Hey there MarkB -- Nice picture, it sure helps. Here is a link on my take on a repair. Most fillers out of a can, no matter what flavor, look just like filler. Another option may be to inset a case head, caliber specific to your rifle, and omit the bulls eye all together. http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/w...rking-bedding-repair/70450-so-youve-got-nasty-hole-your-stock-you-want-fix.html Hope this helps. Best regards. Wind

 

I have used wood glue or epoxy and wood filings (from similar wood). I have also used beeswax to fill small gaps that aren't liable to get gouged. I'm sure someone who has had a problem just like yours will chime in here shortly.

 

I would love to hear if others have had this problem and fixed it with woodworking skills as well. I just picked up a '70's vintage 1894 in 44 Mag and some bozo did the same darn thing. It looked like the rear sling anchor was centered in the old bullseye, but when I removed it, he had overtightened it and had crushed a half moon dent into the stock.

Some folks just shouldn't try "do-it-yourself" projects!

Marley

 

I have the same thing on one of my guns. I just live with it.

 

This is why I'm leery of using the bullseye to install the the swivel. Things like this can happen. Unless you'll always own that rifle, then someone else may someday have to contend with the bullseye. They may overbore it and end up just like yours is now.

How to fix it? To what degree? Just so there's not a gaping hole or.....so it's only barely visible?
- Walnut dust and glue - yes, but there's such a gap there that this type of repair will show clearly;
- An escutcheon like Wind suggests - might be the best for this type of damage. The case head is interesting. I never heard of it or thought of it, but I like it. Still, there are a variety of inlay "escutcheons" a guy could use, ranging from bone to wood to metals;
- A large walnut dowel - over-boring the hole and replacing with a larger diameter walnut dowel. It will be plainly visible, even if you then bore the dowel and put in a new bullseye;
- Buttstock replacement.

In all of the above cases, after fixing the repair, I would refinish the entire stock.

Good luck!

 

Here's one I fixed with the same problem. I set the bullseye first, in the center of the hole. Then I took some oil-base wood stain and added a few drops to some 5-minute epoxy. I put that around the bullseye in the gap. Let it set and sanded it smooth. It's not a perfect match but it got the job done. Don't use water-base stain, it won't mix with the epoxy.

 

Here's one I fixed with the same problem. I set the bullseye first, in the center of the hole. Then I took some oil-base wood stain and added a few drops to some 5-minute epoxy. I put that around the bullseye in the gap. Let it set and sanded it smooth. It's not a perfect match but it got the job done. Don't use water-base stain, it won't mix with the epoxy.

View attachment 17740

Doc, that is a very nice repair. Even though you can see the filler, it is not objectionable. Not to me, anyway.

 

Nice fix Doc! I'm gonna book mark this page for future reference.

 

Thanks pard. I meant to add, I used hot glue to set the bullseye, that way I could get it just right and hold it while it set. I think if I had used less stain in the mix it wouldn't have been so dark around the bullseye, but it was my first time with a repair like this. I thought it came out OK.

 

I've used wood filler and stain and gotten pretty close, but you can still tell it's been filled. I use a stainable filler and pre-stain it to match. I like Doc's approach to using epoxy and oil-based stain. I would mix up several samples with different proportions to try to get the closest color match. Take a piece of waxed paper, put the same amount of epoxy in several spots, and add increasing amounts of stain. Mix and let them set and then compare them to the stock to match. Exact is hard to achieve, but a little darker would be better than a little lighter. If the stock is going to require a refinish, do that after the bullseye has been sanded in - it will even out the finish.

 

Mark, just a thought, do you know someone who could cut a plug of walnut for you. The plug should be slightly larger that the hole is now, then drill the hole to proper size and glue plug in. When the glue has set shape , sand and finish the plug. Problem with folks who use the bullseye for a sling stud location is they should not be allowed to own Marlins. Good luck, take care, John.

