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Honing a barrel band...

2.2K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  northmn  
#1 ·
OK, if I've read it once I've read it a thousand times...

People hone the barrel band to relieve stress (binding) and improve accuracy. I get that and understand the concept.

However, the part I don't recall ever hearing is on which side? Do you relieve the barrel side and have it clamp snug to the magazine tube or the other way around? Or.... do you do both equally?

I'm working on a 1957 35 Texan that used to be mine and now belongs to my daughters boyfriend. When I owned it I was never satisfied with the accuracy. Would do OK for a couple shots then start opening up drastically. It had a really odd set of sling swivel studs on it that had a pushbutton release with locking balls inside. The part on the tube was really bulky and spread it out away from the barrel even though whoever installed it drilled a relief for the screw just like the front band has. I took it off and that helped a little. The front band still pulls the mag tube down until it's just touching the barrel near the muzzle. If I take the front band off, the tube lays parallel to the barrel with about a strong 1/16" gap all the way. Maybe 3/32 even. I'm trying to make this gun shoot a little better for the owner since deer season is next week.

Figured a good place to start will be to relieve the binding in the tube by opening up the band but had never thought about which side to do.

I'm thinking which side may not be as important as the fact that the stress is gone and I wonder if equal might be better? I can't imagine I'd want one side actually loose because it would rattle/chatter regardless of which side was relieved. The mechanic in me says the object would be to elongate more than open up so the screw can still put some tension on the middle while the tube to barrel gap stays parallel.

What say you all?
 
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#2 ·
I think you answered your own question at the end. Ya don't want rattle. When I cut the barrel on my 35, I had to dremel out the front band, I went slow and tested often. I also took some off the forearm band instead of sanding the wood.

Good luck
 
#3 ·
It may be the barrel band. But the fore end could be loose, or binding against the barrel also. Make sure that the magazine tube does not touch the barrel. And how are you supporting the barrel/fore end when you're shooting off the bench?

What size groups are you getting now, and what size will you be happy with?
 
#4 ·
Fore end is not lose, could be binding though I'd rather lose than tight anyway. My best shooting barrel band type marlins all have a tiny bit of movement in the fore ends. My first goal will be to get the magazine tube parallel then I'll go from there if it still has issues. From the bench I rest the front of the receiver on the rest. Groups at 25 can start out touching but for some reason at 100 they are never very good. Sometimes groups at 100 open up to 5 to 7 inches. I'd like an honest 2 inches.
 
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#5 ·
On a totally different thought, Dave. You say that the band pulls the mag tube down away from the barrel (as I understand what you said) so that the tube touches the barrel at the muzzle end. Is it possible that taking a little (emphasize LITTLE) wood out of the channel for the mag tube would help the problem? It seems to me (and only a guess) that if the barrel band is moving the mag tube further from barrel at the band point that the forearm wood might be the problem. But I promise you I could well be totally wrong -- just something to think about! Wish I could help more. John
 
#7 · (Edited)
Papajohnabi,

Yes, you misunderstand....

The barrel band does not pull the tube AWAY from the barrel, it pulls it towards the barrel. There WAS an issue with the forward sling hanger. It was bowing the tube away from the barrel forward of the forend before I removed it. This actually made the gap tighter at the front since the barrel bands acted like a pivot point. Currently, the gap at the front of the forend is normal but gets pinched down at the front barrel band. I'm wanting the gap to be even all the way out to the end.
 
#10 ·
Have not shot this one with any parts removed yet. The rear barrel band screw flat will not come out. Slot was already buggered and only got worse. And yes, I'm using proper gunsmith screwdrivers before that chorus starts.... Will require drill and easy out or hammer and punch to remove. I've soaked with Kroil and can move it a bit but head slot is worthless at this point. I suspect the screw is also bent just by the way it acts. Tried to file the slot deeper but not enough sticking up to do that without filing into the band itself. A left hand drill but would probably spin it right out at this point if I had one. Plan is to order a screw before I go any farther for two reasons. One, it's not my gun and two, deer season starts the 14th and I don't want it to be missing a screw on opening day. I know I can drill and easy out it no problem, just want to wait until I have the new screw in hand. Accuracy is adequate at this point to hunt. Just want it to be better eventually.
 
#11 ·
My 35 Remington shot off as it warmed up and it does not have barrel bands. The forearm was very tight and I sanded it out and it now works for at least 3 shots.
Accuracy with barrel bands go South as the barrel heats up. I remove metal from the barrel part of the band. You get little movement doing that as the aforearm is still held tight to the stock. Check the screw clearance to the slot in the barrel. Some just keep the band screws a little looser and lock tight them.

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