An old man gave me this rifle
I know it’s an 8 mm Mauser but aside from that not much else
It has 1937 stamped on top of the reciever.
navajo
An old man gave me this rifle
I know it’s an 8 mm Mauser but aside from that not much else
It has 1937 stamped on top of the reciever.
Ceskosloveska 8mm mauser
2 reading
An old man gave me this rifle
I know it’s an 8 mm Mauser but aside from that not much else
It has 1937 stamped on top of the reciever.
Attachments
I was thinking that this might make a good pig gun.....but my eyes aren't what they used to be, so it would have to be in fairly close. Anybody else have one of these, or hunt with an 8mm?
Had a Turkish Mauser converted from an original Spanish 1893 7mm they converted into 8mm awhile back during the same time frame. The 8mm mauser round is a venerable cartridge in general and is definitely hunting worthy for anything in the lower 48. Pull the receiver off and see if it has a date stamp as the 1937 may be when it was re-arsenaled. I doubt any pig would go very far after retrieving a bullet from it.
I have three, one pre-invasion, one post-German invasion and one post-ww2
broadly speaking, historically I can tell you that the lateral writing indicates its production prior to the German supervision of the factory, after which the Czechoslovenska side writing would have been eliminated, as the area would have lost this name and would have become the protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia_ The Germans however, they used Belgium and Czechoslovakia and Switzerland well before the 2WW, to produce licensed weapons and to circumvent the constraints of the Versailles Treaty.
Technically it is a K98 Mauser of the best quality, qualitatively equal if not superior to the Geman K98k.. if in good shape, even more accurate, imho. This said, for the models before and even after the German invasion. it requires a little attention in handloading, because some features, but not the robustness and intrinsic reliability, make it suitable for charges slightly less powerful than the German ones.( it is something that has to do with land & grooves, different in some ways from those adopted by the Germans, but not with the nominal diameter of the barrel, always in .323 / 8mauser. in any case it is possible to reach unexpected pressure peaks which it is preferable to avoid )_
You have to be careful when disassembling the wooden barrel cover, relatively delicate compared to the K98k, because it is held by a very strong elastic spring which, if improperly stressed, can crack the wood of the barrel cover with which it is integral.
about the sights, I don't know your age or your needs, but I have tried and managed to improve mine without damaging the rifles.
I wouldn't want to clog the tread further, but if you have more specific questions, maybe I can answer them. Otherwise, the most reliable information can be found on the.K98kforum.com site, which has tolerated my ignorance for years with an indulgence comparable only to yours, here_
(...congrats !)
broadly speaking, historically I can tell you that the lateral writing indicates its production prior to the German supervision of the factory, after which the Czechoslovenska side writing would have been eliminated, as the area would have lost this name and would have become the protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia_ The Germans however, they used Belgium and Czechoslovakia and Switzerland well before the 2WW, to produce licensed weapons and to circumvent the constraints of the Versailles Treaty.
Technically it is a K98 Mauser of the best quality, qualitatively equal if not superior to the Geman K98k.. if in good shape, even more accurate, imho. This said, for the models before and even after the German invasion. it requires a little attention in handloading, because some features, but not the robustness and intrinsic reliability, make it suitable for charges slightly less powerful than the German ones.( it is something that has to do with land & grooves, different in some ways from those adopted by the Germans, but not with the nominal diameter of the barrel, always in .323 / 8mauser. in any case it is possible to reach unexpected pressure peaks which it is preferable to avoid )_
You have to be careful when disassembling the wooden barrel cover, relatively delicate compared to the K98k, because it is held by a very strong elastic spring which, if improperly stressed, can crack the wood of the barrel cover with which it is integral.
about the sights, I don't know your age or your needs, but I have tried and managed to improve mine without damaging the rifles.
I wouldn't want to clog the tread further, but if you have more specific questions, maybe I can answer them. Otherwise, the most reliable information can be found on the.K98kforum.com site, which has tolerated my ignorance for years with an indulgence comparable only to yours, here_
(...congrats !)
Thanks man, I surely appreciate your info. Please go on if you like. I can’t find any hunting ammo for it at the moment. But eventually I hope to. The sights I believe I can manage out to 80 yards or so.
sights: the front side hood, if still present, is easily removable and does nothing to improve the acquisition_ the triangular v-inverted front sight is was curse for my eyes, but it can be easily replaced with the mil.Swedish Mauser/Husky/C.G.. f.s.._ the Swedish military front sights are available w. squared profiles, multiple heights and thicknesses, available aftermarket, too_they are a must for practical use_
oem rear sight, v-notch, should be squared and enlarged accordingly, with a small file, or replaced with a donor piece to be modified as above. spare parts are available at low prices, and often also Yugo r.s. they can work, albeit a little rough in manufacture.
