Lee dies and a Lee FCD for me in the 45/70.

I use Imperial case lube.

 

Another vote for the Lee dies with FCD.

 

Hornady brass is 0.125 shorter than the others. If you plan to use Hornady brass you will need Hornady dies as they will have enough adjustment. Otherwise you will need to shorten the other makes' dies.

And the RCBS Jr is just fine for 45-70. That's what I use for everything I reload. You don't need to go bigger unless you want to and can afford it.

Good luck.

 

Another vote for Lee Dies and the factory crimp. They are a great value, and work very, very well. I only recently started loading .45-70 but have done around 200 rounds. On other calibers I've used Lee dies for 20 years with no issues. Lee dies are "standard" thread, and will fit in any standard size press, including RCBS. I still use a Lee Challenger "O" frame press that came with the Lee "Anniversary" kit I bought back around 1997. I've bought a few used die sets from gun shows at low prices, but when I buy new dies, I always go Lee.

I bought some Hornady LeverRevolution .45-70 ammo and it's the only stuff that my rifle had a bit of trouble feeding. It fed, but not as smoothly it seemed. And yes, the brass is a tad shorter. Why Hornady would do this is anybody's guess but I won't be buying any more of it.

There are a couple threads here on the forum that discuss "workarounds" for the shorter Hornady .45-70 brass problem, so if it were me, it wouldn't stop my from buying Lee dies.

 

I happen to have a set of Hornady 45/70 dies and they work perfectly.

A lee "Factory Crimp Die is simply NOT needed, it is all about proper adjustment of a standard three die set!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

 

In 45-70 I happen to have hornady and a set of old lachmiller dies. Plus the lee factory crimp. I like the hornady. I have lee in 7 mag, 300 win mag and 44 mag. They work great. It comes down to if you wanna use hornady brass. Then get hornady dies.

 

Dies from any of the major manufactures will serve you well, lee works just as well as rcbs, redding, hornady etc... some of the dies my be finished a little better than others, have a better locking ring, or some part that people may prefer over the other dies. That said they will all make good ammo, and a little TLC when you get the dies cleaning up, maybe a very light polish if needed, and a wax on the outside, and inside of the dies to keep them from rusting will give you a lifetime of service.

 

have a set of hornadys. was convinced to try the rcbs cowboy action dies. wish i'd got em in the beginning. run em in a rl550c.

 

RCBS Cowboy dies, especially if you are going to load lead boolits.

The expander is a little larger.

Man o man, are you gonna have fun now !!

 

:dito: And I also have a Lee FCD

 

On the subject of Hornady. A recent box of Hornady cases that I picked up, are the same lengths ( generally), of the Winchester & Remington cases I've used. The Hornady Leverevolution cartriges use a polymer tip like their other lines of FTX bullets which require shorter cases due to the bullet shape. For instance, the trimmed case length for 45-70 is 2.095, while its 2.040 for the Hornady FTX type bullet. Same applies for many other FTX calibers. I just separate those cases. I didn't actually notice a difference while loading theses shorter Hornadys in my 1985 CB.

I used the term generally (above) because there can be .005 -.015 length differences between the same brands. I still have some Hornady new case reloads left from my last shooting session that still measure 2.095. I trimmed all the cases from numerous brands before I loaded , if needed. None of my shot & resized 45-70 cases will need trimming......that I've seen so far. It's a fact, that 45-70 is new to me. I have reloaded a lot of other calibers using Redding, RCBS, Lee, Hornady, Lyman, and Dillon dies.

At this point, I'm using Redding 45-70 dies. I like the rolled crimp it puts on the cartridge, and won't worry about getting a Lee FCD, although I use them for many other calibers.

 

What is your like better about the cowboy action Dies? I haven't got my 45-70 yet but will be reloading on a Dillon 650.

Thanks,

Padraig

 

Cowboy die accommodates and doesn't resize larger sized bullet diameters than with standard dies.

 

RCBS Cowboys. Lee FCD, optional.

Have replaced most of my Hornadys in all my calibers, too.

 

:dito: For the Lee Dies and FCD......Have used them for years with no problems or issues.

 

Thanks for the input guys! I think I will probably go with the Lee dies + FCD. :top:

I will ill be loading mostly Starline brass, which I prefer. I do plan to load one Beartooth Piledriver and Piledriver Jr's, is is safe to say the Lee dies will work properly for those case bullets?

 

Other than a few boxes of factory ammo I purchased to have something to shoot right after buying my rifle, I bought Starline brass to load and it worked perfectly. Someone may have more experience with Piledriver bullets specifically, but I cast my own 405 grain lead, and have used Berry's Lead 405 grainers, and they have the same general "classic" shape as the pics of the Piledriver Jr. I've seen. I've had no issues.

It was quite an eye-opener to load 45-70 compared to most of the other calibers I shoot....one uses a LOT of powder!

 

It was quite an eye-opener to load 45-70 compared to most of the other calibers I shoot....one uses a LOT of powder!


no kidding. just got in my second big jug of rel7. and i've gone thru a lot of 3031 and unique too.

