I've removed two barrels so far. Besides the fact that they took a little heat to remove and in excess of 200 lbs/ft of torque, there was nothing special about it. They are threaded and with the proper barrel wrench, no problem at all.

 

Thanks, that was the info I needed.

 

Just a note for info, I've read that some Marlins have had a thin shim installed between the barrel and receiver during assembly, and to look for that to make sure it is not lost or damaged during the barrel rework. If it does have a shim, make sure it gets put back in place or you may have head space issues. I don't recall all the details off-hand, or how common it is in any models, but would be something like a few thousands thick or so if having one. Good luck to you.

 

I'll pass along that info. Thanks.

 

Even though it's relatively the same as any other action/barrel removal, damage can be easily be done without proper thinking. First, an index mark should be placed to easily return the barrel to it's original position. I use a barrel vise and a universal action wrench with the head reversed along with brass shims. Masking tape is also applied to the action. Brass shims and tape are a bit overkill but I do not like scratches. I milled out an aluminum block to fit inside a gutted receiver for support to preventing twisting or bending of the action. If the action is not gutted, the extractor should be removed and the bolt backed out just enough to clear the chamber hood. The lever could just be fully opened to get the bolt all the way back, but I want as much support inside the action as possible.

 

My gunsmith doesn't remove the barrel to shorten and crown.....He does an absolutely great job.......try another gunsmith.......

 

Gut weapon and reinstall floor and tighten all three screws, front bottom, side and rear hammer. I use thin cardboard (cartridge box, back of notebook stuff) to protect finish on receiver. I also take very sharp punch and hit in corner of barrel/receiver juncture for return to point confirmation index mark. Clean with acetone and Blue 242 Loctite back on tighten. You should by hand feel it hit somewhere about 7 to 10 degrees on hand tight for proper torque. If you are only irons you can square from top of receiver and use dovetail of rear sight for check. Yes it can be done without removal, I like to put 11 degrees on mine. If you have all the right stuff and is no big deal, trying without proper tools will lead to tears!

 

I am wondering if the action could be stripped and the barrel inserted into the lathe with the action hanging out the back, so no need to remove.

I am considering doing it myself. I saw a barrel crowning tool for a pre 64 Garand. I just need to find out what contour the pre 64 Garand has.

 

This is possible if the lathe headstock is short enough for the barrel to reach past the chuck jaws. About 20 inches on my smallest lathe. Some bolt action receivers can
fit into the spindle a little ways but not a lever action.

 

Date of barrel non issue, .300", .301", 302" bore? That is the issue, pilot must fit correctly or ugly crown will be had.

 

I was under the impression the crown contour must have changed in 1964 (for the Garand) since they offered a crowning tool that specified pre 64 Garand.

 

Maybe I'll look around for another smithy.

 

Crowning a muzzle can be quite the controversial subject. It all comes down to the end result being good enough or the best possible. I cannot see the latter accomplished without removing the barrel and using a lathe, but a lot of guys get the the heebie jeebies with even the thought of the barrel coming off. Dave Manson probably has the next best alternative. Below is a link to a video showing his product.

BuffaloBob, the link to this video might be just what your Garand needs.

 

Gooooooooleee sergeant Carter! That there is some fancy cuttin'. I re-crowned my bur'l with a brass screw, a drill and some valve grinding compound I had left from a valve job on a 94 Honda VFR 800. Chizam!

I recon it choots good 'nuff at 100 yards.

 

Ok, my smithy is just going to cut and square the barrel tomorrow morning. He can do this on the gun without removing the barrel. Then I will use the brass screw method to slightly crown the barrel.

 

I just had mine recrowned. I didn't remouve the receiver, I just pulled the little screw and watever it holds in (a spring and a little point???) then tried by hand and when nothing turned I read that barrel removal is not reccomended. The smit took 4 months to jig and recrown and I can't remember what goes where.
I'm talking about the screw, spring and point, not stripping the mecanism.:hmmmm:

 

Sounds frustrating. I have heard it is hard to find a good gunsmith in certain European countries.

You probably overlooked it but you just revived a 3+ year old thread. The OP never made an update so I wonder how he did lol.

 

no need to remove a barrel to cut and crown it,,,,,,,,,,,

 

I would NOT remove the Barrel for re-crowning.

When the barrel is first installed, the threads may stretch a bit in the last 5-7 degrees, and so the barrel may not torque up properly at re-assembly so the use of a barrel shim will be required.

How many North Haven barreled receivers have a shim?...................probably less than 8%........no, you can't really see it.

With a little care and skill, a very good crown can be had with a hand operated crown cutter.

Tom

 

Oups! just turned the receiver arround and found that it all goes in from the front!