American ammunition was traditionally undercharged to avoid damaging old gew.98 chambered in 8mm/.318, but if you reload, even with 200grs. Sierra match HBPT, at 150 meters the pig is dead meat.
Lee molds are or were available in .324-175grs. gas-check ( or .329-205grs.g.c. easy to draw at .323, but my experiments often open a can of w., moly included) _ for the powders I have anyone's tables available, but personally I reloaded for target-comp, within my limits, and only with Vihtavuori and Norma when available, so I imagine that my recipes are of little practical use around there_
Mil.surp. ammmo they can vary a lot, with unpredictable results, but I
would open another painful chapter of memories_
where useful, I remain available
oem rear sight, v-notch, should be squared and enlarged accordingly, with a small file, or replaced with a donor piece to be modified as above. spare parts are available at low prices, and often also Yugo r.s. they can work, albeit a little rough in manufacture.
American ammunition was traditionally undercharged to avoid damaging old gew.98 chambered in 8mm/.318, but if you reload, even with 200grs. Sierra match HBPT, at 150 meters the pig is dead meat.
Lee molds are or were available in .324-175grs. gas-check ( or .329-205grs.g.c. easy to draw at .323, but my experiments often open a can of w., moly included) _ for the powders I have anyone's tables available, but personally I reloaded for target-comp, within my limits, and only with Vihtavuori and Norma when available, so I imagine that my recipes are of little practical use around there_
Mil.surp. ammmo they can vary a lot, with unpredictable results, but I
would open another painful chapter of memories_ where useful, I remain available
Brian--I have a Yugoslavian Zastava Mod 48 8mm Mauser---its much like your rifle--made on German machinery with German trained personnel for the most part. It likes a 195 gr Hornady Interlock SP bullet over a near max load of IMR-4064. Very accurate at 50 yards and 100 yards but with my bad eyes----I would only use it hunting in an open area with good light. The rifle with the iron sights is way more accurate than what I can see. That 8mm Mauser would definitely be a hog stomper of a cartridge.
Ok, my 2 cents worth....
Your Mauser, is one of the best contract Mausers ever made.
It is VZ24 Czech made Mauser, in 7.92x57mm (8mm Mauser).
The factory in Brno, which is now in Slovakia, was a top notch facility, and tasked by Mauser Works, to produce military arms to the world, because of the restrictive laws set by the Versailles Treaty against German made weapons. It is one, if not the best, made Mauser rifles, and as strong, if not stronger than any German made rifles.
The cartridge itself, is still a popular cartridge in Europe, for hunting many game animal. Over there, it is equivalent in popularity to our .30-06!
If tou handload, the 8mm Mauser cartridge is very close in power to our .30-06, abd can take the game as the .30-06. To say the least, it's no slouch!
Your bore, should mike at .323, and shouldn't have any problem finding any .323 bullets, well except, under current circumstances.
I would caution that there is machine gun ammo still out there on the surplus market that is quite stout to shoot, so be aware that it is belted, and still could be corrosive.
But, and surplus ammo made after the 1950's is non-corrosive.
I know Winchester, Remington, and Federal made ammo, which is quite weak, because of the older WW1 and prior Mauser barrels that miked to .318.
Hawk
Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk
Your Mauser, is one of the best contract Mausers ever made.
It is VZ24 Czech made Mauser, in 7.92x57mm (8mm Mauser).
The factory in Brno, which is now in Slovakia, was a top notch facility, and tasked by Mauser Works, to produce military arms to the world, because of the restrictive laws set by the Versailles Treaty against German made weapons. It is one, if not the best, made Mauser rifles, and as strong, if not stronger than any German made rifles.
The cartridge itself, is still a popular cartridge in Europe, for hunting many game animal. Over there, it is equivalent in popularity to our .30-06!
If tou handload, the 8mm Mauser cartridge is very close in power to our .30-06, abd can take the game as the .30-06. To say the least, it's no slouch!
Your bore, should mike at .323, and shouldn't have any problem finding any .323 bullets, well except, under current circumstances.
I would caution that there is machine gun ammo still out there on the surplus market that is quite stout to shoot, so be aware that it is belted, and still could be corrosive.
But, and surplus ammo made after the 1950's is non-corrosive.
I know Winchester, Remington, and Federal made ammo, which is quite weak, because of the older WW1 and prior Mauser barrels that miked to .318.
Hawk
Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk
the weight of the two-stage trigger can have very variable values. the surfaces are hardened, so any intervention on the surfaces must eventually be limited to a very delicate polishing, beyond which the hardening leaves, opening the door to disappointing results. lightening the trigger weight is possible but requires another type of surgery, or the replacement with a single stage Timney, which often requires clearance. modification (dremel) inside of the stock _
Wolff produced excellent dedicated bolt springs of different weights, among which I have always favored the strongest ones available, coupled with a modified trigger, to be within the values allowed by our regulations.
