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Model 1893 in .25-36

6.5K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  northmn  
#1 ·
I'm looking to possibly add a .25-36 to my collection. What can others here tell me about it.
It's in ~80% condition. You can still see the case coloring and bore is bright and sharp. (I wouldn't consider it otherwise, I WILL shoot it.)
Thanks...
 
#3 ·
Owned one for many years.Hunted once with it and took a Doe within 15 mins of being in the woods.Ammo not made since the 20's and I wouldnt fire ammo that old.I used new 25-35 brass with Hornady .257 117gr RN bullets.The 25-35 is slightly short but works fine.If you want full length you can use 32-40 or 38-55 brass and neck it down.You would also have to purchase the much more expensive 25-36 die set.If you search here in this section you should find an informative thread on this subject.Good luck!
 
#5 ·
Nice find!! I saw two sets of dies at a gun show a while back, I should have bought them!!:shot:
I would assume that case can also be made from .30-30 brass.
Buffalo has dies. Reloading Supplies|Buffalo Arms Company
Correct,the cases can be made from 30-30,they will be slightly short,but usable.
The 1893 action was made for the 30-30 size case head and they were made in 25-36,30-30,32 HPS(Special),32-40 and 38-55.
 
#6 ·
Consider making the cases from 38-55 if they are short out of the 30-30. May require some annealing but the length will be there. Starline brass might be the best as it is thinner necked than the Winchester. There were a few threads about it a while back if you want to go back a few pages. Cartridges of the World mention it and claims that it is not the same as the 25-35 Winchester in that it was only loaded to about 1800 fps or so and should not be hot-rodded. As I ahve not used it I would suggest going back and looking up those articles as the users were more experienced with it.

DEP
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the replies. I was/will use .25-35 brass and dies. Probably have to make brass from .30/30. There is a box of .25-35 that goes with sale.
I wasn't sure I wanted it. NOW I DO !!!

Anyone who has or knows where there is a set of .25-36 dies for sale let me know. Ditto brass. I fully intend to get a suitable set of molds to cast for it in the ~1,800fps range. It is drilled and tapped for a tang sight which I will put on it...
Again, thanks for the responses.
 
#8 · (Edited)
CH4D Tool & Die make an excellent set of dies in 25-36 Marlin Dies .
I also have an 1893 Marlin in 25-36, and it is one of my favorite rifles. I made my brass by using well lubed 32-40 brass and running them in to the FL sizing die. I did anneal the necks before resizing. Very little effort required and the brass came out perfect. I also use the 117 RN Hornady bullets and cut a new cannelure in them using a tool also made by CH4D. It's a labor of love to load them, but man oh man, the result is easily worth the effort. If I do my part, I can shoot 1.5 MOA at 200 meters. I have used it several times in Cowboy Lever Action silhouette matches. You will ring a ram occasionally, but even my 38-55 rings one every now and then. Good luck with it, I am sure you will like it.
 
#10 · (Edited)
After looking over the old postings, and checking approx. values on GB, I GOT IT !!
It's got a low "appearing" serial #. A32X. Not sure if it's really old, or a newer serial # series.

I probably paid too much for it, but it's decent looking. I brought it home and cleaned it up. Rifling is sharp and bright. A little dinging around the muzzle, but crown of rifling is good. I got a LOT of crud out of it, and with a bit of oil, the reciever looks a little bit better. (I plan on adding some pic's later. Patience, please. I've never posted pics of my guns.).

I also got a box of .25-35win. Paid too much for it too, but, it mostly went "bang". Out of 14rds (Old UMC production), 2 were duds. I pulled the bullets and reprimed and reloaded it. Fired that time.

The cases held 23.0gr of what looks like IMR3031. I loaded some 117gr Hornady RN (got several boxes of old stock I've bought over the years for my .257Robt and later, a .257wby.
Initial firing revealed that the front sight is way, way too short. It's obviously been replaced with a Marbles Sheard .260" tall sight. I replaced it with a Marbles .343" and it brought down the impact to about 6" high at 50yds. My calculations are that a .410 will bring it down to under the front sight, so I've ordered some more sights.

I did get one 1.5" 3-shot group with it at 50yds with 21.0gr of IMR3031. After several loadings, the brass starting getting "tight" in the chamber with 23.0. Accuracy is all I could have hoped for.(decent). I've ordered a 120gr RCBS mold, gas-checks, and .258" sizer/lube die. Also, a set of .25-35 dies. I've got hundreds of ofb .30/30 in boxes, so 50-100 cases should be pretty easy in short order... (btw; I was using .257Robt dies to partially size necks and seating die to seat bullets for ammo I've loaded/shot. Only ~1/4" of neck was sized, but they worked... I tried sizing down the case bases with a .30/30 die with decapper removed but it was of marginal use.

