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Forming 218 Bee Brass From Starline 32-20 Brass, The Easy Way!

31K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  GooseGestapo  
#1 ·
Forming 218 Bee Brass from Starline 32-20 Brass

(Apologize for the blurriness in the images, will update images with clearer photos at a later time.)

Brass Used:
Starline Brass 32-20 - 500 Pieces - $123.40 (MO Tax Added) ($114.40 Shipped outside MO)

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Dies Needed:
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 25-20 WCF - Lee #: 90750 - $30.99
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 218 Bee - Lee #: 90753- $30.99
Redding Trim Die 25-20 WCF - Redding #: 83218 - $50.99
Redding Trim Die 218 Bee - Redding #: 83200 - $40.99
Redding Extended Shellholder #3E (218 Bee, 25-20 WCF, 32-20 WCF) - Redding #: 11503 - $15.29

Extras:
Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2 oz - Imperial #: 07600 - $8.99

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The cost of the dies and case sizing wax are reflective of July 14, 2015, MidwayUSA prices.

This post assumes that you already have a reloading press that accepts the current standard 7/8"-14 threaded dies.


Step 1:
Items needed - Redding Trim Die 25-20 WCF - Redding #: 83218, Redding Extended Shellholder #3E - Redding #: 11503, Imperial Case Sizing Wax

Put the Redding Trim Die 25-20 WCF in your press and use the Redding Extended Shellholder #3E with this die.
Rub a little dab of the Imperial Case Sizing Wax on your thumb and index finger, a little goes a long way as you should get 10 plus cases lubed. As you grab a 32-20 case, rub the case neck and mouth between your lubed thumb and index finger and place the case in the Redding Extended Shellholder #3. Slowiy insert the case into the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. Stop when the case has been inserted all the way as you will feel the case meet hard resistence and you will see the top of the case mouth level or almost level with the edge of the hole in the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. Slowly slide the case out of the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. You shouldn't have any issues with creases, splits, or dents in the case, although a case here and there one may get a crease in it. 2-3 cases out of 100 cases got a crease in them when I did this step. Out of 500 cases, I only managed to screw up 19 cases throughout the entire process.

Do not wipe off the Imperial Case Sizing Wax from the case, you're going to need it on the case for the following steps.

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Step 2:
Items needed: Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 25-20 WCF - Lee #: 90750

Lee includes a shellholder with this set, if you are using another die set, you will need the shellholder. In this case it is Lee's #6 shellholder.
Remove the decapping rod from the 25-20 WCF full length sizing die, as we are not going to need it in this step. Put the 25-20 WCF full length sizing die in your press and use the appropriate shell holder. Do Not Use The Redding Extended #3E Shellholder For This Step!
Slowly run the newly formed case into the 25-20 WCF full length sizing die and slowly slide the case out of the die. Inspect the case to make sure there are no dents or creases. You should now have a case that you can load for your 25-20 rifle if you choose to do so.

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Step 3:
Items needed: Redding Trim Die 218 Bee - Redding #: 83200, Redding Extended Shellholder #3E (218 Bee, 25-20 WCF, 32-20 WCF) - Redding #: 11503

Put the Redding 218 Bee Trim Die in the press and use the Redding Extended Shellholder #3E with this die. Slowly run the newly formed 25-20 case into the Redding 218 Bee Trim Die. Stop when you see the top of the case mouth level or almost level with the edge of the hole and meet hard resistence in the Redding 218 Bee Trim Die. Slowly slide the case out of the Redding 218 Bee Trim Die. When you remove and inspect the case, do not be alarmed that there appears to be a bulge between the 218 Bee sized mouth and case neck and the 25-20 formed neck and shoulder. This is the normal look for this step in this process. It will be taken care of in a later step.

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Step 4:
Items Needed: Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 218 Bee - Lee #: 90753

Lee includes a shellholder with this set, if you are using another die set, you will need the shellholder. In this case it is Lee's #6 shellholder.
Put the 218 Bee full length sizing die in your press and use the appropriate shell holder. Do Not Use The Redding Extended #3E Shellholder For This Step!
Slowly run the newly formed case into the 218 Bee full length sizing die and slowly slide the case out of the die. Inspect the case to make sure there are no dents or creases. The bulge between the 218 Bee sized mouth and case neck and the 25-20 formed neck and shoulder is still there and that's okay.
You should now have a case that you can load for your 218 Bee rifle.