 

Another vote for the RCBS cowboy dies (on sale if possible!). I gave away my Lee FCD in a PIF, didn't use it.

 

I have Lee, RCBS and Hornady. I like my RCBS best of all. The only thing I do to all my dies is to use Hornady locking rings. RCBS rings bugger up the threads and Lees are just a joke.

 

Not sure the issue with Lee locking rings. I keep a medium sized adjustable wrench on a nail next to the bench if needed, but I finger tighten mostly.

What troubles have you had?

 

Some prefer the Lee O-ring type of locking ring, because they allow the die to self align with the casing. I personally just use the Lee's the way they are.

 

Lee O-ring dies work fine for me. Love my Classic Cast single and Classic Cast turret presses. Not loaded hardly any 45-70 but plenty of other stuff. The Classic Cast with Hornady adapters and Lee dies is the way I roll. But, I am no expert in any fashion.

 

Another vote for Lee Dies and the factory crimp. I've been using them for years with great success, and the price is right.

 

.

I use RCBS Rock Chuck press and RCBS dies. I have a Lee Factory Crimp die that has not been used in years. The LFCD is good for jacketed bullets with no crimp groove or for folks who don't know how to set their standard dies for cast bullets. The LFC die is just another step in the process and caused a slight degrading of accuracy in my rifles. the problem is, I think, that the LFC die distorts the bullet, in the loading event or when fired the LFC dies does permit proper release of the bullet and distorts the bullet at that time. Anyway, I found the Lee to be a useless use of time and money. Test it for yourself, if it helps go for it.....don't buy one just because others use one. Learn to do a proper roll crimp and you will not need a LFC die.

.

 

You make some good points. Can you give some tips on how to do a proper roll crimp?

 

While I disagree that the Lee factory crimp die is either a waste of time or "for those who don't know how to set their standard dies for cast bullets", obviously to each their own. I find the factory crimp die to be both easier on the brass and more uniform (as well as forgiving of case length), and has had no affect whatsoever on my accuracy. So far, I only load my own cast lead in 45-70, and the factory crimp works wonderfully. I would argue it's improved my accuracy shot to shot due to uniformity alone. Or maybe I'm just more confident so I shoot better. Either way, I'll take it.

And the factory crimp die essentially costs nothing.

Quick price check puts the higher priced across the board RCBS dies at between $10-$15 more than Lee for 45-70 dies, and unless something has changed, RCBS doesn't include the shell holder. Lee does. Shell holder costs a few bucks extra with RCBS. Lee Factory Crimp die is less than $20, and a quick price check just now one can be had for less than $14 including shipping. Buy Lee and you get the factory crimp die essentially for free and then you can both roll crimp and factory crimp and figure out which one works for you under which conditions.

 

Couldn't have said it better then JBledsoe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now, just so you all know, lee makes two different types of the "factory crimp die" and while there are good reports from some quarters about the collet type, IF you are using cast bullets, AVOID the type with the carbide ring in the die mouth!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of those pieces of junk gave me no end of problems which took me days to figure out and solve.

The carbide type is made for the straight wall cartridges such as the .38/.357, .40SS&W, .45acp and .44 etc.

The problem that occurred in my case was with a .45acp "fcd" and after repeated failures to feed where the cartridge would not allow the slide to go to battery, I finally found that the hooky die was forcing bullet metal forward and forming a tiny lead ring around the case mouth which in effect made the head to case mouth measurement overly long.

Now, from my experience finding that this type of die allowed cast bullet loads to function in a friends .40S&W, the PROPER solution would have been to use a slightly smaller sizer/luber die rather then allowing the "fcd" to distort the cast bullet.

Looking at it in another way, it makes absolutely NO SENSE to strive for proper cast bullet to bore fit and then have some hooky die force the bullet to undersize!

I fully understand that I am talking about TWO different dies here, but the point is they both are sold under the heading of "Factory Crimp Die" and you may, as I did, get caught up in some lee hype.

Use the collet type "fcd" if you must, but I'll firmly stand by my earlier comment about PROPER DIE ADJUSTMENT being all that is needed for highly successful Hand loading. That being the case in well over 90% of folks handloading situations!

So put money in lee's pocket if you must, but most times it is a wasted expense better put toward primers and powder.

As per lee's stupid non-locking "lock ring", just how stupid can they be. It is however good for some of the other companies with the sales of real and locking lock rings. Yes, I have been there and done that also. Now I am just a VERY selective buy of lee products!

Hate me and my post is you wish, but I am just too old and been handloading for too many years to abide junk.

I'll GLADLY pay the little extra for quality!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

 

Couldn't have said it better then JBledsoe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now, just so you all know, lee makes two different types of the "factory crimp die" and while there are good reports from some quarters about the collet type, IF you are using cast bullets, AVOID the type with the carbide ring in the die mouth!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of those pieces of junk gave me no end of problems which took me days to figure out and solve.

The carbide type is made for the straight wall cartridges such as the .38/.357, .40SS&W, .45acp and .44 etc.