Question..... The tang is drilled and tapped for a tang sight. The holes are ~1.10" on centers. Just like some of the 1893's I've seen on Gunbroker for sale. Anyone know which sight/base is correct for this application ?

Also; where are there some .32-40 and .38-55 brass for sale.
I did find some .25-36Marlin dies, but they're pricey. May go that route later...
Anyone got a load recommendation(s) ??? Charge weights for Acc5744, SR4759, #2400, and LVR ?

I've been looking for a good, clean, decently priced Savage M99 in .250 or .25-35 for years. All three of those don't go together, though. Turned down several "dogs" in .250. Never seen one in .25-35...
 
#14 ·
Tang is roll engraved 1893 but it's very thin. Can't read the lower portion of the lettering. Only other numbers on reciever is A324 on bottom metal in front of the magazine tube. Otherwise, I don't think it ever had a serial number. 25 - 36 M is marked on the barrel. Spacing to show approximate spacing of numbers. It is drilled and tapped for tang sight on tang, and Hepburn sight on top of reciever. Inside the reciever, the case finish is still prominent and wear on inside is light. Action is smooth as butter now that I've cleaned and lubricated it.

Anyone on Tang sight suggestions ? I've looked at the ones at Brownells, but not too sure of the hole spacing (Marbles).
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've found the correct Marble's tang sight. $127.00 plus shipping from MidwayUSA. Same as sight for M1894.

I've since received a set of .25-35 dies and a RCBS 120gr FNGC mold. It's become obvious that the mold is not correct for the caliber/rifle-action.
I've formed ~50 cases to go along with a box of .25-35 factory ammo. I've fired 16 of the .25-35wcf. They did fine, but had two misfires due to deteriorated primers and powder. (obvious from corrosion on exterior of ammo). Dumping powder, repriming and replacing powder gave positive ignition and power).

Shooting the 117gr Hornady RNSpts over 21.0gr of IMR3031 has given some excellent groups. Shooting from a supported standing position I was able to get some groups under 2" (3-shots) at 50yds with groups centered. Dropping to 17.5gr IMR3031 showed a slight loss of precision, but placed groups under the front bead. I've now got a 0.375"x.531" Marbles front bead, but have ordered a .410x.340 which will more closely approximate a factory original front sight.

Attempts with the RCBS mold were not so "happy". I did get so-so accuracy over 17.5gr IMR3031, but loaded to eject over 7.5gr of Unique weren't "pretty". They would occasionally key-hole and those that didn't shot "patterns"... Not enough velocity to stabilize the bullet with the twist rate.

I've loaded up some 117gr Hornady's with 20.0gr of IMR-3031 and seated the bullets to 2.506" so they will eject if not fired. I'll see if it hurts the accuracy and brings the point of impact down a little.

I've also ordered an 89gr FNGC mold from NOE. Should be here middle of next week. This bullet is more correct for the chamber/throat of the .25-36M. Looking foward to seeing if I can get an accurate load at 2,000-2,200fps.

This rifle is a "hoot" to shoot !

But, I've got a idea of why it faded. Given cost and availability of ammo, mixed with bullet quality and weight/velocity matching, I think that it was a sight/ammo regulation problem that contributed to the reputation of "inaccuracy"... and, not enough bullet expansion to give desired performance on bigger game.

Not knowing the history of this rifle. (It supposedly has been in a closet for over 50yrs) and that ammo hasn't been available for over that long (though it does shoot well with factory .25-35win), that it was lack of big-game (deer were effectively shot-out of this part of S.E. by civil war), and excessive power/cost for small game.

I have no doubt's that I'll kill a deer with it this coming fall. I've shot and killed them with lesser cartridges (ie: .22Hornet with 50gr FNGC), so I KNOW with proper bullet placement that a ~90gr FNGC at ~2,100fps will do the trick. Likely won't even find/recover a fired bullet.

p.s. The formed brass form .30/30 is correct in length. Length for the .25-35 is 1.960" or so, and 2.06 for .25-36. My formed brass from .30/30 are running 2.05" so are just right.
The difference in the chamber of the .25-36 is no more different that the difference between .30/30 partially full-length sized and fired from the chamber of the Win. Mod-94 and Marlin/Glenfield M30 that I have. The .30/30's chamber's are "rounded" on the shoulder and shoulder to neck just like the .25-36M is. But sizing just enough to "touch" and sharpen the shoulder of the fired cases to give easy extraction on the next firing, the brass isn't excessive worked, but still sized enough on the case head to give positive/easy chamber and extraction of un-fired rounds.

