I just made some 6gr loads of Titegroup in my Marlin 1893 in 38-55 as well! I used 245gr Missouri Bullet hardcast slugs. They averaged right on 1002fps. And they shot just fine, so I'm sold on that one haha.

 

DEP, no leading so far. I'm shooting a 50/50 mix of RMR and range scrap, pencil test shows 12-15 usually but current batch is only 10 BNH. I was thinking I may try a .378 sizer if the accuracy isn't what I want. No chambering issues with the .379.
The rifle came with a Lyman 17 front sight but the post is so narrow I can barely see it, sight insert set ordered and waiting for it to come in. I'll do more load tests then.

I just made some 6gr loads of Titegroup in my Marlin 1893 in 38-55 as well! I used 245gr Missouri Bullet hardcast slugs. They averaged right on 1002fps. And they shot just fine, so I'm sold on that one haha.

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I've read of people going up to 9.0gr Titegroup, think I'll be upping that 1 a little bit.
Any idea on how much Unique/BE-86 these things run? I'm not seeing any data on those.

 

I always cast for my Marlin CB in 38 55. Used softer alloys than commercial hard cast bullets. The old timers used tin lead alloys of 1 to 20 to 1 to 40. Sometimes 1 to 16 but likely not in a 38 55. Little softer than the hardcast but would slug to the bore if undersized. My BIL had a Uberti but it was a actual 380 bore. The JES conversion would be more flexible.
Looks like it is shooting well.

DEP

 

My Ruger No. 3 in 38-55 likes the following with 250-280 grain cast bullets; velocities are between 1150 and 1400 fps.
Note that these are not recommended loads and are safe in my rifle only!

9.5 - Unique
16.5 - H4227
17.0 - H110
20.0 - Reloder 7

SR4759 was the most accurate, but that's been out of production for a long time.


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My Ruger No. 3 in 38-55 likes the following with 250-280 grain cast bullets; velocities are between 1150 and 1400 fps.
Note that these are not recommended loads and are safe in my rifle only!

9.5 - Unique
16.5 - H4227
17.0 - H110
20.0 - Reloder 7

SR4759 was the most accurate, but that's been out of production for a long time.


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Never thought about H110
I have played with some RL-7, but only with a 243gr pill.
Here's a Unique target, I'm pretty sure this was only 55-60 yds.

RP

 

I shoot the Lee boolit, homemade loob and 18 grs 2400. No need to change a thing. I've taken deer and turkeys with this load. My results are very similar to yours from my Marlin Cowboy.

 

Never thought about H110...

And before some yayhoos post about H110 can't be used in reduced loads - that may be true for some handguns, but a great many shooters have used that powder in less-than-full power loads in rifles for decades without problems. Even Hodgdon recommends it for some reduced rifle loads - see below. So keep your whining quiet.

 

I wasn't bashing or whining, I just hadn't thought about it.
As to the last 2, I don't own anything in either.
I have been playing with some Blue dot in the 444 with a cast bullet.
Another powder that usually isn't referred to in reduced loads either...

I just recently added 900 255 gr bullets to the inventory, I will give it a try.

RP

 

The NOE Ranchdog bullets, I PCd the GC version so I'd know which were what when loaded. Traditional handmade Ben's Red and Tacky with a little bar chain oil added to loosen it
up on the PB version.

 

I wasn't bashing or whining, I just hadn't thought about it….

No no, my comment wasn’t directed at you! I’ve just seen too many times when light loads of H110/W296 are posted, some yayhoo will scold the poster with an ignorant rant about how it will blow up your gun if you load it to low pressure. The data posted was an example of safe, reduced loads of the powder. My post was just an attempt to forstall such silliness from others.


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Well I'm bitten by the bug. Just shipped a 20" barreled 336 off to JES, I picked it up a couple of years ago parts priced. The chamber was ringed, over pressured somehow. Probably a double charge of pistol powder knowing who I bought it from.
Found a 24" barrel on evilBay for replacement. This is going to be interesting. JES said he had some ideas about mounting the forearm, would be different than the 20" barrel. Not sure what that entails.
Anyone ever upgrade from 20" to 24" barrel?

 

…Just shipped a 20" barreled 336 off to JES, I picked it up a couple of years ago parts priced. The chamber was ringed, over pressured somehow. Probably a double charge of pistol powder knowing who I bought it from…

More likely the use of an over powder wad tamped down hard on the powder, that is a major source of chamber ringing. An overpressured load will not usually cause such localized chamber damage. But the good news is it provided you with a cheap donor rifle!



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I ringed a barrel by having too much oil in it.

 

I haven't shot any of these yet. Bullet on the left is the MP HP GC 265gr. Middle is the NOE Ranchdog 235gr GC. Bullet on the right is the 235gr Ranchdog PB.
I'm expecting a lot of the MP bullet for longer range. Thinking I'll name them yellow jackets and green hornets.

