I have read where people have paid gunsmiths hundred + $ to take the sharp edges off new remington made marlins, truely a shame. I for one will never buy a remlin. There are people on this site that can direct you as to what action to take better than I can. If it were me I would get my money back and hunt for a JM stamped gun

 

You will need to just take the edge off of the loading gate sharp edges and touch it up with cold blue. I bought a Remlin 308MX and I had to strip is down to the bone to deburr the inside of it. It was real gritty. Some of the internal parts were so sharp it cut up my fingers just handling them. I decided to keep mine because it was a real straight shooter. I had to also glass bed the wood to fill in all the large gaps and fix an issue with the stock moving up and down. I found out why when I removed it----the hole for the tang bolt was drilled extra big (like double the size of the bolt) to make it fit because it was drilled off. I had to fill the hole with glass bedding and re-drill \ re-align the hole with the tang post bedding. The fore end was extra large and was not contoured to the receiver well---I ended up blending the fore end lines into the receiver just like how they did on older Marlins. Because of all that I had to refinish the wood but it ended up looking much nicer because I went with a straight True Oil finish. Bare in mind that I had to do this on a brand new gun right out of the box.

 

Went to sportsmans warehouse tuesday they had a 26 inch 4570 cb. Caught my eye instantly and looked it over. I was amazed that when i racked the lever and pulled trigger with tension on hammer, as to not dry fire, the hammer did not lower properly but was severely clunky and would not fall. It stuck half way and was a pain to get to fall into place. I worked it 4 or 5 times and after that many attempts began to fall smoothly. I was very sad to see this.
Is this due to sticky preservative for rust prevention, or just lousy quality control? Would disassembly, cleaning and oil solve this?

I am not buying, as my new 1895 limited is AWESOME, and is a world apart from this observed example of a new 1895cb. Mine is refined and all functions are top notch.

I was really rooting for a good feeling when i saw the cb on the shelf tuesday, but am left with a concerning experience, really just unbelievable. The gaps were extreme also. What a nice style and cool gun otherwise.

 

Demo40,

Two options:

1. Return are refund as previously suggested.
2. If you are handy, go to YouTube and learn how to take down the rifle. Any parts that your hands come in contact with, file and/or sand with 400 grit wet dry using oil to take the razor edges off the CNC machining left for you to experience. The current Marlin quality requires you to finish the parts.

Regardless, doing nothing will only cause pain for you and other that may wish to use the rifle.

My two cents.

 

Go ahead and soften the edge a bit, but unless it is "deep" scratched...don't worry about it! If it is lightly scored, tumbling will remove most of it. Steel wool, a case and and a drill were made to work together if you want your cases to look perfect. There are nickel cases that may reduce the loading gate's effect on the casing.

 

I've had a JM with a loading gate that would scratch or shave the case so it's not just REP's. Either follow the advise of prior posts repairing the gate or call Marlin and ask for tech. Convey the problem and they'll send you a new loading gate. Problem fixed.

Jack

 

Remember that the 45-70 is a big shell and they had to make a bulge in the mag tube for the nose of the round to make the bend from the loading gate into the mag tube. It is a tight fit so the brass will get some marks on it but it should not be shaving brass off. Check to see that all those areas where the 45-70 round will rub are smooth and deburr the edges on the end of the mag tube.

 

My 1980s 1895 did the same thing. I just took the sharp edge off with a dremmel with a small round stone. I then smoothed it up with some 600 grit sandpaper and touched it up with cold blue. Problem solved. Just be careful not to take off too much. All you need is to take the sharpness off and smooth it down.

 

It's a good idea to break your Marlin down for a good cleaning and apply a good rust preventive afterwards. I have done this to several JM Marlins some very old, some 80's, 90s year models that were never used or hardly ever used and the preservative was still thick and nasty inside, and lost of brown rusty looking gunk come from the metal from under the stocks and inside magazine tube etc.. It takes a little time to do this, but once you get it done unless it gets soaked or you really sop the oil on it should not need breaking down for a long time afterwards. I use Eezox and it turns the Marlin blue a deep dark black if the blueing is in decent shape..really does a great job and is dry so no worries of it running down and seeping into the stock behind the receiver. I also seal the inside of the forend when doing this using a wipe on poly, even the good old JM Marlins need this.

It's not a big deal to break the edge or corner of the loading gate with some fine automotive paper (get the value pack at autozone or walmart and start with one of the finest grits using water) and should take very little effort to do so if it's not damaged, I second the previous post on the reading of sticky about loading gate. I'm pretty sure even if Marlin was still running the show the end user would be dealing to some extent with break in of new lever action unless they changed it to plastic/polymer internal parts...myself I had rather break it in, break it down for a good cleaning and remove any burrs from machining after cycling, shooting as much as possible to visually see where burrs may interfere of moving parts, or as you mentioned loading gate etc..

 

:dito: That is some good advice. Tear down is not that hard and in a few minutes problem is solved.

 

*Ahem* Not a problem with the Henry mag tube. <cough> <cough> :wink:

 

.

rclint gives good advice, read and heed.

What is a Henry? It that one of Mattel's brands?