I kept the tightening values of the screws of the action are around 2.5 - 3.0 ft. lbs. but, before any torque decision, it's advisable checking that the rear screw is supported by its ferrule, the small metal tube inside which it slides in the stock, which is sometimes lost, or never mounted as in factory post-war sloppier specimens _ hope can help_
Wolff produced excellent dedicated bolt springs of different weights, among which I have always favored the strongest ones available, coupled with a modified trigger, to be within the values allowed by our regulations.
I kept the tightening values of the screws of the action are around 2.5 - 3.0 ft. lbs. but, before any torque decision, it's advisable checking that the rear screw is supported by its ferrule, the small metal tube inside which it slides in the stock, which is sometimes lost, or never mounted as in factory post-war sloppier specimens _ hope can help_
Navajo,
My Mauser is a German made in 1940.
I have only used Privi Partizan 8mm in it, but it shoots good groups for the type of sights it has. I will wouldn't hesitate to hunt any North American game animal with it.
Andrew
My Mauser is a German made in 1940.
I have only used Privi Partizan 8mm in it, but it shoots good groups for the type of sights it has. I will wouldn't hesitate to hunt any North American game animal with it.
Andrew
Thank you all for the informative replies.
An old man I give squirrels and hogs to (i harvest way more of both than we can eat) insisted i take this rifle...
The exposed end of the barrel is a bit corroded, but the action is tight, and the bore is shiney.,very shiney.
I do not have any ammo, but hopefully i can get some. I have some stands set up fpor a 50-80 yard shot so i am eager to try it.
I don't think i will try to take it down until i do some research. Honestly, i may just give it a rub down and leave it alone.
I like this old girl....it shoulders well.
Oh,
He said someone in his family sent it home from the war. I believe it, it has a name crudely carved into the stock....but i can't understand it. It looks to have been carried in battle what with all the scratches on it and such.
An old man I give squirrels and hogs to (i harvest way more of both than we can eat) insisted i take this rifle...
The exposed end of the barrel is a bit corroded, but the action is tight, and the bore is shiney.,very shiney.
I do not have any ammo, but hopefully i can get some. I have some stands set up fpor a 50-80 yard shot so i am eager to try it.
I don't think i will try to take it down until i do some research. Honestly, i may just give it a rub down and leave it alone.
I like this old girl....it shoulders well.
Oh,
He said someone in his family sent it home from the war. I believe it, it has a name crudely carved into the stock....but i can't understand it. It looks to have been carried in battle what with all the scratches on it and such.
yeah, i hear you Man, but I am a little apprehensive... I haven't put my glasses on and looked it over real closely. I can't quite tell how these barrel bands are held on. I just don't want to break nothing.
Okay, so I looked at a video on Mausers i found online. Took my bifocals and cleaned them up and dug into this thing.....simple enough. I didn't break the top forearm.
The rifle is in quite good shape. I worried the outside of the end of the barrel would be pitted but it wasn't.
All cleaned up and ready now.....just need some ammo. My LGS has some but it's FMJ.....i guess at least with that i could shoot it. If i can find 323 bullets i could make hunting ammo from that.
In all honesty,
I really don't mind the the trigger or the sights. I think a dab of white paint on the front blade would work. I used to do that with my 22 whin i was a kid.
The rifle is in quite good shape. I worried the outside of the end of the barrel would be pitted but it wasn't.
All cleaned up and ready now.....just need some ammo. My LGS has some but it's FMJ.....i guess at least with that i could shoot it. If i can find 323 bullets i could make hunting ammo from that.
In all honesty,
I really don't mind the the trigger or the sights. I think a dab of white paint on the front blade would work. I used to do that with my 22 whin i was a kid.
Hey Navaho, the Gunboards Forum has info on Czech Mausers. I just went through this with a Belgian Mauser, lots of good info over there. The Czech Weapons Board
There's lots of really good info on this thread to absorb, whether new or old. My M700 Rem likes the 170-185 at near max with 4064. Brass can be formed from 30-06 with a trim die, saw and regular dies. If reloading, spring for the x-die and trimming will be kept to a minimum. The VZ 24 is, in my humble opinion, the king of the 98 mauser types. Enjoy!
VZ24 Lion Crest Purchase
Finally found a VZ24 in a pawn shop in southern KY. In good shape, with a bright shiny bore. I think it is a 1939 manufacture based on the acceptance stamp on left side of receiver (see pic) but not sure as from my reading the Germans took over production in ‘38 and changed some features that...
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