I'm just getting my feet wet with Marlins and wondering if there were particular production years that quality was better or worse. I know there are models and variations that are desirable for one reason or another, but I'm really wondering about quality. I know the "remlin" guns are questionable and the newer Marlins don't do much for me anyway, but if there are particular years where QC was exceptional I'd like to know what vintages to be looking for. The 336 that I own is a '77 and seems pretty well put together to me, but I have nothing to compare it too.
doowtag
I've owned 2 336s in my life. The first was about mid 70s model. It was seemingly perfect. The one I have now is a 2005 lowly "W". I can't find anything wrong with it either. Wood to metal fit is nice and tight, the rest of it looks exactly like the one I owned before. Both were/are spot on accurate, actions smooth and nice triggers. If I put a walnut stock on the "W" they would be identical twins.
I've talked to some really hardcore Marlin collectors and they were mostly interested in pre WW II guns, claiming they were the finest lever guns ever made, period. Prices on a lot of those guns, though, are out of my league.
Like most of us, here, our Marlins are all post WW 11. Our collection runs from late 40s Marlins up though 90s vintage Marlins. I have had some great examples and some okay examples from each decade, but tend to prefer the earlier guns up though the mid 70s or so for mostly sentimental reasons. Regardless of vintage, you really do need to inspect any gun, critically. I haven't seen a vintage in these decades that is a fool proof guarantee of a good fit and finish.
Like most of us, here, our Marlins are all post WW 11. Our collection runs from late 40s Marlins up though 90s vintage Marlins. I have had some great examples and some okay examples from each decade, but tend to prefer the earlier guns up though the mid 70s or so for mostly sentimental reasons. Regardless of vintage, you really do need to inspect any gun, critically. I haven't seen a vintage in these decades that is a fool proof guarantee of a good fit and finish.
BUY THE GUN - NOT THE STORY....
Because of the age of those old guns - there's considerable risk of abuse or "Fixing" at the hands of people who take pride in successfully wrecking otherwise fine guns (Of course, they never say it that way, but that's the results)...
With that in mind - you should always carefully evaluate the gun in your hands on it's actual merits before buying....
For example - can you recognize a trigger that's been monkeyed with? How about a gun where somebody has been inside the action "Smoothing it out" - and the Headspace and locking block timing is all out of whack... Can you recognize a loading gate that's been monkeyed with - and the rifle will "Load 2" every single time? Can you recognize a "Trumpet muzzle" from shooting over sand and grit? You get the idea....
For example - I picked up a 1948 336 RC for about $300. It's an awesome shooter and runs slick and smooth, but it's been drilled and tapped for scope (Which is good, because I like scopes, but bad for resale) ... The buttstock was poorly replaced sometime in the past - with "Standard 336" wood that's wrong in about 100% of the "Wood fitting" dimensions... The horribly done job was a total eyesore.... AND the finish on the metal is pretty thin... So far, I have about $150 in the buttstock replacement (It takes 36 wood, not 336 wood - which is thin on the ground) - so I had to get a semi-inlet stock, finishing kit, buttpad, screws, and all the rest.....
Now, from my own experience - some of the best built and shooting marlins I have EVER seen were the ones made from around 2000 till Marlin closed it's doors around 2011. Those rifles tended to be amazingly well fitted AND tremendous shooters....
Thanks
Because of the age of those old guns - there's considerable risk of abuse or "Fixing" at the hands of people who take pride in successfully wrecking otherwise fine guns (Of course, they never say it that way, but that's the results)...
With that in mind - you should always carefully evaluate the gun in your hands on it's actual merits before buying....
For example - can you recognize a trigger that's been monkeyed with? How about a gun where somebody has been inside the action "Smoothing it out" - and the Headspace and locking block timing is all out of whack... Can you recognize a loading gate that's been monkeyed with - and the rifle will "Load 2" every single time? Can you recognize a "Trumpet muzzle" from shooting over sand and grit? You get the idea....
