I have used Fiebing's Leather Dye, medium red, greatly diluted with alcohol. Experiment on scrap wood until you get it just right.

 

5+coats boiled linseed oil.I have used as many as 30.Keep each coat light and wipe dry,2 days dry time between coats.

 

No stain!

 

Winchester used stains to get the look they wanted based on the darkness of the wood. Then sealers and either lacquer with a wax base (for a soft look) or a blend of tung and linseed oil. Even then, colors varied. As black walnut became harder to get, the quality, density, and darkness of the wood varied as younger trees with more sapwood were cut. Below is a picture of all original Winchester .22's. You can see the variations in the finish.

Being as the wood and finish materials are different today, you'll have to experiment as stated above to find a blend that works with your stock material. Do your testing on the inside of the forearm and other hidden areas if you don't have scraps.

 

I've done a lot of gunsmith work /repairs on Winchester's for over 30 years. Some of my favorites are John Kay's Pre 64 Winchester red oil . And Phil Pilkington's Pre64 Red Brown classic

John Kay made his stain off a recipe from a Winchester custom shop employee from years ago. And you can match about any variation of Winchester stock from that era.

During that era Winchester used a stain and grain filling mixture to fill pours and give the red brown color.

The finish however from late 30's through pre 64 was Nitrocellulose Laquer sprayed on.

Model 94 's , 71's ,63's, 64's had somewhat of a shiney finish .

There were some variations in sheen though . Anything from satin to very shiney .I had a new model 71 from 1947 it had high gloss shine with Nitrocellulose.

Have model 62A in 50's same way very shiney and 1948 model 94 same way high gloss. All 100% factory finishes .

Most of the time though the Nitro wears off leaving what people think is a satin oil finish but in reality the top coat of lacquer is gone.

Many of the 61,'s,62's,63,s 94's end up that way from use.

You could easily write a book on Winchester gunstock finishes because of the enormous amount variations.

Most don't realize Winchester used in house sub contractors to finish gunstocks until 1930's . Each had their own formulas.

 

I use boiled linseed oil and a product called Japan dryer it really helps got mine at hardware store now you probably get it on line.do many light coats do not rush drying time

 

Can you post John Kay formula?

 

John retired but sold his recipe and is available several places. It us a wet sanding oil. Using the woods own flour to fill pours. Stopping when you have the look you want.
The oil is cut 2:1 with mineral spirits . This type finish you never have to worry about dust or debris settling. And by building layer after layer of thin oil you can have any sheen desired.

Pilkington is very similier results.

Stock Oil Winchester Restorations 4 oz Original and Reproduction Firearm Gun Parts Winchester, HOMESTEAD GUN PARTS, Specializing in Old Winchester

Original and Reproduction Firearm Gun Parts Winchester Stock Oil Winchester Restorations 4 oz - This is the original Winchester Pre-64 Stock Oil developed, used and sold by John Kay in his Winchester Restorations Business for many years. John Kay was a master restorer of old Winchester guns and...

homesteadparts.com

 

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil

 

Wasn't John Kay the singer for Steppinwolf?

 

Wow! Loys of good information here. Thank you, one and all. Once I get into the sanding/finishing of the new stock set, I guess I'll decide from there. The wood work looks like it will be a winter project. I already have boiled linseed oil, as well as Tru-Oil.

Even though the original stock on the rifle is damaged to the point it shouldn't be shot, I did pick up a somewhat rough buttstock at a gun show two weeks ago that, while not in the best of shape, is still better than the one that came on the rifle.

Thanks again.

 

True oil is a good top coat especially when thinned with mineral spirits and rubbed in thin applying multi coats. Right out of the bottle it's a very shiney polymer type finish .
It has a lot of drying agents.

If you use it you'll have to stain the walnut using an alcohol or spirit stain. Pilnkington Red Brown classic spirit stain is close pre64 color . And any good oil over it will yield good results.

True oil by itself over walnut will not look anything like factory stock . Winchester always colored it's stocks and depending on era they are very different.

All in all you cannot beat John Kay's Winchester Red Oil. You wet sand the stock with the cut oil ,once pours are semi filled you apply many coats of the thinned oil which saturated and eventually builds a layer of oil in a satin sheen . You can apply true oil thinned over it for a close to the lacquer look.

After cured you can polish with rotten stone and oil and create any look Winchester used.

Winchester post war stocks are generally show some open pours at times not completely filled and usually some light sanding marks can sometimes be seen through finish .In other words not prefect.

Stock of prewar were much better finished
Shellac was used up until switch to Nitrocellulose laquer .

Thinned orange cut shellac with terpentine can give a nice final coat but more subjective to dust than the John Kay or other thinned oils.

You can still use Nitrocellulose Laquer in spray can over Pilnkington Red Brown classic spirit stain. But it's some nasty (health reasons)stuff . Make sure to wear mask /filters and good ventilation using it.

You can see this 1948 model 94 well used and 1955 model 62A both well used with worn finishes but you can see the Nitro lacquer shine ,some areas worn to bare stained wood.

 

Friday I can take pictures of some stocks with different finishes I use.

But a recap of the list I use

Stains(alcohol)

Pilkingtons Red Brown classic
R. Gale Lock Co. 1776 antique walnut
R. Gale Lock Co 1964 red brown
R. Gale Lock Co Early American



Oils
John Kay Winchester Red oil
Phil Pilkington Red Brown Classic
Phil Pilkington Red Brown Classic linseed rubbing oil

Real Milk Paint Pure Tung oil
True oil
Linpseed gunstock finish

Pure kettle boiled linseed oil

All or combinations of the products above can match pretty much any era of Winchester stock.

 

This 1892 stock set has Phil Pilkington Red Brown classic oil wet sanded and rubbed in many coats . Until a sheen is developed .
Similier to Winchesters Extra finish they called back in this era. This type finish takes about a month to achieve.

You start by wet sanding at 320, let set two days,repeat resting two days between sanding. Final couple landings with 400. Then wiping across grain to remove all traces of surface mud .

Then the application of thinned oil rubbed in takes place ,12-15 coats start to build on the surface.

Usually this type finish was reserved for fancy grain deluxe guns but not always.
When ordered it was called Extra Finish.

 

Comparison between 1936 94 carbine and 1948 model 94 carbine. Entirely two different looks.

 

My favorite Winchester stain was Tapaderas N35 Winchester Red. It matched what Winchester did extremely well, but after years of using it the two guys who made it passed away and it went extinct.
In May I was at the CGCA show in Greeley, Co. and a guy had a bunch of NOS bottles for sale, so I restocked with enough to ensure I wont run out before I too leave!

 

I remember seeing it but never tried any .

 

Thanks again! Definitely some serious information out there, and great suggestions. At this point, I think I'll look into Pilkingtons.

Did a quick internet search, and everything I find says "Discontinued". Anybody have any idea where to find Pilkington's?

Thanks again!

 

I haven't checked in a good while but it does appear something happened to the company.

John Kay Winchester Red Oil is just as good.And is used same way.

 

This is a custom Rossi 92 in black walnut. It has John Kay's Winchester Red oil. Wet sanded and then coats of thinned oil to build a sheen .