Yes...

Use the same rem oil you have been using, once you oil everything up, WIPE IT ALL BACK OFF leaving only a tiny thin microscopic layer of the rem oil you can't see. The key here is to have the gun clean and virtually oil free. There will be no cold thick oil to slow your guns action down, meaning it will function in any temp flawlessly. Guns are designed to work with no oil, most use WAY TOO MUCH, then they have issues and wonder why.

Clean all the old oil OUT, make the gun spotless clean. Spray some rem oil LIGHTLY on a cotton rag. WIPE down all metal. Go hunting/shooting. Try it, it will work! You will use way less oil, you will save money! You will have a functioning firearm too.

DR

 

0W-20W Mobil One. For absolute Arctic conditions graphite powder used sparingly. My Browning Take Down Auto in the wimpy .22 short, delicate and anemic to say the least functioned fine in a 15 degree blizzard using it.

I started a thread years ago, lots of info and opinions from forum members:

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/g...um/general-gun-related-off-topic-stuff/88719-synthetic-motor-oils-firearms.html

AC

 

Alaskan Cold Weather Gun Lube test - Survivalist Forum

Cold Weather Firearms Lube Test.
Negative 20 to Negative 65 F.

Shooter Choice FP-10 Works very well in ARs and bolt guns, pistols. Good to-50

Terta Gun Lube Thicker, works well on crew full auto weapons, stays on bolt carriers longer. Smells like the trunk of an old car.

Mil Issue Arctic Brake Fluid Worked well on M-2HB and M-240 at 56-65 below zero. Ate away frozen break-free

G-96 Gun treatment, spray can Comes as a spray, very light, bolts guns and pistols to -65. Does not leave a thick coat. Does not collect carbon deposits. Has a nice smell.....

Penn Synthetic Reel Oil P/N 92340 VERY, Very Fluid, Extremely slippery good to -65, can get into primers.....

G-96 synthetic Grease: Comes in a syringe pen. About the same as aircraft armorers missile rail grease. It stayed the same down to 50 below . very good for bolt rollers and other parts that might lose oil.


Marvel Mystery Oil .................... Very fluid, Very slippery good to -40 Burns off with excessive heat. Will clean lead from bores.

3 in 1 Oil Fairly fluid, somewhat slippery gums at -20

LPS-2 Fairly Fluid, somewhat slippery gums at -20

Klean-Bore Formula 3 Some separation, fairly fluid, somewhat slippery

Tri-Flow Separated, does not adhere or film on metal

Break-Free Separated, somewhat tacky and semi syrup like

Mil-Tech Thick, somewhat tacky, syrup like

Outers Gun Oil Very thick syrup. Tacky

Mil spec MIL4-46000c Lube Oil Separated, some was in thick jell state.

Rem Oil Thick jell, tacky

Boe Shield T-9 Thick Jell, tacky, leaves a waxy coating

Corrosion X HD Thick jell, tacky

Ballistol very thick jell. Separation

Exxon Elite 20-50 Syn Av Oil Very Thick, glue like

AeroShell 15-50 Semi Syn Av Oil Very thick, glue like

 

How cold is cold? Any regular old gun oil works here in Wisconsin. Might be different in Alaska, or northern Minnesota, even. Then I'd probably go with Mobil 1, or even no oil at all.

 

Gun owners need to get gun oil out of their head. Guns are not heavy machinery, they are not car trucks or trains. All guns are designed to operate with NO oils at all! All a gun ever needs is a microscopic layer of lubrication you can't even see. Most guns are ruined by us using too much......here it comes...... OIL

 

I use Lucas synthetic gun oil and only a drop or 2 will lube any rifle , pistol , or revolver in my possession. Too much oil is your not your gun's friend except when you break in a new AR, I have found they like to be run wet on breakin. IMHO

 

I have been using G-96 Spray since the 70's, It does a nice job of displacing water and protecting against rust. Never had a problem with freeze up since I started using it.

 

Everyone should watch these two no matter how boreing.

DR

 

Back in WW2, the Ruskies used a mixture of oil and gas to make sure their rifles functioned in the Russian winter.
Rifles were designed to use no oil, so whatever is used it could freeze up in cold climates.
I boil all the oil out of my rifle bolts, I then add just enough quality gun oil to keep any rust out.

 

Outpost75, Do you have an performance measurements on Ballistol? I have never had any issues down to 10 Fahrenheit. I usually do not go shooting when it gets colder than that. Cold is very relative term. What is cold in southern Maine is not cold in northern Maine. What is cold in northern Maine is "get them cows in the barn cold" in southern Maine.

I missed it in the list on first pass. Thanks for great piece of info!

 

Outpost75, Do you have an performance measurements on Ballistol? I have never had any issues down to 10 Fahrenheit. I usually do not go shooting when it gets colder than that. Cold is very relative term. What is cold in southern Maine is not cold in northern Maine. What is cold in northern Maine is "get them cows in the barn cold" in southern Maine. I missed it in the list on first pass. Thanks for great piece of info!

Ballistol was tested at APG back in the 1980s and in their standard battery of tests it failed in the sand, mud and dust tests as well as in the cold box.
I know the RCMP also tested it at their facility in Regina, Sask. and they don't use it, but in their cold weather use the NATO equivalent of VVL-800.

 

I don't happen to use that Rem-oil, but don't use anything different than normal in cold weather, but not sure what temps you are talking about here? My thoughts were running along similar lines as above that perhaps you're over-doing it, and have too much on/in your rifles? Try wiping it off during the hunt, and then redo as required after, storage, etc.
Just for info, used to manufacture weapons for military use, and only a few customers/orders for certain forces that routinely operated in temps of 40 below or greater got a special/different oil/grease, etc. Good luck to you...

 

Gun owners spend in reverse order. They spend hundreds on solvents and oils, then pennies on gun cleaning patches/clothes. REVERSE THAT process and you will be one of the very few doing it correctly. More wiping clean, less solvents and oils. It's really not about which brand you choose to use.

Its not as glamorous.... but your guns will love you for it and operate when you need them too.

DR

 

LSA in cold weather, LSA medium in the heat.

It worked in Nam, and in Germany. Never had a firearm fail. Good enough for me.

 

A light coat of Slip2000 synthetic gun oil. GTG

 

Break Free works great in all weather conditions that I encounter in the North East.

 

when I was a kid my daddy was a new car salesman for chevy, he won a gun and gave it to me! it was my first new real rifle. it was a model 100 Winchester 243 automatic. one day my daddy caught me oiling it up! he explained, "with authority" gns did not need that much oil, especially and automatic.

 

I don't boil bolts. I shoot them up good with brake clean and then finish with spray carb cleaner. Does the same job and you don't have to worry about the water/moisture factor.