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New .35 owner here:

3.3K views 30 replies 21 participants last post by  mogwai  
#1 ·
I've been reading this forum without an account for the last several days since I got my rifle and have been trying to learn all I can about it. Decided to register so I can ask some questions and learn.

If my understanding is correct, mine was born in 1980 since the serial # begins with 20.
Based on what I know of its history, it hasnt had a box of shells fired through it since bought new and has never killed anything. On top of that, I got it for a song.

Here are a few pics.

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Im very anxious to take a deer with her this upcoming season in TN.

One question to start:
I've seen people writing that they have a model "SC" or "C" etc. How do I find out which model mine is?
Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to MO Miller,

One thing you'll learn quickly is marlinese if you hang here long.

Your correct, rifle was born on 1980, its a 336. C stands for "carbine" which is what you have there, (can tell by the full length mag tube) older models can have RC too (regular carbine)

SC is sporting carbine short mag tube (not full length) and "sometimes longer barrel depending model and year of manufacture.

Hope you get your deer.


Maddog444
 
#3 ·
Welcome from E. Tennessee - Nice rifle too!
 
#4 ·
I believe '69 was the last year they stamped the barrels with "RC" and for a period (your rifle included) they just stamped them 336.
You know it's a "C" by the 20" Barrel & walnut stocks (and as maddog said the full length magtube). C & RC models are the same.


Welcome to MO's......that rifle looks mint...excellent round!
 
#7 ·
Hey guys,
Thanks for the warm welcome and the info. So it's a "C", got it.

As for it being mint, not quite.

Actually there are few small dings/scratches in the wood, but Im not worried about that. What I am worried about are few tiny little rust spots, on the action, lever and barrel.

I've been told to work the rust off with 000 steel wool and cold blue the affected area. Is this sound advice? Im not worried about perfect looks (it's a hunting gun after all) but I do want it to remain protected from the elements.
 
#8 ·
Hello Miller & Welcome to Marlin Owners from Arkansas. mighty fine rifle you have but for the rust, use 0000 steel wool & a little oil instead of 000 steel wool. it's just a little finer & that should take care of the rust
 
#9 ·
If you haven't played with the 35, you are in for a very pleasant suprise. The old girl kills much better than what the "experts" say it will, cause it doesn't have enough "foot pounds" of energy for all the new boys. Nice score on the 35. DP
 
#10 ·
Nice score on the old 35. Looks like you got a real nice one there. Start picking up your ammo. I like the ole 200 gr. remington core loc in my 35
 
#14 ·
You have a nice gun, but horrendous scope mounts. The first thing you need to do is get rid of the see-through mounts. No respectable 336 in 35 Remington would be caught in the field wearing those mounts. Probably why the poor thing has never been taken out in the field and hasn't killed anything! ;D

I'd also lose the cheap Bushnell scope, and go with a nice 2-7 power scope, mounted low. A Nikon Prostaff, Bushnell Elite, Redfield Revolution, or one of the various flavors of Leupold (if you want to pay more, but not really get more) will work just great.
 
#16 ·
Nice rifle and you got it for a song. We are all wishing we had found it.

Halwg is correct you have to get rid of the scope mount poor thing has been hiding in some one closet not wanting to come out. ;D ;D ;D

There are a lot of sight options search this sight to see all of them, Skinner Ghost Ring and front post, Scout Scope and a fixed 4X is hard to beat. I had a Weaver 1.5 to 3 on mine for years.

Don't know if you hand load but if you do or are thinking about it the 35 Rem is one of the best cartridges for rolling your own. You can just make it better.

Congratulations and welcome.

Kevin
 
#18 ·
Sorry guys, I am a newb here too. My gun has the exact type of scope mount. It seems to do the job for me. Is the more of "look" issue here? I am just curious.
Partly. I like them. But mostly I never would have used one until I found out how many here won't use them. Now, I want to do a build with see-thrus, a ramline, and a big honkin' leather cobra style sling.
 
#19 ·
Halwg said:
You have a nice gun, but horrendous scope mounts. The first thing you need to do is get rid of the see-through mounts. No respectable 336 in 35 Remington would be caught in the field wearing those mounts. Probably why the poor thing has never been taken out in the field and hasn't killed anything!
This seemed to be the consensus in my forum searches.
Because this isn't really a long range gun, I dont really see the need for spending big on optics.

I looked into those skinner sights a while back, but I dont know...
Seems like I could get away with a small red dot scope, but I dont typically see them on rifles.
 
#20 ·
Welcome to Marlin Owners!

Two things negative on the see thrus: the scope is mounted too high and will not let you plant your cheek firmly on the stock and see straight through the scope. Second, the scope is too high and plays havoc with the trajectory of the bullet for the distance fired. Sighted in at 50 or 100 yards the projectile must rise too high to intersect the cross hair and then come down to the target. Mounting it low as Hal suggested helps the projectile travel flatter based on what you see in the scope. The higher the scope is mounted the higher the projectile will travel in between your sight in distance.
 
#21 ·
This seemed to be the consensus in my forum searches.
Because this isn't really a long range gun, I dont really see the need for spending big on optics.

I looked into those skinner sights a while back, but I dont know...
Seems like I could get away with a small red dot scope, but I dont typically see them on rifles.
This is one of those situations where you just have to decide what works best for your shooting and/or hunting style. Nothing else matters.
 
#22 ·
FredT said:
Welcome to Marlin Owners!

Two things negative on the see thrus: the scope is mounted too high and will not let you plant your cheek firmly on the stock and see straight through the scope. Second, the scope is too high and plays havoc with the trajectory of the bullet for the distance fired. Sighted in at 50 or 100 yards the projectile must rise too high to intersect the cross hair and then come down to the target. Mounting it low as Hal suggested helps the projectile travel flatter based on what you see in the scope. The higher the scope is mounted the higher the projectile will travel in between your sight in distance.
???
The bullet will travel its normal trajectory and hit the barrel's point of aim regardless of where the scope is mounted.
I understand that high mounts make it difficult to achieve proper stock weld (for most faces), but they will not affect how the projectile actually travels.
Surely Im misunderstanding you.
 
#23 ·
When I got both my .30-30 & my .35, they had cheap 3x9 scopes mounted on Holden Iron-Sighter mounts which now resides in my junk spare parts box if anyone wants 'em
 
#24 ·
Well I guess they do work for some folks. Personally I like things simple.
I can find a target pretty quick and get on it with a 2-3x scope faster than I can decide to look at scope or not (with see throughs) and then find said target under scope and inside the rings, focus on lining up sights on that target, and finally shoot.
Then there are the other issues of the heighth of the scope above the bore in regards to the trajectory and leverage on the scope with harder recoiling rifles.
 
#25 ·
Okay, two more questions:

1. Where can I buy replacement screws for the top of the action where the scope mounts? The ones that held the scope mounts on are too long.

2. Any thoughts on the skinner express? Will I need to purchase a front site as well with one of those?

Thanks again!
 
#26 ·
You will most likely need a taller front sight, for a receiver sight.