For example - I picked up a 1948 336 RC for about $300. It's an awesome shooter and runs slick and smooth, but it's been drilled and tapped for scope (Which is good, because I like scopes, but bad for resale) ... The buttstock was poorly replaced sometime in the past - with "Standard 336" wood that's wrong in about 100% of the "Wood fitting" dimensions... The horribly done job was a total eyesore.... AND the finish on the metal is pretty thin... So far, I have about $150 in the buttstock replacement (It takes 36 wood, not 336 wood - which is thin on the ground) - so I had to get a semi-inlet stock, finishing kit, buttpad, screws, and all the rest.....
Now, from my own experience - some of the best built and shooting marlins I have EVER seen were the ones made from around 2000 till Marlin closed it's doors around 2011. Those rifles tended to be amazingly well fitted AND tremendous shooters....
Thanks
Good information by North Country Gal! Another thing to consider is what caliber rifle are you interested in buying? For example, the Marlin Model 1895 chambered in 45-70 was not always in production. Without looking up the mfg dates, Marlin started making them again in the mid 1970's. VERY nicely made rifles, I own several of them. It also depends on how much you can afford to spend. If you are low budget, you can pick up a good shooting 30-30 at reasonable prices in good conditon for $300 and up. 30-30's are as common as dirt. The ammo is inexpensive too.
Stick with JM stamped rifles instead of buying new ones made after the Freedom Group bought out both Marlin and Reminginton, Pre 2009.
Mike T.
Stick with JM stamped rifles instead of buying new ones made after the Freedom Group bought out both Marlin and Reminginton, Pre 2009.
Mike T.
I'm quite happy with the 336 in .35 Rem that I have..........I suppose my real question is are there years to be avoided? From what I'm reading here the QC was pretty consistent and that's good news. I know there are variations that I'd like to acquire, to include a waffle top, among others. It seems like I don't have to be too concerned about the vintage......the individual rifle will tell it's story. I'm happy to hear that the later JM rifles are of good quality, although I like a rifle with some patina and generally I'm attracted to older guns. I'm not, and will never be a serious collector, and will be happy to find some beaters to clean up and shoot if they're sound mechanically. I'm no gunsmith, but enjoy tinkering.
My best advice would be to not buy a remlin.........:biggrin:
2nd best advice would be to always take a good look at the JM Marlin you are about to purchase. I'm not aware of any year (much unlike cars or wines) to avoid................if were talking JM marlins anyway.
Common sense tells me you'll probably be fine as long as you take a look inside the barrel, cycle the action, and give it a good once over before committing to a purchase.
All my Marlins are 64 to 68 (with exception of one Model 39 TDS which was made in 89).....................All are fantastic, smooth, great fit and finish, no problems with 2 336 30-30's and 444...........and two model 39A's
I'd say the 60's years are solid...............based off the ones I own.
2nd best advice would be to always take a good look at the JM Marlin you are about to purchase. I'm not aware of any year (much unlike cars or wines) to avoid................if were talking JM marlins anyway.
Common sense tells me you'll probably be fine as long as you take a look inside the barrel, cycle the action, and give it a good once over before committing to a purchase.
All my Marlins are 64 to 68 (with exception of one Model 39 TDS which was made in 89).....................All are fantastic, smooth, great fit and finish, no problems with 2 336 30-30's and 444...........and two model 39A's
I'd say the 60's years are solid...............based off the ones I own.
All JM Marlins are good guns.But,we all have our own preferences.For instance,I prefer pre 1984(before cross bolt safeties).I also have a 1977 336.I agree that is put together pretty well.It's quality is comparable to all JM rifles.If you put that 77 next to a Remlin,you will immediately see the difference.Cycle the actions on both and you can tell the differance.As others have posted,if you stay away from the Relmlins ,you won't go wrong.
