has the set screw lef a dimple in the hammer and it goes into the same dimple all the time could that be the reason filling in the dimple or try another set screw

 

I red rock lighted mine on. It stayed like that for a year or two until I got rid of the scope. I didn't have an allen wrench good enough to get in the screw, but don't worry about the red locktite. If you need to take it off, just break out a hair dryer and hold the hair dryer on it for a prolonged time, or until you can break the screw loose. I had to dremel mine off. lol

 

I have had the same problem on some of my rifles. One if the hammer spurs came with 2 set screws that I had to use to get it to stay tight. You may try that.

I ordered the Marlin spur from Midyay but they sent me one of the Uncle Mike’s instead that was wrong for the rifle that I wanted it for but I kept it to use on another rifle. It would work loose the same way. I ordered the right Uncle Mike’s for the rifle and solved the problem. I don’t know if this is your problem.

Midway has these 3 listed for the Marlin rifle that I could find. Maybe this will help.

Marlin spurs.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=735650&t=11082005

Uncle Mikes are listed as post 1983 and pre 1983.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=731712&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=600061&t=11082005

Set screw.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=839637&t=11082005

 

Early 70s Marlin hammers were thinner than 80s hammers.

My later Marlin had the newer round hammer extension and I also, could not keep it tight. My fix was to narrow the existing hammer spur and install the older flat type hammer extension.

I have never had an older flat hammer extension come loose.

 

I have not had one come loose.. I would use the loc-tite if I had to though

 

Take a look at my post in Hammer Swap, just a different way to tackle the problem, eliminate it.

 

Here's a "me too". The older flat extensions have never come loose. The round type all get loose with use. And, like you, I've "lock-tited" them (blue).

PC

 

Both of the 336's are of late model with the round spur. These only have a single set screw I believe. Personally, I'd rather have the flat type spur. But I don't believe this will fit the latter style wider hammers.

My 35 came new in the box from Marlin with the spur. The 30-30 I bought used but I can not find a scratch on it and have doubts whether it was ever fired or used in the field more than a year. It had a leupold scope base and the hammer spur already installed.

Both of the rifles when the spur was put in place and the lever cycled, the bolt bottom would not just hit the hammer to cock it. It ALSO hit the spur. in BOTH directions. On both rifles I ground down the spur so that the bottom of the bolt missed the spur. This also made the action cycle MUCH smoother and much less resistance. So it was an improvement worth making no matter what in my mind.

I thought that the extra beating the spur took from the bottom of the bolt hitting it was causing the spur to get loose. So once I eliminated that contact, I thought I had it fixed. But then it came loose again on my 35 Rem. That is when I blue lock tighted it. But as mentioned in my original post it is loose again.

I think I will use red lock tight on both and hopefully be done with it. As noted above it can alsways be cut off. The spurs are not that terribly expensive to replace.

 

Coat the hammer and the set screw with release agent and use a little Acra-glass gel to make the extension a perfect fit to the hammer. I did it on an old Winchester that had a loose extension on it when I got it. Then a little blue loc-tite on the screw and it never came loose again.

Dave.

 

Had the same problem with my 308 MX last year. Finally lose the extension on the way back to camp on the 4 wheeler. Bought a new one and it's still hanging tough -- for now. This is a good thread for me too, I like Dave284's solution, worth a try.

SS

 

Well red lock tite doesn't work either. After less than 20 shots with my daughters 30-30 the spur was preceptably loose. What a royal PITA!!!!!

Red lock tight does nothing on the set screw to the hammer spur.

I have a problem with the round late model hammer spur loosening up. I put red lock tite on it and this year on both my daughters 30-30 and my 35 Rem they were both loose.

I bought a 30-30 336W for my daughter. Set the set screw as tight as I could with the Allen wrench. After cycling the action and dry firing it with the CBS on about 50 times the spur was loose.

I then re lock tight-ed both with RED lock tite the set screws on both rifles. After my daughter shot her "new" 30-30 less than 20 times, the hammer spur was loose.

As far as I can see. Red lock tite (bought new last year) isn't worth the packaging that it came in!

I may have to look into another solution. I'm thinking about trying an Uncle Mikes spur. It looks just abit differrent than the factory Marlin part. But they look so similar I have my doubts. But at only about $10 after shipping it may be worth a try. The next is to try filing of the hammer to fit the old style flat spur. I'm not sure about any glassing method or how that would even help.

