Click for the manual.

http://stevespages.com/pdf/marlin_60.pdf

Pretty rare gun, have fun with it, hard to get your hands on one of those. Built in the mid 1960's.

 

Those directions are for a 989 M2 - is that the same thing as a 989 ?

Pretty nice looking gun. I do remember my Dad shooting woodchucks MANY years ago. They would just stick their nose out of a hole and seconds later - they were dead !

 

and... is it comparable to a Marlin 60 ?

 

Oh yeah, reliable as the day is long
Keep the action clean, don't use RGB's or Thunderduds.
Make sure the ejector is set right & not worn out.
After making sure the ejector is ok, if it gives you any FTE's, give it new springs & a new buffer.

Basically the 989, 989-M2, & 989-G are all Marlin 70's in different outfits.
Add to that the 70HC, 700, 995, Katz 1282, & Coast to Coast 42.

The only major differences between all of those and the 795 is the LSHO & the magwell bump that prevents old-style mags from being used in the 795.


Sorry I ain't been around much lately, broke two fingers at work the day after X-mas...bleah.

 

Big Shrek,

Thx for the help. I'm sorry I'm a novice - I read and re-read your post and I just don't know what the heck all those acronyms are. Can you bring it down for me ? This is the only semi automatic gun my family owns.

My Dad is the original owner. I know he has always taken care of his guns 'cause they are over 40-50 years old and look /work like new. The action looks like it has never been cleaned - correctly. I want to bring it back to mechanically perfect condition - and for all I know it already is ! It never jammed and is in almost new condition - but I'd like to know how to check all the moving parts, clean it and lube correctly.

Thx

 

BIG SHREK you there ?

Thanks

 

RGB = Remington Golden Bullets

FTE = Can be either Failure to Eject or Extract. I think in this case he meant Failure to Eject.

LSHO = Last Shot Hold Open, in other words, locking the bolt to the rear after the last shot is fired.


Congrats on a nice gun. You don't see many of them available because those who have them tend to keep them!

 

Thanks for the defintions. This gun is in great condition. Almost new looking. The action and breach look like they could use a cleaning. I want to tear it down and clean it right. Someone from the site provided aa link to an Owners Manual that covers model#'s 60, 75, 99, 70, 99M1 and 989M2.

The decriptions look pretty different from my 989. i.e. my charge handle does not lock, and the 'cleaning the action' directions look different from my gun...

I don't want to start pulling this apart without concise directions. Do you know where I can obtain the owners manual for this specific model ?

Also, the gun has, I assume an original scope, a Marlin Micro Vue 4x. Is this considered a quality scope or should I upgrade ? The optics seem OK, but could probably use an overhaul...

I have (2) clips for this; a larger and smaller one. What bullets do you recommend for target and small varmints ( wood chuck ).

Thanks for your help...

 

Thanks for the defintions. This gun is in great condition. Almost new looking. The action and breach look like they could use a cleaning. I want to tear it down and clean it right. Someone from the site provided aa link to an Owners Manual that covers model#'s 60, 75, 99, 70, 99M1 and 989M2.

The decriptions look pretty different from my 989. i.e. my charge handle does not lock, and the 'cleaning the action' directions look different from my gun...

I don't want to start pulling this apart without concise directions. Do you know where I can obtain the owners manual for this specific model ?

Also, the gun has, I assume an original scope, a Marlin Micro Vue 4x. Is this considered a quality scope or should I upgrade ? The optics seem OK, but could probably use an overhaul...

I have (2) clips for this; a larger and smaller one. What bullets do you recommend for target and small varmints ( wood chuck ).

Thanks for your help...

Not having owned one, I'm afraid I'm not much help with the more technical questions. As for ammo, I'd say whatever it likes to shoot best. Tey a few different varieties and see if it prefers one type to the others. I know on most semi's it is a bad idea to shoot hyper velocity stuff but I don't know if such a thing even exists for .22WMR.