I'd agree with what truckjohn said...I was lucky enough to find my two JM Marlins in factory original condition, both made in 2005, both unfired, and both new in box condition, though one had two small dings in the stock from other guns bumping it in the dealer's safe. One I bought in 2010 and the other in 2014. I continue to run into like new or factory new JM Marlins for sale online, so they are out there. If it was me, especially buying online sight unseen without inspection, I'd go for one that was at least as new or like new in box condition. Takes all the guessing out of the purchase. If I was at a gun show or at a store and had time to inspect it really good in person, I'd be a lot more willing to buy a gun used if it met up with my standards. Of course, I'd also have fewer qualms about buying a used Marlin from the good people on this forum...:biggrin:
For any used rifle the main thing is, look them over real carefully. If things aren't quite right, walk away, or buy cheap.
I like all my Marlins--but the ones I own from the 1950s and 1960s seem to be a cut above for me. I think the wood was of better quality and I prefer the rounded edges on the receiver. To me--a little more "handfitted" craftsmanship went into these Marlins. But--you can't really gripe about the Marlins that came latter--much better craftsmanship in them than what is on the market today.
I prefer 1948 to 1972 when the round front site hood went away. I had to draw the line somewhere and 1972 seemed like a good place.:biggrin:
It doesn't appear that anyone so far is critical of Marlin quality in any years other than the Remlin years. That makes it a little easier for me. I'll still be looking for older ones for the most part, but good to know I shouldn't pass up newer guns if the price is right. My budget won't allow for anything fancy, but I'd like to pick up some examples of different eras and models. Thanx to all who've contributed to this thread.
If it has a JM stamp, no extra button safety, a lever, clean screwheads, and hasn't otherwise been monkeyed with, you'll have a good gun.
Some of the best guns in my possession were butt-ugly POS's when I bought 'em cheap... but they had good bores and clean screw heads, so nobody's been inside, and at least swabbed the bore now and then. Every one has been a true diamond in the rough.
My personal preference are the pre microgroove guns 1893 through about mid 1950's, but microgroove guns are tack drivers too so long as the bullet fits the bore. Luckily, it seems lever guns are less frequently owner-modified. These old Marlins were working man's tools for the field, not race guns. While I'd never drill and tap a virgin waffle top, there are plenty of nicely executed scope mounted guns of the era available if you're patient. I have a few and they are certainly
worth spending the time to find. Besides, you often get a good old steel bodied El Paso Weaver scope and vintage mounts in the deal!
Unless it was a true gimme gun, the only thing that drives me batty, running screaming into the darkness, is to come across a museum quality old gun, only to turn it over to find Uncle Bubba's name and ID numbers DEEPLY hack-etched on the back of the receiver with a vibro etching pen... and so poorly it was not legible anyway. AUUGHHH!! That's when I wish I had picked up an engraving skill to artistically cover sins of this nature. Gentle scrolls and stipple fills can work wonders.
Some of the best guns in my possession were butt-ugly POS's when I bought 'em cheap... but they had good bores and clean screw heads, so nobody's been inside, and at least swabbed the bore now and then. Every one has been a true diamond in the rough.
My personal preference are the pre microgroove guns 1893 through about mid 1950's, but microgroove guns are tack drivers too so long as the bullet fits the bore. Luckily, it seems lever guns are less frequently owner-modified. These old Marlins were working man's tools for the field, not race guns. While I'd never drill and tap a virgin waffle top, there are plenty of nicely executed scope mounted guns of the era available if you're patient. I have a few and they are certainly
worth spending the time to find. Besides, you often get a good old steel bodied El Paso Weaver scope and vintage mounts in the deal!
Unless it was a true gimme gun, the only thing that drives me batty, running screaming into the darkness, is to come across a museum quality old gun, only to turn it over to find Uncle Bubba's name and ID numbers DEEPLY hack-etched on the back of the receiver with a vibro etching pen... and so poorly it was not legible anyway. AUUGHHH!! That's when I wish I had picked up an engraving skill to artistically cover sins of this nature. Gentle scrolls and stipple fills can work wonders.
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