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I finished my 50 Alaskan!!!

8.4K views 56 replies 19 participants last post by  FrankBrum  
#1 ·
Started out as an 18 inch Marlin 1895 Cowboy in 45-70. J.E.S. Reboring rechambered to 50 Alaskan. But he only does from the chamber forward. Inside the receiver, I put in easily 20 hours of hand file work to get the straight wall 510 in there. The big loop and Cerakote was done by my local Smith. Leather by a man I met on ebay. Sights are Skinners.

My pet load is a 525fngc bullet over 56gr of IMR 4198, in Starline brass.

I can hit bowling pins (gongs) at 100 yards.

Recoil is ridiculous. 6 or 8 shots and I'm done. It has sent me home with bruises on my shoulder, cheek, and knuckles (hence the loop mod)...

It draws quite the stares when it shoots, and sends 18 inch steel swinger gongs flying.

An rso says he has found "gray flowers" out there after the range shuts down.
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45acp, 44 Mag, 45-70, 50 Alaskan.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Extremely close, but not exact. Like one thousandth.

I did work a bit on the bolt. As the rear of the round came up the bolt face, it jammed. I removed a tiny bit of the area where it cups the rim of the round on the bottom. I radius that area with literally a few passes of the file, and the problem was gone.

It was this, or remove a bit forward of the round. The issue was just getting the round smoothly where it was aligned with the chamber. Its a big meplat
 
#18 ·
Very nice rifle. Any concerns about safety margins? I ask because the 1895 is already milled out quite a bit to accept the 45-70 cartridge and there's all kinds of warnings about not pushing it too much. I'm sure a little more steel has to be removed to accommodate the larger case of the 50, so I'm just curious if there are any issues there.
 
#19 ·
The work in the receiver was really not much as far as steel removed. It just took a long time.

As the round moves up on the lifter, it gets pushed towards the outside, just enough to create a jam. You have to completely disassemble, file a bit, completely clean, reassemble, and test. It took lots of these cycles.

And all of that work is between the locking block, and probably the rear half of where the round sits before it chambers. It should not affect how the receiver handles pressure.
 
#21 ·
I have no idea what pressure my 50AK does. I will link a reference document below that will give you some idea though, of what one CAN do. But the strength is in the chamber ( plus surrounding receiver) and the bolt locking block (again plus the surrounding receiver). Those areas were not touched by my file. Basically the area you can see through the ejection port. About the rear 3/4 of that area. And not much steel comes out.


Link:

 
#31 ·
I thought ( Tomray please give your expertise) reading that the receiver was essentially the same on the 336, 1895 and 444. Unfortunately the older I get, the less I trust my memory.
 
#32 ·
Yes it's true, they're all 336 actions. The 444 and 1895 (45-70) just have their walls milled out on the inside to allow room for the wider cartridge to clear, as well as loading and ejection ports opened up. Hence the reason, contrary to many people's belief, the 1895 is actually the weakest action of the bunch because it has the most steel removed.
 
#36 ·
If the 50 Alaskan follows what I have been seeing on big bore AR's and revolvers then the pressures fall more in line with like a Magnum pistol----like 30K to 40K PSI. 50 Beowulf on my Std AR is like that and uses Lrg pistol mag primers. a small 5.56 actually has more pressure in the 60K range.
 
#42 ·
Great lookin' rifle! The whack I get from my 1895GS is MORE than enough after a couple 325gr Hornadys, but more power to y'a!
 
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#43 ·
I’ve built two 1895s in 50 Alaskan now. One is stainless and the other a blue cowboy octagon barrel. I had both barrels rebored to 1:18 twist. Both feed beautifully and shoot very accurately. I have used 350gr up to 700gr. I also just finished a Winchester 1886 born in 1888. I was building it to a 50-110 aka 50 AK but ran across an original Winchester 1886 / 45-90 barrel so it’s a 45-90 now.