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Muzzle brake

30K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  Jeeper44mag  
#1 ·
Is it worth while to put a muzzle brake on a 1895/45-70?
 
#2 ·
IMHO, with MB on big bores, you'll achieve a lot more noise than recoil reduction.

If you're looking to reduce recoil, nothing beats weight to soak up recoil and add a good magnum recoil pad.

That said, welcome to Marlin Owners.

Jack
 
#4 ·
A muzzle brake only makes the sound louder. I see no use for spending money on one, unless you really want one.
(Same applies for painting your rifle some outlandish color.)

At 45/70 velocities the benefit of a muzzle brake is negligible. Save your money,
Money is better spent buying something like a good Skinner Sight, or having a competent gunsmith do an action job on the rifle.
 
#5 ·
Welcome from SW Ohio.

Muzzle brakes work by redirecting the propellant gases. The higher the pressure, the better they work. 45-70s work at about 1/2 the pressure of the bottle neck magnums. There is little gain in controllability/recoil reduction and big gains in noise.

And I'll say it for everyone else... The 45-70 and a heavy bullet don't need speed to be deadly. At 1400 fps it will kill anything in North America.
 
#8 ·
While I'm a firm believer in muzzle breaks and recoil reduction, I believe firmly in what HIKayaker says with the difference and effectiveness depending on velocity levels. I have the ported JM and I'd have to shoot it next to a non ported one to see if I could feel a difference. You can shooter smaller projectiles and greatly reduce the recoil that the shooter feels; or you can load them down with your preferred bullet style. 45/70 is very versatile in it's range of projectiles.

One of the best options you can do if the recoil seems to be too much is look into a good recoil pad. I've only used the Pachmeyer Decelerator pads on my rifles but there are others that could be better from what I've read; Kickeeze and Limbsaver. Other option is to look at the ammunition options and find a smaller projectile. The Hornady loads with the 325gr have always seemed a lot more mild and enjoyable to shoot. Reloading is a saving grace in options but there is plenty of factory ammo that you can shop around for and detail to your needs.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for all the input. I am going to buy a Marlin 45/70 very soon. I had a muzzle brake installed on my Ruger American in 300 Win Mag and it reduced the recoil at least 50%. I did suspect however that a muzzle brake on the 45/70 would not be worth while. I haven't shot the 45/70, it's new to me. I am a new member and so far this seems to be a very friendly forum, thanks again.
 
#11 ·
#13 · (Edited)
Thanks for the nice words. I was sorta skeptical when Mic first suggested it as he was customizing my Trapper, but became a believer when trying it on and off and on again. Both blast and recoil is reduced, so I had him thread my Trapper’s bigger brother and switch to either now.



Like I said, some sort of rocket science design.

Ray
 
#14 ·
I bought the 45/70 in an auction on Gunbroker.com. It will ship tomorrow to my FFL dealer in California. Ten days after that I can pick it up. I have a few questions. What is the jm stamped on the barrel ? The gun already has a older 3 x 9 Simmons scope. I want to replace it with something newer. What would be the optimum power for a 45/70 ? As I get older I am not as accurate with iron sights as I used to be. What is the effective range of the 45/70 ? What is the best weight cartridge ? Any help I can get will be appreciated. 45/70 is new to me. Thanks
 
#15 ·
Congrats on your new acquisition, but your questions sound like the subject for a new thread? I would first like to know what type of hunting/shooting you wish to set up your new/used levergun for?

Ray
 
#21 ·
Agree with Jack,

Anyone within 10 feet of the muzzle on the firing line will be looking at you. Let's just say the good old side eye. The blast will cause them to flench, jerk, or just push them off target.

If you shoot prone, expect all spent cases on the ground in front and side to side to be cleared.
 
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#22 ·
Köszönöm a szép szavakat. Kicsit szkeptikus voltam, amikor Mic először javasolta, amikor testre szabta a Trapperemet, de hithűvé váltam, amikor fel- és ki- és újra felpróbálta. Mind a robbanás, mind a visszarúgás csökkent, ezért megkértem, hogy befűzze Trapper bátyámat, és most váltson bármelyikre.

[MELLÉKELT] 787381 [/CSATLAKOZÁS] [MELLÉKELT] 787383 [/csatolás]

Mint mondtam, valamiféle rakétatudományi tervezés.

Kedves barátom!
Ezt a szájkosarat hol lehet beszerezni??? Imádom ezt a darabot! Szükségem van egy marlin 1895 sötét sorozatom 45-70! Köszönöm!
[/IDÉZET]
 
#23 ·
FWIW, a typical GOOD (high performance) muzzle brake will reduce felt recoil by ~40-65%. Especially with Magnum loads in light rifles (think .300 win mag or 7mm mag in a pencil barrel hunting rifle). I've got a Jerry Miculek model on a .223/5.56, and a Ross muzzle brake on my .308. Both cut the recoil roughly in half. The muzzle blast (noise & wind) on either side is.... unpleasant. You will be very unpopular with any adjacent shooters. Immediately behind the rifle, no noticeable difference in noise IMO.

As mentioned above, it's less effective on slower heavier bullets (like in a .45-70), but even just 40% recoil reduction is huge. Add a good recoil pad (limbsaver, etc), and you're set.

My 1895 is one of the models with factory porting, but it's so (relatively) little porting, that all it really does is reduce muzzle jump (which is nice, but doesn't tame recoil much... maybe 10%).

Having said all that, with just a good recoil pad like the Limbsaver on mine, shooting Hornadys LeverEvolution 325 gainers results in more of a good "push" than a serious violent impact. I can easily go through an entire box without an aching shoulder the next morning (only my wallet feels the pain 🤣). Just make sure you have your scope set for maximum eye relief. You do NOT want to park your face too close to the scope!

High performance 400+ grainers (Garrett, Buffalo Bore) are another thing entirely though. 😬 LOL

Luis