 

I have seen one Marlin with the hammer bent down for extra thumb clearence. The TC folks have solved this problem by making an offset hammer that can be set left or right. Might be a nice option for WWG to poll for interest in addition to their other fine products. Me I would just epoxy the thing on if you want it there. Simple enough to heat up and remove if needed. Kind of a pain to have it fail that way on a good hunting tool

 

Can't believe nobody has thought of this - although I am not an expert or anything - but just maybe might have stumbled onto this by accident a few years ago -

If the spur is installed too far up the hammer, then the round hammer extensions don't have the clearance while cycling the action - the bolt will tap the spur while levering. Even with the locktite, the tapping and jostling would be enough to loosen the set screw. You may not see the wear on the spur itself, but the bottom of the bolt might show a dark streak where its hitting.
You might want to try to reposition the spur a bit to allow for more clearance and it might do the trick.

If not, then heed my disclaimer above.

 

Can't believe nobody has thought of this - although I am not an expert or anything - but just maybe might have stumbled onto this by accident a few years ago -

If the spur is installed too far up the hammer, then the round hammer extensions don't have the clearance while cycling the action - the bolt will tap the spur while levering. Even with the locktite, the tapping and jostling would be enough to loosen the set screw. You may not see the wear on the spur itself, but the bottom of the bolt might show a dark streak where its hitting.
You might want to try to reposition the spur a bit to allow for more clearance and it might do the trick.

If not, then heed my disclaimer above.

On another thread. And I think Briefly mentioned it early on this thread. But the spur was mounted as far back on the hammer as possible. It DID contact the bottom of the bolt. On BOTH rifles. I ground off a rounded area from the top of the hammer spur attachment such that the bolt no longer touches the hammer spur. So this contact is not the cause.

I do not believe that it is a result of the side load or something created from the thumb pulling the hammer back. I believe it has to do with the sudden stop of the hammer (impact) when it is fired or hits the CSB when dry firing.

Maybe I have installed the spur too far back. And need to make sure it is far enough forward in order for the set screw to tighten down in the very bottom of the concave cut out in the hammer? I thought I tried to wiggle the spur as I slowly tighten the set screw so that it would center itself in this low area.

Anyhow this is really ticking me off!

Swany. What "epoxy would you suggest to glue the darn thing on? (JB weld)?

Heck part of me just wants to weld or braze the thing on the hammer. I'm thinking the very back edge of the hammer and a bead onto the spur.Although this would be virtually permenent. But a file to the "weld" would be able to remove if required I would think.

 

Yep! JB Weld is the best. The idea is to have it stay put. I've done my workaround so they are not necessary on my scoped guns, I have given all my spurs away.

I have seriously thought about heating and bending the hammer to the right for myself. The newer wider hammers have serrations for the thumb operation, simply adding a drop or two of epoxy then installing the spur, wipe off the excess, the serrations with glue should hold it. I do have several single shot shotguns that I have JB Welded scope bases on are still holding up under that recoil.

 

Heck part of me just wants to weld or braze the thing on the hammer. I'm thinking the very back edge of the hammer and a bead onto the spur.Although this would be virtually permenent. But a file to the "weld" would be able to remove if required I would think.

Not weld or braze, but solder. Then, if you wanted to remove it, all you'd need would be heat.

 

I had repeated problems with the marlin hammer extensions on both my son's new Marlin .30.30MXLR, and my Marin .308MX rifle.

I finally used a drop of superglue on each, and so far that has worked...what a pain.

You'd think Marlin would send a hammer extension that would fit up the way they say it will in their instructions....

We'd never know that we weren't the only ones having this very frustrating problem if it weren't for forums like this one!!

 

I cannot keep mine on even with blue loctite. I had another one come off today while shooting my .308mx. My thumbs are small enough that I really don't need them anyway so I am just going to leave them off. The only one I have that will stay on is an old flat one on my Glenfield that I shoot with open sights. Go figure.

 

Red Lock Tite doesn't work either!

The inside of the hammer spur is so smooth, I'd worry about adhesion of JB weld on the spur. The hammer has the serrations. Maybe I could cut serrations on this with a dremmel tool for some additional adhesion.

I think my JB weld is old. I have not had good luck with it. Maybe I should buy some fresh stuff and give it a try. I don't have much to loose other than a bunch of PITA clean up if it doesn't work and I want to move on to solder.

Solder may also be the answer. I would think that the heat would suck the solder into cracks. Would the heat necessary to get the solder to work cause a loss in the temper in the hammer metal?

 

I don't think so, but you could check with Marlin on it.

 

Why do the old flat ones stay on better than the round ones??