The problem that occurred in my case was with a .45acp "fcd" and after repeated failures to feed where the cartridge would not allow the slide to go to battery, I finally found that the hooky die was forcing bullet metal forward and forming a tiny lead ring around the case mouth which in effect made the head to case mouth measurement overly long.

Now, from my experience finding that this type of die allowed cast bullet loads to function in a friends .40S&W, the PROPER solution would have been to use a slightly smaller sizer/luber die rather then allowing the "fcd" to distort the cast bullet.

Looking at it in another way, it makes absolutely NO SENSE to strive for proper cast bullet to bore fit and then have some hooky die force the bullet to undersize!

I fully understand that I am talking about TWO different dies here, but the point is they both are sold under the heading of "Factory Crimp Die" and you may, as I did, get caught up in some lee hype.

Use the collet type "fcd" if you must, but I'll firmly stand by my earlier comment about PROPER DIE ADJUSTMENT being all that is needed for highly successful Hand loading. That being the case in well over 90% of folks handloading situations!

So put money in lee's pocket if you must, but most times it is a wasted expense better put toward primers and powder.

As per lee's stupid non-locking "lock ring", just how stupid can they be. It is however good for some of the other companies with the sales of real and locking lock rings. Yes, I have been there and done that also. Now I am just a VERY selective buy of lee products!

Hate me and my post is you wish, but I am just too old and been handloading for too many years to abide junk.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

Why would anyone hate you for your opinion? :biggrin: Everyone has different experiences under different circumstances. If we are going to tell stories off the the topic of 45-70 caliber here, I can report and exact opposite experience to yours where the Lee factory crimp die solved a big problem.

I reloaded a couple thousand 9mm rounds the same way I've reloaded them for over 20 years. Using Lee dies and my own cast bullets. In fact, I cast so many thousands of bullets 20 years ago using a friends 6 place mold that I only recently started running low and had to buy my own mold. My reloads have always worked in every one of the three 9mm pistols I have, a couple of Rugers and an old Egyptian army Danshway/1951 Beretta clone, and in every 9mm pistol belonging to a friend or acquaintance who used my ammo, which admittedly were mostly more Rugers and a Helwan version of the same 1951 Beretta clone owned by a buddy, who bought it at the same time as me and from the same dealer.

Last year, my wife bought a S&W M&P Shield 9mm, and it shoots factory ammo just fine...but would NOT chamber my reloads properly or consistently. In fact, it was downright dangerous as it would fire the rounds without fully chambering them and then blow out the back of the sidewall of the case. Given the Smith shoots all factory ammo we've put through it just fine, I figure the Smith is not necessarily defective, but must have a tighter chamber than any other 9mm I've ever shot. Whether that is good or bad I won't offer an opinion, but here I was with thousands of 9mm rounds that wouldn't shoot through my wife's gun.

I never had a Lee factory crimp die for 9mm, not thinking I ever needed one, but finding that it does indeed size the entire finished round to factory spec, I bought one to try. It was like $15 - $20 bucks. Not much money to put in Lee's pocket, and not much to put towards primers or powder if the ammo wouldn't shoot through my wife's gun anyway. I ran every one of those couple thousand 9mm rounds through the Lee factory crimp die.

Problem solved.

Now just to be clear on the Lee factory crimp die offerings: They don't offer two kinds of die for each caliber. They only offer one factory crimp die for any given caliber, it's just that they use a couple different methods to achieve their goal depending upon the way a certain caliber's case is designed/made.

 

If you buy a carbide FCD it is easily cured with a punch and a hammer to the carbide ring removing it. I shoot over sized cast in my revolvers and with the ring removed have zero trouble keeping oversized bullets oversized.


Most of my dies are RCBS and Redding but the few sets of Lee dies I have makes ammo just as good as the other brands.

 

Question here ----------------

Just what would be the point of using a punch to drive out the carbide ring in the lee die? What have you gained that could not have been more easily accomplishing with the proper adjustment of the seating crimping die of your standard three die set?

No matter how disruptive the carbide ring may be, it is the whole point of that type of lee "fcd".

CDOC

 

The point is to not have to fiddle with adjustment of the seater to crimp. If I want more or less crimp I simply spin the top, not unlock, twist, relock, recheck, etc. I get the crimp I want where I want. I loaded some 44's the other day with the 275 WFN over H110 and 2400 with a heavy crimp. I loaded 50 and then spun in the FCD and turned it 3/4 turn for a heavy crimp. Then I loaded 100 rounds of 240gr SWC loaded with 6grs of bullseye. No since in a monster crimp so instead of messing with the seater die to lighten the crimp I literally turned the FCD back 1/4 turn and then crimped 100 light loads. I then cleaned up all my junk Lee dies and went shooting.


The point of the carbide ring to to make sure that ammo will chamber in any firearm made, will size down oversized bullets. I want to shoot oversized bullets in my revolvers, I don't worry about it not chambering, therefore bye bye ring. No different than the collet type FCD, there is no ring in them.