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Step 5:
Items needed: Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 218 Bee - Lee #: 90753, Small Rifle Primer Of Your Choosing, Powder Of Your Choosing
Optional items needed: Cream of Wheat, Toilet Paper, .224 Diameter Bullet Of Your Choosing

This step can be accomplished in several ways and is called "Fire Forming". This is where you place a primer in the primer pocket and load some powder into the newly formed case, place the case in your rifle and fire the rifle. Upon firing the rifle the case will form, hence "fire forming", a perfectly shaped 218 Bee case.

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Fire Forming Option 1 -
Place a small rifle primer in the primer pocket, load a small amount of powder of your choosing, usually one that you have more of, fill the rest of the case to just under the case mouth with Cream of Wheat, and top it off with a wad of toilet paper packed into the case mouth to keep the contents in the case from spilling out. Load a round into the chamber of your rifle, aim the rifle up towards the sky and fire. Remove the case. You will see that the small bulge in the case neck has disappered and you have a perfectly form 218 Bee brass case.

Fire Forming Option 2 - My Preferred Option In Fire Forming 218 Bee Brass
I like to load the newly formed 218 Bee case with a bullet, powder, and primer just like I would do if I was reloading any other brass. The only exception is that for this step I am not going to use Max Loads for the powder. The newly formed brass will shoot just fine and be as accurate as if you are shooting headstamped 218 Bee brass. I have some .224 diameter 50gr bullets I purchased at $8.67 a box of 100 bullets that I am going to use for this step, 8gr of H110 powder, and Winchester small rifle primers. Feel free to use whatever bullets, powder, and small rifle primer combos you want to for this step that are published for the 218 Bee cartridge. Once the cartridges are ready to fire, I load one in the chamber and one in the magazine and take aim at the target and fire. Upon removing the case, I have a perfectly formed 218 Bee brass case. Since I am using pointed bullets in this step in a Browning Model 65 lever action rifle with a tubular magazine, I only load one cartridge in the magazine. Upon firing the cartridge in the chamber and cycling the rifle to chamber the cartridge in the magazine, the newly formed brass cycles just fine and the small bulge doesn't affect the cycling of the rifle whatsoever.

After Step 5 above, you should be able to place your newly formed 218 Bee brass case next to a headstamped 218 Bee brass case, and see two identical 218 Bee cases. The two images below show the formed 218 Bee brass with the Starline 32-20 headstamp on the left side of the image and Winchester 218 Bee headstamped brass on the right side of the image. The Winchester 218 Bee brass used in these images is new and unfired and therefore hasn't been trim to size yet.

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The forming stages of the brass from start to finish. The cases go from left to right.
Untouched 32-20 case, Step 1 Case, Step 2 Case, Step 3 Case, Step 4 Case, Step 5 Case.
Please Note: Cases on either side look fatter but they are all the same width, my poor photo taking ability.

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#6 ·
When first experimenting forming the 32-20 brass to 218 brass without the use of the Redding dies and only using the Lee dies, out of 10 pieces of brass, I had 0 pieces form right. Most of the brass would crimp at or below the neck. I started out trying to form the brass as conservatively as possible and only spent money when something absolutely wasn't working out. After getting everything working correctly and smoothly, using the steps above, it was a breeze to form the brass. Just take it slow at first and if you follow the steps I outlined above, you'll be shooting your 218 Bee formed brass ammo in no time.
I have a Browning Model 65 218 Bee (Lever Action), Winchester Model 43 218 Bee (Bolt Action), and a Marlin 1894CL 218 Bee (Lever Action), all three fire the formed brass accurately up to 100 yards and with no issues. I haven't shot past the 100 yard mark yet.
The Browning Model 65 218 Bee is a pain to put a scope on it so it will stay open sights only.
The Winchester Model 43 218 Bee has just had a new Vortex Crossfire 2-7x32 scope put on it and it has only been bore sighted at the present time. Picked up the Vortex scope up at MidwayUSA on sale for less than $120.00.
I just got in a Leupold VX-III 2.5-8x36 scope to try out on the Marlin 219 Zipper I've got and I'm moving the Leupold VX-II 2-7x33 scope that was on the Zipper over to the Marlin 218 Bee.
I am hoping to get good results past the 100 yard mark with the scopes as I have a hard time trying to hit pop and beer cans with every shot past the 100 yard mark with the open sights. My problem with this is that I don't have eyes under 40 years of age any longer.
The Winchester Model 43 218 Bee, which is known for splitting the mouth of the case, hasn't split any of the formed brass case mouths yet with the 100 rounds I loaded specifically for use in the Model 43 to see how the brass would handle the case mouth issue. I have reloaded and shot the brass twice so far with no problems. I have reloaded this brass a third time but haven't shot any of it yet and all of the cases are in great condition when they were inspected before reloading them.
At this stage of the forming the 32-20 brass into 218 Bee brass, I'm a very happy camper as it has held up very well and just as good or better than factory formed 218 Bee brass that I have been reloading also.

