes with Premier boosters were covered by the Leupold warranty.

An interesting rifle and equally interesting scope, the story behind the Leupold/Premier relationship is quite fascinating.

 

Thanks for the answer. Learn something new everyday!

Luisyamaha

 

No problem You should take a look at the Leupold/Premier story, I think you might find it interesting. I cannot remember any links just now, but the digging I did was interesting in itself and the story even more so as ot unfolded. I'm positive that you'll agree, if you have any interest in scopes history-wise.