If the optics work, stick with them is my rule of thumb.

 

When you or your gunsmith have the action down for cleaning I think it's a good idea to change the buffer (bolt recoil pad). At that age it could be brittle.

 

Got some finger use back

I have no idea your familiarity with firearms & cleaning of them, so I'll kinda get wordy here...

Ok, if yours is the Four-Screw type, where you have to undo 4 screw to release the action parts from the housing,
you'll be looking for a 99-series manual. But because the 60 & 99 were Tube-Fed models & the 989 is a Box Mag fed...
there are some minor differences.


The 989 was made from 1962-1966 and was based on the same action as the Old Model 60 & 99 series.
The 989-M2 was made from 1966-1979 and the action was upgraded to resolve certain minor headaches that appeared
in the previous design, along with a more M-1-like stock.


All you really need to do to give it a good military field-strip cleaning...
First remove the action from the housing via the 4 screws, and set it aside...
then remove the bolt & bolt handle, followed by the recoil spring & recoil spring guide.
That is ALL the action you want to take apart the first time...this is a learning situation & basic cleaning.
You can get more intense after you feel you know it better...kind of like breaking in a new girlfriend

Take a toothbrush & some patches & your favorite gun cleaner...and CLEAN the action carefully, but completely.
Try not to monkey about with the E-clips...but if you knock one off & loose it,
Ace Hardware & other Hardware stores carry 'em.
The rails on top where the bolt rides usually need some serious cleaning...baked-on gunpowder residue...etc...
I usually take the time to hand-polish them...as it helps the bolt to ride better.
The bolt I usually hand-polish as well, using Arkansas Stones, but sandpaper on a flat surface works too.
Polished bolt & rails = easy sliding Hit the inside of the action with sandpaper...it'll smooth it up as well.

Check the plastic doodad on the back, that's the buffer...if it has cracks that go all the way thru, it needs replacing.
If not, leave it be for now, but order a replacement, you'll need it, as it IS an OLD rifle.
Clean the Recoil Spring Guide until it's SMOOTH as a baby's buttocks. Any roughness
J&P springs makes a great spring kit that interchanges from the model 60...hammer & recoil springs, you'll probably need those eventually too.

I change out the buffer & springs with any used semi-auto rifle I buy that's over 20 years old...PM is helpful
(Preventative Maintenance)
But the first time is a serious cleaning ONLY...it's a learning of the overview of the systems.
Then I go out & shoot it...if problems occur, I come back to the table.
CCI Minimags are great first-time ammo.
You usually don't have to worry about quality with 'em, they just shoot consistantly.

When you put the action back into the stock, screw the stock screws in to Finger-Tight...then work the action a few times.
It should feel smooth & right, then use a half-turn on each screw, then check again.
Once it goes to feeling Hard & not smooth, back off a quarter-turn, and check until it feels smooth.
This gives you proper screw tightness, you'll figure out the exact spot with time.

Mag Cleaning...the bottom plate on the mag slides off, but the first time you may need to give it some help...
Take a bore brush (9mm works well) and scrub the inside of the mags...clean the springs & follower...
run a oil patch & then dry patches thru em, then reassemble. You want it oiled, but not sloppy, if ya get my drift.

When cleaning the Barrel & Chamber, make sure that when you are done, you get ALL the Oil out of the Chamber & barrel!!
Use dry patches & q-tips if you have to, but get that chamber totally free of oil!!
When you fire a semi-auto, if you have oil in the chamber it will quickly combine with the burnt gunpowder & create a gummy substance...
which means it won't extract very well before long...even though everything else looks fine (extractors/ejectors).

I think that's everything important...Eli will probably be along shortly to correct anything I've missed

 

Got some finger use back

I have no idea your familiarity with firearms & cleaning of them, so I'll kinda get wordy here...

Ok, if yours is the Four-Screw type, where you have to undo 4 screw to release the action parts from the housing,
you'll be looking for a 99-series manual. But because the 60 & 99 were Tube-Fed models & the 989 is a Box Mag fed...
there are some minor differences.