 

Attachments

#8 ·
Thank you Mike for the kind words! I wish the iPhone 5 took better pics so that the accompanying images would have looked better! Wife's Samsung takes exceptional pics but I'm hoping iPhone 6 will get it right in regards to their camera and pic quality!
 
#9 ·
khough - thank you, very well done, worthy of a stickie to keep this underdog alive.

This calibre is just too interesting to miss.

Guess what I found, over here in the UK? A minty 1894 CL in 218 Bee !

Yep. And even an unopened bag of unfired Winchester Bee brass.

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What can I say? Ya gotta get a Bee...

It feels just perfect, I just can't wait to try some of my own made 224 cast boolits.


Here's some of the jacketed bullets I got with the rifle. I have never loaded a jacketed bullet as it happens, they look like little gemstones to me. On the left, is a hand-swaged 52 grain 0.224 bullet I make for some of my buddies from spent rimfire cases using BTSnipers dies. I may try some in my Bee (loaded single)

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Can't wait until Range Day. Thanks again khough !

bzzz bzzzzz bzzz
 
#10 ·
Can't wait until Range Day. Thanks again khough !

bzzz bzzzzz bzzz
Thank you Glen! and You're Welcome!

The 218 Bee is so much fun to shoot. You really do have to have one to appreciate the 218 Bee. Even the name of the caliber, 218 Bee, sounds like a very cool caliber.

Out of all the various bullets and bullet weights, the one bullet I really like in both the 218 Bee rifle and the 219 Zipper rifle is MidwayUSA's 34gr .224 HP Dogtown bullets. They're available at MidwayUSA.com. These little suckers really move along and are very accurate. The gentleman I bought my Marlin 219 Zipper from reloaded these bullets for shooting coyotes with because they didn't damage the fur, were very fast, and accurate. He lived in the northern U.S. in Wyoming or Montana where there is plenty of range land, and coyotes.

I have read about making bullets out of 22 rimfire cases but have never known someone that actually does it. Maybe you should post a "how-to" on here to show us the steps involved in making them.

If there's anything I can do to help you out with the 218 Bee, I'll do what I can.
 
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#11 · (Edited)
I just saw this thread while searching around for brass for a Winchester 1892 in 25-20. Has anyone tried these steps out and stopping at 25-20 size? Does the brass need to be trimmed or is it good to go from there?

I just purchased this wonderful rifle from a friends collection and the ammo, brass and bullets are hard to find.

I just found the answer to my question on another forum.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/384197-case-forming-25-20-32-20-brass-pic-heavy.html
 
#12 ·
chaasae - Follow Step One.

Step 1:
Items needed - Redding Trim Die 25-20 WCF - Redding #: 83218, Redding Extended Shellholder #3E - Redding #: 11503, Imperial Case Sizing Wax

Put the Redding Trim Die 25-20 WCF in your press and use the Redding Extended Shellholder #3E with this die.
Rub a little dab of the Imperial Case Sizing Wax on your thumb and index finger, a little goes a long way as you should get 10 plus cases lubed. As you grab a 32-20 case, rub the case neck and mouth between your lubed thumb and index finger and place the case in the Redding Extended Shellholder #3. Slowiy insert the case into the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. Stop when the case has been inserted all the way as you will feel the case meet hard resistence and you will see the top of the case mouth level or almost level with the edge of the hole in the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. Slowly slide the case out of the Redding 25-20 WCF Trim Die. You shouldn't have any issues with creases, splits, or dents in the case, although a case here and there one may get a crease in it. 2-3 cases out of 100 cases got a crease in them when I did this step. Out of 500 cases, I only managed to screw up 19 cases throughout the entire process.

