Your pix are dark and not very good for evaluation purposes, but for whatever my opinion is worth I don't believe that gun is an original factory produced ADL; as the butt stock is either after-market, or after-market modified. The pistol grip cap treatment is certainly not in the factory style, and the pistol grip checking panels are not done in the ADL style (can't determine anything about the forearm from your pix). But for $395 a heck of a deal regardless whether the stock is factory work or not.

 

No expert on the issue, but a nice looking rifle you picked up from what I can see. Enjoy!

 

The stock above is from a 1959 vintage A-DL and not the best comparison, as 1949 vintage A-DL's were not shipped with Monte Carol stocks; but regardless of the year made, all A-DL's and SC's had identical checkered pistol grip panels. As you can see, the grip panels on your gun are different from those seen here on this original A-DL. A 1949 model 336 would not have had a capped pistol grip as does this '59 model (it was wood and plain finished); and although I'm not sure, the pistol grip on your gun appears to be capped. My personal thoughts are that the stock on this gun is original, to the gun but has had the original grip capped and has received some after-market checkering; but regardless, the shape/profile of the grip cap on your stock is not factory standard. Another difference is that the swivel stud in your stock is different from what would have been standard on a '49 model A-DL; the factory standard would have been a larger round base stud like that in the pic above and compatible with the now obsolete wider swivels common to those used on early Winchester and other period rifles. As regards the factory A-DL "XX" stamp placed on factory produced A-DL models, the second pic shows an example of the stamp you referenced.

And just so that everyone understands the nature of my post, my comments are in no way intended to be critical or derogatory of this gun or its new owner; but are instead intended to answer the original poster's questions, and to educate those who want to understand the important features/nuances that distinguish a particular model 336 from the others. As one who has paid dearly thru his wallet because of the simple fact that I had not done my homework and therefore could not/did not understand how to properly evaluate a gun; this is my effort to help others avoid the same mistakes and save those hard-earned dollars. In this case, the buyer did not over-pay and actually did well; he just didn't get a bargain on what he had hoped was an A-DL. Best Regards, Tom

 

i just got a 1959 336A-DL. barrel is marked 336A.
it does have the 2 X's on the tang when you remove the stock.
to me it looks like yours is a 336A and someone put some fine line checkering on the original wood stocks.
you still got a good deal man. here's pics of mine i just got...

 

you can check with "schtoolee" here on marlin owners.
he is the MARLIN MAN!

 

Anyway you look at it you got a nice shooter. Congrats.

 

Thank you for all of your responses. Just to point out a couple points of clarification, my 336A is a 1948, serial number is E9831, not a 1949. This would appear to make it a very early issue of the 336's. Also, the butt stock is serial numbered to the gun, so it is not an add-on. Of course the checkering could have been after-market, as pointed out, because I could see that the checkering is not what I have seen on the ADLs. I am attaching a pic of the forearm, which does appear to match the ADL style checkering - of course this could have been added as well (the forearm does not have a stamped serial number like the butt stock does).

The end cap is the odd part as well, that certainly appears to be added on.

I apologize for the poor quality photo's, these are taken from the auction site where I bought the gun, the sad part is, they did a simply horrendous job packing it and when UPS delivered it to my FFL, the butt plate was broken and the butt stock had large chunk broken off - see pics. My FFL guy recovered about a dozen or more "puzzle pieces" that I have in a baggy, awaiting much patience, glue, clamps, etc, etc... I have claim in to both UPS and the auction house and I look to recover $200 for damages, which I negotiated and have been told by the auction house is

reasonable. That will put me out about $180 for this otherwise pristine 336A, but will require more than a few hours of restoration work this fall (under my father's tutelage, of course!)

 

I agree with SB---that is not an original Marlin factory butt stock or possibly one that has been modified extensively (maybe something from the Marlin Custom shop?). I have a 1949 336A 32 WSP and am very familiar with what Marlin was producing in the late 1940s/early 1950s. The pistol grip shape of 336A/ADL butt stocks were different than what you have on your rifle during the early years of Model 336 production. They also didn't have the pistol grip cap back then as SB previously stated. All that being said--that is still one heck of a good lookin' Marlin! :tee:

 

How disheartening it is to receive a "new" gun with shipping damage, as it appears this gun was dropped on it's butt end; but in all honesty it appears to me that the shipper failed to pad the gun properly when it was packed for shipping. I've had similar experiences, and each incident left me ticked to no end as it was clear the damage could have been avoided by simply taking a little extra time to properly pack the piece!
In looking at your pics, I don't know if your butt plate is salvageable; but I had a recent similar experience with an LC Smith shotgun butt plate, and below are pics that show what the stock maker did in effecting a repair using steel pins inletted

into the plate and epoxy glue. Perhaps these pics will aide someone who faces a similar problem in the future; and best of luck with your damaged stock, as it will be a difficult job to completely hide the repairs that will be required.

 

Butt plate repair pics continued.

 

These pics illustrate a butt plate repair done on a Syracuse Arms shotgun in which the lower broken piece had been nailed on at some point in the past 100 plus years. This plate repair is not completely finished, as the glue visible in the repaired areas still remains to be color matched; and chipped edges touched up, which restoration work will be done in conjunction with the stock wood restoration process. Again, just posted for ideas as to how some of these old butt plates can be repaired.

 

Mcrcshooter. 1948 was the first year of the 336 and first year waffle top. Congrats on a nice find. My last 2 guns had damage from shipping as well. You just want to beat them over the head with said gun when you get it that way. It just sucks.
For $395, you did very well. Fix the stock and shoot the heck out of it!!!
In 1948, Marlin made the A in 30-30 and 32 Spc. 1950 they brought out the 35 Rem.

Hayden.

 

Thank you SB for the great information. Fortunately, my brother just dropped off a period correct butt plate (no marlin logo) that he just happened to have! As exciting as using pins and epoxy sounds, I hope to avoid it. I'll have enough work to do getting all the damaged wood back into place :hmmmm:

The sad part is, all they needed was a bit more newspaper and bubble wrap and we'd never be having this discussion - and I agree, it was the seller's fault, not the delivery service!

 

Very nice. Sad that they didn't protect it better for shipping.

 

Your 48 looks a lot like my 49 that I know wears the original stock because my great grandfather ordered it this way.

 

Another option would be to cut stock down and put a recoil pad on it that may be easier. The collector value of the stock has already been destroyed so you won't hurt it anymore by doing it. Widow

 

I ship guns with 2 piece stocks in separate packages. Medium priority triangular USPS medium tube and a medium box, all for about $22. Doesn't scream 'GUN!' 'STEAL ME!' while in transit. Haven't broken a stock yet! AC

 

I have received rifles and compound bows so POORLY packaged I could not believe they were not destroyed in transit.

Last two rifles I shipped were bubble wrapped, placed in NEW $16-$20 cheap gun cases (Cabelas), then cases taped PACKED INSIDE A CARDBOARD BOX, all taped with plenty of good shipping tape. Never scrimp on tape - 'tape is cheap'!

I tell the buyer "It may take some doing to unwrap your prize..."

 

Agree with above ! When I ship a gun, bow or anything I want to protect, I pack it assuming the people handling it during shipping are going to purposely try to destroy it. Makes packing a contest to foil the shipping gorillas.