The 989 was made from 1962-1966 and was based on the same action as the Old Model 60 & 99 series.
The 989-M2 was made from 1966-1979 and the action was upgraded to resolve certain minor headaches that appeared
in the previous design, along with a more M-1-like stock.


All you really need to do to give it a good military field-strip cleaning...
First remove the action from the housing via the 4 screws, and set it aside...
then remove the bolt & bolt handle, followed by the recoil spring & recoil spring guide.
That is ALL the action you want to take apart the first time...this is a learning situation & basic cleaning.
You can get more intense after you feel you know it better...kind of like breaking in a new girlfriend

Take a toothbrush & some patches & your favorite gun cleaner...and CLEAN the action carefully, but completely.
Try not to monkey about with the E-clips...but if you knock one off & loose it,
Ace Hardware & other Hardware stores carry 'em.
The rails on top where the bolt rides usually need some serious cleaning...baked-on gunpowder residue...etc...
I usually take the time to hand-polish them...as it helps the bolt to ride better.
The bolt I usually hand-polish as well, using Arkansas Stones, but sandpaper on a flat surface works too.
Polished bolt & rails = easy sliding Hit the inside of the action with sandpaper...it'll smooth it up as well.

Check the plastic doodad on the back, that's the buffer...if it has cracks that go all the way thru, it needs replacing.
If not, leave it be for now, but order a replacement, you'll need it, as it IS an OLD rifle.
Clean the Recoil Spring Guide until it's SMOOTH as a baby's buttocks. Any roughness
J&P springs makes a great spring kit that interchanges from the model 60...hammer & recoil springs, you'll probably need those eventually too.

I change out the buffer & springs with any used semi-auto rifle I buy that's over 20 years old...PM is helpful
(Preventative Maintenance)
But the first time is a serious cleaning ONLY...it's a learning of the overview of the systems.
Then I go out & shoot it...if problems occur, I come back to the table.
CCI Minimags are great first-time ammo.
You usually don't have to worry about quality with 'em, they just shoot consistantly.

When you put the action back into the stock, screw the stock screws in to Finger-Tight...then work the action a few times.
It should feel smooth & right, then use a half-turn on each screw, then check again.
Once it goes to feeling Hard & not smooth, back off a quarter-turn, and check until it feels smooth.
This gives you proper screw tightness, you'll figure out the exact spot with time.

Mag Cleaning...the bottom plate on the mag slides off, but the first time you may need to give it some help...
Take a bore brush (9mm works well) and scrub the inside of the mags...clean the springs & follower...
run a oil patch & then dry patches thru em, then reassemble. You want it oiled, but not sloppy, if ya get my drift.

When cleaning the Barrel & Chamber, make sure that when you are done, you get ALL the Oil out of the Chamber & barrel!!
Use dry patches & q-tips if you have to, but get that chamber totally free of oil!!
When you fire a semi-auto, if you have oil in the chamber it will quickly combine with the burnt gunpowder & create a gummy substance...
which means it won't extract very well before long...even though everything else looks fine (extractors/ejectors).

I think that's everything important...Eli will probably be along shortly to correct anything I've missed

+1 I felt the need to resurrect this post as I was going through an old 989.

Big Shrek gave the type of response we appreciate here on MO. Great advice for not only the 989 family, but for guys breaking out their old 60's. I paid careful attention to the buffer as they get quite brittle and just crumble if you breath on 'em. Big Shrek's point about keeping the lube light is key. I spent a good 30 minutes with all the little tools de-gunking the chamber area. Real mess left by someone who ran out of "round-to-it" chips!

John

 

Awesome ! That is exactly what I needed.

I'm a novice at maintaining my guns other than pulling bolts out and cleaning actions and barrels after each use. They haven't needed any work. However, I am very mechanically inclined and am confident I'll be OK. It is very nice to know I have resources like you - people who I can 'lean on' if something goes awry.