 

I would think you may want to work on the inside edge of the receiver at the front of the loading gate. With the needed bulge in the tube, to make the turn, and the spring of the loading gate pushing against it, I am guessing that is where the scratch is coming from. It will not take much, just take the sharp edge off on the inside, it will mean a tear down to get to it. Just remember it is a lot easier to take metal off, than put it on.
Have a great day.
JIM

 

excellent , she will come apart today .
I did look for threads concerning loading gate issues and got side tracked for hours on other threads , there is some amazing info here ......
thanks

 

It sounds like half of you are talking about the outside edge of the loading gate and half are talking about the inside edge of the receiver. I think both edges should broken, correct?

 

"I for one will never buy a remlin

............which for me is great - the line in front has just gotten shorter, thank you!

"Not a problem with the Henry mag tube"

...............ahem - because you have to load it the same way you did with your 22 as a kid - cough, cough.....

..my 1980s AND 90s AND early 2000s JM guns did the same -some not so much, some sharper than mother in-law tongues..

working off the edges "ain't" hard to do and it gives you an excuse for doing the complete disassembly/clean/lube you put off for too long anyways...

 

"I for one will never buy a remlin

............which for me is great - the line in front has just gotten shorter, thank you!

"Not a problem with the Henry mag tube"

...............ahem - because you have to load it the same way you did with your 22 as a kid - cough, cough.....

..my 1980s AND 90s AND early 2000s JM guns did the same -some not so much, some sharper than mother in-law tongues..

working off the edges "ain't" hard to do and it gives you an excuse for doing the complete disassembly/clean/lube you put off for too long anyways...

I have a tube-fed .22. I've also had a magazine-fed .22. Does that mean that my AR-15 is bad???

 

I reduced the inside edge of the receiver gate on my new SBL after I noticed the shaving. I did this by using 1500 wet/dry over a .5 inch dowel. It is not needed to remove metal. You are simply polishing the radius. To do this best you will need to disassemble the rifle. Remove the gate spring also and polish the outside edge while you are at it. Then take the gate spring and bend it, actually over bend it.

While you have the rifle apart, look all the parts over for any burrs. The leading edge of the lifter should be polished. Take a look at the very end points of the bolt, if they are sharp, use a stone to reduce them also. The snail cam on the lever, yah, ever so slightly knock that sharp edge off. Look the lever over good for any other burrs or rough areas.

If you notice a hitch as the round comes up into the bolt face, consider also giving the extractor a slight over bend, gently, and also inspect the extractor for a burr, remove as needed.

I do something like this on every gun I have ever owned, new or used. They have, with the exception of a Kimber, needed some attention.

Mobil 1 grease, just a little bitty bit on wear areas will make the action smooth.

And, just for the record, cycling brass with my rifle does not scratch the brass and rounds load easily like butter smooth. Oh, again, use nothing courser than 1000 and I used 1500. Do a final polish with Crocus.

As to the "Remlin" silliness, my current Marlin is the only Marlin of any era I have owned or used that is actually straight though I have an older 30-30 that is kinda straight if you do not look to close. This Remiln insult is just a way of making people feel badly about their new purchase. Marlin did not need Remington to help them build crappy products, they were pretty good at it before they went TU.

J

 

Take it back

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk

 

I think I'm going to buy another one

 

maybe it's just me but when did it become o'k to accept something new out of the box with problems you have to fix yourself, brass should not get shaved and fingers should not get cut when loading a gun.

 

I have had to work on a lot of guns in my life that I bought as new and never gave it a second thought. No manufacturing process is perfect. Just look at anything you buy now including cars. If something is not quite right you just take it in and get it fixed and never give it a second thought. I have had to do some work to a lot of handguns I bought when I was match shooting and it was just the norm. So it doesn't really bother me to give my Marlins a little TLC when I get them, and I've had to do a little even to my "JM" Marlins. I've got two new Marlins and I would put them up against any "JM" as far as fit and finish and work-ability. So just give it a little love and you will have a keeper that can be passed down through the generations. :wink:

 

I bit my tongue once and felt the same way.

 

update :
marlin sent me a new loading gate , I'm going to play with it and hopefully not screw it up (give me a pencil and sharpener and it will be a sharp nub in no time, I'm a little more patient in my old age ) going to disassemble and polish and reassemble .I have no problem with taking something and massaging it abit , I've been doing it for 40 years on cars , motorcycles ,etc

 

Why do you need another gate?

To stop the brass shaving (which every Marlin I have ever seen does when new, not that I have that much experience with them, but I know people complained of this long before Marlin went TU and had to be saved by Remington):

1. Polish the loading spring gate outside edge and over bend it a few times
2. Polish the frame side on the inside
3. Polish the lifter on the leading edge and inside radius
4. Reduce the EXTRACTOR tension by bending outward to slightly relax it's grip

Use wet/dry 1500 paper on a .5 inch dowel, follow with Crocus cloth. Yes, I know I already said all this but but I just wanted to reiterate that you are polishing, not removing metal. Put a little oil on the wet/dry paper for an even better finish.

Why reduce the extractor tension, well, as the base of the round feeds into the bolt, it may have a hitch, the bolt then drives the round forward and the round enters the chamber at an angle and the chamber edge will gouge the case. By facilitating the round to feed into the bolt the round enters the chamber more smoothly and at a lesser angle or at least it does not resist entry any longer, thus no more gouges or dents.


After doing these simple things, my rounds feed very smoothly, if I am not careful they will back out if I do not push them in all the way, the gate is very smooth now. My brass comes out clean after cycling/firing.

J

 

excellent , thank you ............