It's been a fascinating project getting this old "geezer" shooting....
 
#18 · (Edited)
Update;
Finally took it to the range and chrono'd loads and shot off a bench w/sandbags.

WOW!

the old deteriorated .23/35win was erratic. Two chrono'd ~2,150, others as low as 1,800 with two hang fires. Group was strung vertically ~10".
Hornady 117gr loaded to 2.55"oal over 21.0gr of IMR3031 ran ~2,200 and got 2" 3-shot groups at 100yds with two of three in red 1" dot of 8" SHOOT N SEE bulls eye!!! (Some one had left them tacked to a stand/target frame at range)
Three 117's over 20.0gr of 3031 @ 2.510" (to allow ejection of unfired cartridge) weren't so good as the grouped ~5" with vertical spread. Also only chrono'd ~1,900fps.
The standout load was 14.0gr of Acc5744 and 90gr NOE FNGC.
The first group was ~3" 3-shot, and ~4" left. I "wiggled and pushed" the rear buckhorn sight a tad to the right ( it's fitted loose enough that it can be wiggled and pushed without needing a punch and hammer). First shot of next group hit the center dot at 2oclock! Second at 4 o'clock! Third shot landed ~1.5" left. Chrono'd average was just under 2,000fps.
I proceeded to shoot the rest of the 15rds I'd taken to range into th bull. Without looking through the spotting scope, I could see the yellw splotches " growing" in the center of the bullseye. Except for one flyer that landed on the edge of the bull at 8 o'clock all went into a ~3" group!
Storys of the .25-36 being inaccurate are BUNK! Ammo? Likely; but this old " geezer" will SHOOT.
I went home and loaded all 43 empty reformed cases with the NOE's. Forget the jacketed bullets!

BTW, two benches down a "local" was shooting a bubba'd Moisen. Had an Archangel "tacti-cool" stock, scope mount and Walmart CenterPoint scope. Shooting Russian milsurp fmj at similar target, his groups were 2x what the ancient Marlin would do!
the RO was standing behind me watching me shoot. When he called the line safe and I stood up and looked back, he grinned at me and shook his head and said, you ain't rite!
Not bad for a 100yr old "closet queen" rust collector.
It has cleaned up nice! Case finish on receiver is probably 50%, blueing on barrel and magazine perhaps 80%. I'm going to have to learn how to download pics and show it off!

edited to add; based on how much case finish is left on the tang, I'm convinced that the 1893 on the receiver wasn't stamped cleanly at the factory. Just too much finish to be rubbed off.
 
#20 ·
Your rifle's tang sight was drilled and tapped at the factory to accept a vintage Lyman tang sight which will be stamped with a 'JA' under the base plate. If you don't use this sight then the stem will be struck by the bolt when you open the lever, for instance if you install the modern Marbles tang sight. The vintage Lyman sights come up on e-Bay on occasion but they are getting pricey if they are in good shape. You can expect to pay up to $200.00 and I've seen prices even higher than that.
 
#23 ·
I looked it up in Cartridges of the World It was introduced in 1895 and is not considered interchangeable with the hotter 25-35 Winchester and the use of the 25-35 ammo is not recommended due to rifle strength issues. Marlin did puts its moniker on a few Winchester cartridges but not this one. Its loading was as stated 1800 with a 117 grain bullet. As to its demise, it likely was an orphan and a bit under powered when compared to the Winchester round which also died off. If you appreciate Frank Barnes editorializing it is "under powered for deer" Personally if I had one I would use it on a couple of stands I have that yield fairly close range shooting and where I am considering using my 357 Rossi. I turned down a 25-35 Winchester once an kind of regretted it.

DEP
 
#25 ·
The penalty for not posting pictures is not pretty. ;)
 
#26 · (Edited)
Making brass from Star Line I ran the long through a 32-40 cowboy die in three stages and ended with 2.176 OAL .0095 neck wall. Then I trimmed one to their short length and did the same 2.128 OAL. One pass through the 25-36 die 2.138 OAL. I used Imperial sizing wax for lube. The stuff on the pad don't cut it. . Make sure you take any dents out of the neck ( ran them through a 38-55 die) or they will collapse. It would be nice to just ose 32-40 to start, but at $2.00+ each that they are selling for on GB I'll use S-L short.
.

the first is 25-36 from the 32-40 made from S-L 38-55 short. The second pic is from L-R 38-55 long formed to 32-40 / Win 32-40 / 32-40 from 30-30. 2.050 OAL. rely kind of short. Hope this helps someone. WW