That, and my favorite tool in-the-box, my digital camera (I take pix as I go so I can use them as a reference to see how it all gets put back together again ).

I firmly believe in the preventive manitenance idea. That's why I want to take this .22 down before I even fire a bullet. Although the gun looks like new, the action looks like it has never been thoroughly cleaned right... Next will be the original Marlin AccuVue 4x scope.

Now, I need an hour or so away from the Rugrats to get into it without interruption.

When you say sand paper - do you mean emory cloth ?

I have always left an oil residue in my higher caliber, lever-action guns - is that OK ?

 

I have a 989M2
That is the first Marlin I ever had.. ;D
I'm still trying to shoot the barrel out :
Found a few high cap mags
Have 2 of the stock 15 round Marlin/Ram Line..
All I can say is FUN!! ;D ;D ;D
I won't use the rifle for 100 yard bench rest.
But at 25 to 50 yards ,ground squirrels better hide..

 

OK she's apart. A few questions:

- the breach bolt has a roller type wheel on the right, held in by a pin, this came out and easily goes back in. It has grooves on one side, from it looks like wear. What's this called - where can I buy one ?

- I know oil should be used at a minimum - what should be lubed and with what ?

Thanks !

 

Marlin 989 .22 semi auto - THANKS for the help !

Thanks all for the help. I stripped her, cleaned her, lubed her lightly w/ a synthetic oil and re-assembled. I have not fired her yet.

Big Shrek - your instructions helped me tremendously.

I did not have to replace anything because I don't think this gun shot more than 500 rounds - EVER.

I did slightly grind one of the extractors smooth-to-the-bolt a little as it was chafing one side of the chamber.

All went very smoothly.

Thanks again....

 

I also am a total newcomer to the 'Marlin 989 M-2' scene only having owned for for the past 2 days and l was wondering if anyone could answer a query that l have about it.

l do not know the age of it but the serial number starts with : 9634**** and it has the proof mark on the barrel of
(JM).

Attached to it is a complicated leather sling, the likes of which l have never seen before.
Instead of the normal strap and buckle fastening, this one is held closed by two (2) Brass curved double hooks that fit into holes in the leatherwork. The other holes on the sling are then held together with leather laces very tightly fastened.

Question 1. Would this sling have been standard issue with this rifle ?
Question 2. The sling is very, very dried out and almost white in colour, if l was to feed the leather with some
proper 'leather food' , would it devalue the entire rifle ?
Finally, what is the best wax to use on the stock to give a nice, shiny finish ?
l'm sorry to have gone on a bit, but l m anxious to give it the best attention that l can.
Thanks

Dr Barrie (Dr)
drbarrie99@aol.com

 

sounds like a standard military sling; this rifle did not come with factory sling from Marlin as far as I know - it does not hurt value to take care of the sling; any leather product will work fine. A good furniture polish will not harm the stock, others will chime in with their favorite brands, or you can do a search on this site. Lots of good products out there! Refinishing the stock is not recommended if you want to keep top collector value. Straight shooting!

 

I've got a Marlin 989-M2 that needs some help. I was looking for info and found this thread.
I've had this siince about 1976 (IIRC 10th birthday present) ...
Probably has about 5K or more rounds through it. a few years ago it started giving me FTF (fire mostly, occassionally feed) and some FTE's. About 2 yrs ago I had it "serviced" at the local Gander Mountain out of concern. Recently I was suggested to replace springs and buffer. It improved the situation, but did not resolve it. Recently I just started to run in with only Mini-mags (amazingly I found a source!!), and it seemed 'fixed'.
So I tried to run my first AQT at an Appleseed ... Only for it to give several FTF (all fire) again on the timed AQT (drat!!!).

As I've never replaced anything since I got it; or attemped to take it apart ever ... I am planning to before returning to another appleseed or squirrel season get here.

