I use Renaissance Wax, if I want to protect the surface from getting wet, and/or for fine blued finishes on my S&W and Colt revolvers. I also use the wax under leather wraps on the finger lever and my steel butt plates if they are going to be covered by leather. It's a longer lasting finish and won't run off or evaporate. Many museums also use Renaissance Wax for their guns and metal exhibits.

 

I only discovered this stuff 2 years ago - simply amazing !!

 

I've always wiped them with an oily rag; a very light coat. Never had a problem with rust and it's rather humid where I am. If I had a museum piece I might put more into it.

 

I use Renaissance Wax for metal. I take most of my wood stocks down to raw wood and finish with Lin-Speed oil. You should see the hard beautiful finish this stuff gives. I just made a curly maple tomahawk handle and used it. Man alive.

 

On the exterior metal I use Boeshield- leaves a slight waxy coating and on the wood I use johnsons paste wax.

 

Renaissance wax on both stock and metal surfaces, great protection for guns.

 

when I hunt in the rain I coat the metal with Johnson past wax and cake it in the cracks. I can use it all year in the rain and when I am through wipe it off with oil. I learned that from gun writer Ken Waters..........

 

I can see the advantage of wax where the stock and action/barrel seat where I now put a light coating of RIG (old school). But I would think that the wax on other surfaces would reflect sunlight etc. and draw attention to you. Apparently that's not the case.

 

I've always wiped my down with oil. I've read of others using wax, just never tried it, and if I did probably still go back to how taught and hit with a coat of oil again anyway, LOL! I would kinda' think oil would penetrate into tight/blind spots, openings between mating surfaces, etc., better than a wax, but may depend on the type of wax?

 

Renaissance wax on all exterior surfaces.

 

A lot of guys like the wax, or "Ren" wax.......... I've tried wax on hand guns, but personally on a "working" gun I think it's overkill...............I think an oily rag with Marvel Mystery oil is still all I need , and I've been using mystery oil for 50+ years with no rust issues.

But do what you think is best for you and your firearms.

Tom

 

A lot of guys like the wax, or "Ren" wax.......... I've tried wax on hand guns, but personally on a "working" gu i think it's overkill...............I think an oily ray with Marvel Mystery oil is still all I need , and I've been using mystery oil for 50+ years with no rust issues.

But do what you think is best for you and your firearms.

Tom

Tom explained it best. Ren wax is used on my investment Colts and S&W's that only get looked at and fondled. My working guns that get shot and cleaned after every outing get a liberal dose of original G96 and blown out with compressed air. This leaves a nice film and all the internals are lubricated.

 

Lucas gun oil/Hoppes oil in a 50-50 mix at this house. Months later it's still on there in a nice coating. Never had any rust issues,even in those delightful times when I got caught in the freezing rain/snow/sloosh. Everyone has their pref.



Rob

 

WAX there you have it.

 

50/50 Boiled linseed oil/turpentine finish topped with Tom's 1/3 Gunstock Wax, which is the same stuff as classic Gunny Paste. Equal parts beeswax, turpentine and pure tung oil.

Furniture wax is for furniture, car wax is for cars.

For the metal? Gun oil on a rag. I can't imagine waxing a gun's metal parts.

 

If one is merely trying to protect - then oil will suffice as long as one periodically wipes down and reapplies it as they should be doing anyways. Things like renaissance wax as noted can be used - but it ain't cheap. It represents a "microcrystalline wax" which is basically a petroleum derivative and is used in the manufacturing of things like Vaseline. These types of wax were developed because traditional natural waxes tend to dry out and crack - not good for preservation work.

