When was yours made?

 

All the early Marlins used a varnish finish. But it's not as simple as just varnish, as the varnish used was only part of the process back then. After a varnish dip to seal the raw wood, they then used a hand rubbed oil over that to get a very fine smooth finish. I use Minn Wax Wipe On Poly to get a similar finish, and to get some of the Marlin reddish hues, I use Tapadera's N35 near the end for the final coat(s). It usually takes 8-12 coats *** on raw wood, but on an old gun with finish stripped, it only takes about 4 coats to get it looking proper.

 

Satin finish or gloss?

 

I used the satin wipe on poly for my old guns. A nice refinished shiny stock looks out of place on metal with patina!

 

The gun is a later model 93, most likely at the end of production in the 30's. The serial number is A1400, but I know that that doesn't mean a thing during that era.

 

I also use the satin finish, but it can still be a fairly high sheen once completed. I rub mine out with rottenstone once it's cured for a couple weeks. Then I rub it with Minn Wax paste, and buff it with a soft terrycloth towel. It can be a fairly high gloss once it's done, or not buffed as highly for more of a satin look.
This is satin *** on my engraved Ballard:

 

As hinted by others, unless a special order gun, most of the old gun companies used varnish, due to speed of application alone. Oil finishes took days and weeks.

I am gonna throw out something likely controversial, but more than one stock guy agrees, where their specialty are old guns. It goes back to what the goal of the work is. Too make it look just like it came from the factory? And in that case, most guys spend way way way too much time filling the grain, cause once again, even on guns like 21 Wins the grain rarely got filled except on perhaps the presentation class guns. Oil got used of course, especially in Europe, but the popular models and grades of American guns, were typically varnish.

Another thing is, an old gun the finish has shrunk from age, and often has open grain showing.

Every one has seen the early Wins with flaking finish. Thats cause they used a beeswax mix as a filler. I have no idea how they got it too stick this long either, but the wax filler is well documented.

If they are trying to produce a nice, but vintage looking gun, bluers have been known to take brown paper sack pieces, and knock off the blue on the high spots, to imitate some age.

Its often a bit like early factory engraving. If the engraving is perfect, its rarely factory. Those old boys worked on piece work. Duck often came out looking like chickens, and dogs may have looked closer to a coyote. Sheep often looked like some exotic pen raised critter.

Again, I am talking about the lower grades of factory patterns. Any that dont believe me, simply study some authentic early engraving some time.

But when a 100 year old gun is "too perfect" its like seeing a bent corner on a deck of cards used in a "friendly game" of stud. Someone in the game aint playing it straight.

A perfect finish on such a gun, is usually the first giveaway that its been redone in some aspect.

Whether or not the seller advises the buyer, is the key. And some have been known to forget.:biggrin:

 

Well, here is the inherent problem with mine: It (the wood) has already BEEN refinished by someone who did a ****ty job, i.e. runs, etc. They aren't really obvious but they are there and I'd like to do it back the way it is supposed to be.

You all are going to think I'm crazy, but I plan on sending the gun off next year to Turnbull to have it reblued and the case coloring redone. Yes I know the gun is not worth it. I know I'll have three times as much in it as it is worth. But it is a gift for my father. So the money isn't really an issue as the gun will never be sold. I might try and secure a nicer second model in a takedown or something to restore instead, but that is really dependent on how much I can get one for. The prices on gunbroker are outrageous for takedowns ($2k+), but if I can run across one locally that is nice and has more "collector value" I'll have it sent off instead.

 

Since you're going to have the gun refinished, I'd simply use Jasco Stripper and remove the present finish. Then give it a couple coats of ***, and not bother going crazy on the finish yet. Until it's seen by whoever does the restoration, you don't want to go too far.
Sent you a PM about another option.