 

Gotta love 1885s and 38-55s. My CB likes 10gr of Trail Boss with a 240gr RNFP.

 

A curiosity question - are the reloaders here using long or short cases? Or experimenting with either, and finding a difference?
I have a couple that have been in the gun-safe far too long.
A Hi-wall that I'd like to get going for BPCR Silhouette (500 mtr), and a 336CB for Lever-action Silhouette (200 mtr)

 

You can use either without any real difference in performance. I won’t claim any absolutes, but most modern straight wall chambering are on the long side. I use the long case for my CB. I also shoot BPCR silhouette. I don’t shoot the 38-55 but the competitors I have shot with that used 38-55 all used the longer case.

 

Thanks.
49er

 

I have some of both, but only use the long. As it was what the previous owner used, and seeing how he shared a couple of his favorite loads with me, I thought it better to use the same brass.
I did gift 30+ pieces of short brass to a friend that uses it only in his Henry rifle.
My 38-55 is a Marlin Cowboy.

RP

 

My Uberti per JES is set up for the shorter brass as will the Marlin 336 be when they get through with it. These are rebored and rechambered rifles. I have no experience with any others.
Hoping to get to the range tomorrow for more testing. My Athlon Rangemaster chronograph came in today.

 

Looking forward to a report on the Athlon.
Several of my colleagues use Garmin, but nobody yet has an Athlon, nor the latest iteration of the LabRadar.

 

I still haven't figured out how to connect to the app on my phone and download the data. There's not a lot of instructions that come with the unit either.

 

If it's of any help, the Garmin connects as follows - Bluetooth pairing. The Athlon is probably very similar..
I'll assume (dangerous) that you are using an Android device.

You have to download and install the app on your 'phone. Sorry, I've got no idea what the Athlon app is called. Your (limited instruction may say what it is.
1) Turn the Athlon ON.
2) your 'phone needs to be ON. Go to Settings
3) Select Connections.
4) Select Bluetooth ON.
The two units need to be reasonably close together.
5) Somewhere on the 'Home' screen of the Athlon, you should see (via the Bluetooth connection) that a connection is possible to the 'phone.
6) IIRC, you now see a list of (possible) paired devices. Select Athlon, and at the top of the screen will be an icon that's something like a turning circle. That's the icon to 'Synchronize' (pair) the device.

Clear as mud? Maybe that'll help?
More than that I can't do.
Is there a support 'phone number, perhaps?

 

The long brass issue is a result of Starline manufacturing fo singleshots. They even had a write up about them. The short brass is the SAAMI standard for modern chambers.
When I bought my CB it came with a bunch of Winchester brass. You could buy that brass at thst time. A 377 bore was considered the standard by SAAMI. I cast my own from the Lee mold and got adequate 100 yard accuracy with a Williams receiver sight and a green fiber optic sight . I wanted to use the rifle for hunting. Used re7 and a little hotter loads than target shooters used and had good accuracy. Even used Barnes OS J bullets. They are copper jacketed with a pure lead core. 375 diameter. They likely slugged to bore with the hotter charge.
Also got good accuracy with the Lyman 265 gr mold that threw bullets weighing 280 with my alloy. That mold tends to throw slightly smaller diameter bullets as it was designed around the 375 H&H.
Target shooting is another game as my hunting loads would likely be a bit hard on the shoulders over a full course. I went to the 38 55 as I had a Marlin CB in 45 70. Could see no reason to hunt deer with the 45 70 when the 38 55 was plenty adequate.

DEP

 

So I fire formed some 30-30 cases back to 38-55 but they're too short for a proper crimp. Will a .375 Winchester crimp die work on these shorter cases?

 

My 38-55 crimp die says 375 win on it. Do not know if it will work on extra short brass. When i got my CB i was using short brass as that was all I could find. I bought an old box of Winchester and it was actually long brass. It shot more accurate than the shorter stuff. I then acquired some long brass from Star-line and have not looked back. Ill send you a pm on some shorter win brass i no longer have a need for.

 

Are you Fire forming for any particular reason? Only asking because both lengths of brass appear to be available from Starline?

 

I have ~400 pieces of 30-30 brass and the 30-30 barrel is going away to make my 336 into 38-55.
My last trip to the range I fired over 200 rounds and this is just in the single shot Uberti. I purchased 250 pieces of brass and 40 pieces came with the Uberti but I can see the usage going up. Ordered a Accurate 150gr mold earlier this week to try some economy with the lever action.

 

Congrats on a fine rifle and all the testing you are doing. I looked at one of the Ubertis for a long time and also considered a Shiloh in one just never did pull the trigger on one. But I do like my Marlin 336 and I have a Henry. Im also using the shorter brass

 

23gn of IMR in my 1915 Marlin 1893

 

Sorry got all excited,that would be IMR4198