 

I think glockmeister has it right, re-drill the hole with a Forstener type bit and plug the hole. Then re-drill the bullseye hole.
Another option is send it to me and I will do it for you. If you pay shipping. :biggrin:

 

John,
l've always thought the bullseye was the perfect place to put the sling swivel . lt's just always done wrong. Bullseye needs to first be removed then securely plugged without enlarging hole.The swivel will hide any evidence of a plug . Then install swivel. lf you ever change your mind down the road , or another owner, drill plug exact size of bullseye ,and reinstall bullseye, stock looks like it did from the factory.
lf you're thinking you couldn't possibly take out the bullseye because it didn't come that way, then you have no business installing a swivel.

 

Drill the hole a little larger yet, have a piece of round stock aluminum turned to the right size and bored for the bullseye. Might be a nice look a bullseye with silver ring. Just a thought.

 

Two other thoughts:

Brownells' sells brown action bedding epoxy.

I have repaired dings in dark woods with just clear epoxy. The wood color shows through to a degree and often makes a very inconspicuous repair.

Those things said, if it was mine, I'd overbore it and plug it with a matched walnut plug (plug cutters are sold by woodworking suppliers) and then reset the bull's eye. The challenge would be to do all the drilling concentrically.

 

OK, I've installed the bullseye and it doesn't look too bad. First, the stock does need to be refinished as an earlier owner tried to refinish the stock but kept the stock on the rifle and did not remove the grip cap or buttplate. When I got the rifle I had to remove some finish from the receiver right next to the wood. That said, I used Minwax Stainable Wood Filler and Minwax Red Oak stain. I let the stain sit and stay wet for 40 minutes before wiping. Looking at the color I may have been able to get a slightly better match using Minwax Red Chestnut stain. It may blend better once the entire stock is refinished.

What do you think?

Mark

 

Very nice, Mark! You can see it, but it isn;t at all objectionable. Very good work. Besides, if anybody ever asks or points it out, you;ve got a story for them.

It's really a shame the previous owner (or whomever before him maybe) ended up doing that. That buttstock looks like it's got some beautiful figure to it!

 

You might take a very fine point black pen and put some matching grain marks on the filled wood - it might help give the filler some look of having a grain rather than being solid.

 

considering what you had to start with,I could live with that.Nice job

 

l think it looks great. sides l never pick up a Marlin and turn it over and check out the bullseye anyway. Good job.

 

Anybody ever just cut a cross grain plug and fill their bullseye? I am thinking about getting rid of the bullseye in my 1895cb it just doesnt look right on this rifle.

 

One of my 336 have the swivel in the bulleye........ Where do you get a new bulleye???:hmmmm:

 

VTDW did have a bunch of them. You might PM him and see if he still has some. Fom

 

Numrich Arms, eBay, I think Midway and on this forum in the For Sale section from the main page.

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/o.../forum/other-sale-wanted-trade-give-away-items/75161-marlin-bullseyes-sale.html

Mark

 

.

Brownell's sells the bullseye.

 

Get 2 bullseyes here from Gunjunkie http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/o.../forum/other-sale-wanted-trade-give-away-items/75161-marlin-bullseyes-sale.html

 

I have a number of plug cutters in my shop and can cut plugs of 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" up to 1" in length.

I will be happy to make one or more plugs in any of these sizes if it will help out and send them to you if you drop me a PM with your address. I have plenty of walnut scraps in my woodshop to work with as well as an array of other domestic and exotic hardwoods.

As suggested earlier, if I was going to drill out the hole so I could replug it , I would use a forstener bit instead of a twist drill or spade bit. Having said that, if there is an irregular hole in the stock from a prior installation, it might be helpful to first glue in a smaller plug or fill it with epoxy so that the pilot tip on the forstener will run true and you can make a good new hole for your replacement walnut plug. Did that make any sense? Easy to do but hard to describe I guess :hmmmm:.

Let me know if I can make one or more walnut plugs for you and the diameter you want and I will knock them out. Won't take 15 minutes.

Regards, TallGrass

 

What a nice gesture from another fine MO member. Fom

 

Any excuse to get out into the workshop :biggrin:

 

Looks OK. You are the only one that will notice the repair.

 

I take the inside of the forearm or some sandings from inside the buttstock where the attachment screw goes through (sand on the inside). The you have matching color wood. Mix the fine sanding wood with elmers wood glue --- put the wood glue in the hole, add the centered bullseye. Let dry, then lightly sand off the excess. Should be a match colorwise.