After the above step, trim the case to the correct length, chamfer and debur. Now you should be all set to begin loading.

I like using the form and trim dies better than the full length sizing dies when forming 32-20 brass into another caliber. A lot of guys, me included, use our regular reloading dies that we reload with and use them also to form cases for other calibers. The problem with the 32-20 brass is that it isn't very strong. If you have loaded calibers like .243, .270, 7mm Mag, .357 Mag, 44 Mag, you can put a little muscle into it like when you're loading with cast bullets and the cases will generally handle it. 32-20 brass isn't very strong and crushes or gets creases in the neck when forming. You have to go slow and use a soft touch with the 32-20 brass. The Redding Form and Trim dies work out great on the 32-20 brass. Worth the investment if you're only source of brass is going to be making it yourself.
Good Luck!
 
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#13 ·
I am not the one doing the reloading. A friend of mine is an avid shooter and he has a guy that does the reloading. I passed on the information to him. He had never heard of doing this and it piqued his interest so he is giving it a try. He has some 32-20 brass sitting around so he is playing with it to see if he can get it to work. Apparently he is retired so he has time to play around with stuff like this.

Thanks for the follow up Ken.
 
#16 ·
Well I finally got my paws on the various dies to complete this process of forming 32-20 Brass (Starline) into 218-Bee.

I must admit, I boogered up the first 10 in a row, had a crease in the same place on the shouder-neck join. I was stumped, then I realised I was making a mistake by lubing the shoulders... duh, lubed the neck only and they were fine and no creases.

I used Lee resize lube.

Came to the fire-form stage. I think I got his part way wrong, they didn't blow-out to form and I got gas blow-by

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My load was a hard-cast-bullet, a 0.224 WFN, Pat-Marlin 22T (tall) gas-check, BHN-21, at 47 grains, Fiocchi SRP ahead of 8.0 grains of H110

Strangely enough, though focusing just on the forming, the load printed great little groups, but as we see, my brass didn't form.

Questions -

1. still safe to re-attempt to re-fireform this brass?

2. Anyone suggest a better load to do the job? I have 2400, H110, Lil Gun, Trail Boss, Unique, Universal, Green Dot, in my battery.
 
#17 ·
This is an outstanding thread!

I'm going the same route neck sizing 32-20 brass down to 218 BEE. I have been partially neck sizing from 32-20 down to 25-20, then full length sizing down to 218 BEE. Took me half a dozen or so attempts to get everything dialed in, but its working now. The end result is such a fine looking and efficient little cartridge. Can't wait to hit the range.

I picked up a used Marlin online so hopefully next weekend will be a great time at the range.

I've really fallen in love with these Marlin lever action rifles topped with a nice scope. Has anyone found a really great scope to match with a Marlin chambered in 218 BEE for Prairie dog shooting?

Thanks for all the tips!
 
#18 · (Edited)
8.0 H110 too light. Not enough pressure to obturate the cases. Try 5.0 gr Unique. Same velocity, sharper pressure rise to "inflate" the case.

I just won an auction for a Marlin 1894 CL .218 Bee. Been wanting one since they came out. I've never seen but one in-person. It was at a gunsmith for work on the "dreaded Marlin jam". I started reading ''tis thread re:forming .218 brass.

I bought Lee .25/20 and .218 die sets. With Starline brass I found it not necessary to run through.32/20 or .270 win dies (tried those, too).
I simply ran them far enough into the .25/20 die to form a neck approximately that of the Bee. I then ran them into the .218 Bee die. Voila, .218 Bee cases! I lost 23 out of 100 to various reasons. Some to folds, most to cracked necks. I lightly annealed the necks after sizing to .25/20, but I was already seeing some of the cracks developing. Next time I'll anneal before I start.

added: re: scope, mine is getting a Leupold VariXII Compact 2-7x.