The question I have is where do I order springs and buffer from? Marlin Directly? the 'service center' for my area? or my LGS?
I hope to get through this within the next couple of weeks to get this running like it used to.

Thanks for all the geat help. This is a very helpful thread and info.

 

I've purchased spares for my M1 and M2 from ebay and Gunbroker parts section. Have yet to order from Remington / Marlin.

 

I realize this is an older post, but recently put my old Marlin 989 back together. With the price and unavailability of ammo, shooting the .22 seems a little more economical. Anyway, I can't seem to find any serial number - I've had this for maybe 25 years and an older used model then. Is it possible this was made prior to the serialization? I've had this own to te last spring and don't see anything.
Thanx - and great forum - great experience and knowledge here.

 

Back to the top again! My old man recently gave me his 989G. I have yet to find an owners manual for it. It has a good bit of rust on the barrel, but I remember shooting it about 30 years ago and it functioned fine. I really want to get it stripped down completely, and back in the best working order I can achieve. I also want to knock the rust off of it and reblue the barrel and refinish the stock. I don't want to do this without the owner's manual. The one provided in the start of this thread is not for the G model. Apparently the Ms are tube feeds. Mine takes a clip. Any help with that?

Also, what is the best way to get rid of the rust? I was thinking 000 steel wool and then a reblueing job. Am I way off base here?

PS- I need a couple clips, and no serial number, any guess on the age?

 

Keep the action clean, don't use RGB's or Thunderduds.

I have a Marlin 989 M2 as well. I don't know what Thunderduds are but I may have shot 100 or so rounds of the Remington golds. Whats the harm? They are just messier for the action?

Also, I seem to have about 4 misfires per, I don't know, 50 rounds I shoot. It seems far too many than there should be, especially with ammo that's only a year or so old. If I re-load it again, it will fire so i know its not a dud. The firing pin doesn't make much of an impression on the casing but this being the only rim-fire I have ever fired, I don't know how much of an impression it is supposed to make. I am beginning to think the firing pin does not have sufficient propulsion. Does anybody know what parts are suspect to replace in order to fix the problem? Thanks in advance!

 

The firing pin doesn't make much of an impression on the casing but this being the only rim-fire I have ever fired, I don't know how much of an impression it is supposed to make.

 

Keep the action clean, don't use RGB's or Thunderduds.

I have a Marlin 989 M2 as well. I don't know what Thunderduds are but I may have shot 100 or so rounds of the Remington golds. Whats the harm? They are just messier for the action?

Also, I seem to have about 4 misfires per, I don't know, 50 rounds I shoot. It seems far too many than there should be, especially with ammo that's only a year or so old. If I re-load it again, it will fire so i know its not a dud. The firing pin doesn't make much of an impression on the casing but this being the only rim-fire I have ever fired, I don't know how much of an impression it is supposed to make. I am beginning to think the firing pin does not have sufficient propulsion. Does anybody know what parts are suspect to replace in order to fix the problem? Thanks in advance!

sorry for the double post. I dont know how to delete! I responded to a different thread but it threw the post here. I hope you all know what Im refering to!

 

007

You've answered your own question. Remington rimfires have been inconsistent in ignition and very sooty inside the receiver.
Try CCI or Federal bulk before you dig into the internals. Maybe a slow firing pin from a gummed up bolt ? Have you taken out the bolt
and did a thorough cleaning ?

 

007

You've answered your own question. Remington rimfires have been inconsistent in ignition and very sooty inside the receiver.
Try CCI or Federal bulk before you dig into the internals. Maybe a slow firing pin from a gummed up bolt ? Have you taken out the bolt
and did a thorough cleaning ?

Yes I have thoroughly cleaned it at least twice since I shot the Remington. I don't use it often, and its only fired about 50 rounds since I last cleaned it.

Thanks for the photo reference Marvlin. I took some pictures of mine if you can make them out. The impression is easier to see on camera than it is in person. Is the thickness of the rim supposed to crush in?