If one has superficial rust on a firearm (or knives) and wants to prevent reoccurrence - then they must "seal the metal" to prevent oxygen from reaching it since rust = oxidation - otherwise known as oxygen reacting with metal. Sealants like renaissance wax can accomplish this - or one can use synthetic polymer sealers - which is what I use. For those who can remember - back in the late-1970's there used to be TV commercials about "Nu Finish - the once a year car polish". Nu Finish is polymer sealers + ceramic microbeads. It acts to seal the metal from the air as well as create a thin ceramic coating to help prevent metal abrasions. If my firearm develops superficial rust - I clean and treat the area with Birchwood-Casey Permablue and then apply a coat or two of Nu Finish to prevent rust from re-forming and to protect the metal. On a side note - a large can of Nu Finish cost half what renaissance wax costs at Wally World. :idea:

 

For those who can remember - back in the late-1970's there used to be TV commercials about "Nu Finish - the once a year car polish". Nu Finish is polymer sealers + ceramic microbeads. It acts to seal the metal from the air as well as create a thin ceramic coating to help prevent metal abrasions. If my firearm develops superficial rust - I clean and treat the area with Birchwood-Casey Permablue and then apply a coat or two of Nu Finish to prevent rust from re-forming and to protect the metal. On a side note - a large can of Nu Finish cost half what renaissance wax costs at Wally World. :idea:

Been using Nu Finish on my cars for years . Couldn't imagine a better wax. For my guns just an oily rag every now and then has been fine here in "Moist Mississippi".

 

Another guy who uses Renaissance Wax. I have used it for years on metal surfaces and wood.

 

You will have to find out which works best for you, and your use. I have used both oils and waxes, and different kinds of waxes on metal from car waxes, to furniture and they do work well, and hold up better than normal oils. That said I don't care for the wax on metal it's harder to get a coating on everything than it is to use oil. I use eezox which has proved to be better than wax, or normal oils for my use and I have rusty fingers. I have had eezox hold up for several years without needing to add another coat.

Try both way a couple top brands of each and see which one you like. I do prefer a dry finish the eezox leaves

 

I have found this thread very interesting. Other then my friend that uses wax I do not know of any other. THEN a bunch of you guys chime in telling the benefits of using wax and have got me thinking about trying it on a gun or two...

 

When hunting in cold damp weather, I use a wipe down of furniture wax.

 

Lemon oil is supposed to be the prescribed treatment for oil finished wood. I use Kroil oil for the surface metal and in the bore because it is a fine penetrating oil and gets into the pores of metal to prevent the rust from breaking out. I then store my guns in a safe that has a heating rod damp chaser in it. Since doing this I have not had any issues with surface rust or mildew growing on my leather slings. We have high humidity here with salt air.

 

Very interesting thread! Thanks for the ideas.

 

For over 40 years in deep south humidity to very dry high desert climates. Never had one issue with surface rust.

Exterior: WD-40 for blue and unfinished metal.
Also, never use WD-40 on plated metals due to penetration properties, silicone wipe cloth only.

Internal parts and Barrel treatment: Good old fashion Ballistol

Wood: Light wax on oil finishes and Ballistol for military stocks

 

I use Ren Wax, CLP or "Hornady One shot HD-Extreme" on my guns. If you want to make your guns beautiful for pictures use Ren wax it is an amazing product. It does protects them, but It is not something I would use to protect my blued metal if I am going to be in rain or snow. I still prefer CLP or Hornady One shot HD-Extreme for wet weather and long term storage. I do use Ren Wax on all my wood stocks.

 

I've used oil for the past 45 years and recently switched to Renaissance on both metal and wood. Love the product and look how it removes debris from the gun ...

 

Very interesting reading. Anyone have an idea what they use at the Cody Firearms Museum?
I enjoy cleaning my guns, so they usually get cleaned a couple times a year; and after every shooting session.

 

Like Cowboy23 in Hawaii, here in Puerto Rico we have high humidity, salty air. A low humidity day is 70%. I live 3 blocks from the beach also. I can say Renaissance wax works quite well. But so does G96, Mobil 1 ATF, Ballistol, Boetshield, etc. It is a matter of doing it well, and as often as necessary. My firearms are rust-free, but, with my environment, I'm VERY obssesive-compulsive about them. If I was to spot a trend, I'd say those used the most get the oily rag, and those used less, the wax. They also sit in safes with Goldenrods in them.

BTW, I actually waxed my new (then) 2013 Mustang with Renaissance wax. Its first, and so far, only waxing. Still holding. And its been over 4 years now.

Luisyamaha