TurnBull? or are ya doing it yerself?

 

I'm not familiar with the term Turnbull, but I'm going to do as much of it myself as I can.

 

So here is my progress as of tonight. First of all I am unable to remove the forearm because I can not get the screw off. I'm trying, but I'm afraid I'm going to round off the head of the screw. If anyone has any suggestion on how to get it off please let me know. For now I will work around as best as I can with the hope of eventually getting if off so that I can properly work with the barrel. I am a total novice at this, so feel free with offering advice so that I may limit my mistakes.

So I worked on this tonight for less than an hour and here are the results so far.

Before picture of the left side of the receiver.

The same receiver after a little bit of oiling and steel wool #0000

 

The right side of the receiver. It doesn't look as good as the left side at the moment, and I'm not sure if you can tell the progress in the picture compared to the start. It is definitely better and I can easily read the model number on the lower side of the receiver.

Now for the barrel, I started working on the barrel from the muzzle to the forearm.

From the forearm towards the breech. I can tell a difference between the two, but not sure if it comes out in the picture.

 

Forearm comes off without removing screw. Grasp end of forearm and pull down, spring loaded latch holds forearm on against stud
on bottom of barrel. The screw in bottom off forearm holds latch assembly. There is 2 wood screws in back end of forearm that also
hold latch assembly. To put forearm back on make sure latch is in position against stud and push it back up, with hand positioned
over the screw you are trying to remove. It will snap back on.

 

Thanks Drm50. Came off just like you said. I think you are going to be my go to guy on this project!!

 

Here are some more pictures of the barrel after breaking it down following Drm50's instructions.

 

Drm50, did these shotguns have a bluing or some other type of finish on the barrels?

 

Turnbull does beautiful work, BMW do you realize what the price tag on this job would be? I enquired on small job that required a little
work on a 22 revolver. The revolver was present when I got the quote, cylinder dilated to 17 cal.!!! OP take your time and do it
yourself, you will do fine.

 

Diverg, If you want to bring it back to original, lot's of money. It will still not be original, at any cost.
If you want to bring it back to a shooter and the condition your Grandpaw had it in, try rubbing it with a COPPER penny and light oil. It will remove the rust, keep the patina, but it will not remove any pitting. If you need a copper penny, PM me. I will send you one.
This takes a while, but will almost make it like it was in Grandpaws hands.

 

They were blued. The barrels of these takes cold blue well. I recommend Birchwood Casey brand, but there are several other good
ones. Main thing is get barrel free of any oils, dirt ect. I clean with acetone, use in ventilated area. You can't mess it up. If it looks
streaked( which probably will on first attempt) just use the 4/0 steel wool on it, and give another coat, if you want darker, just give
it another coat. Follow directions on bottle. It is not paint, try to put on in long swipes, evenly. That's why on this particular job I
would do my polishing with the length of barrel, will show imperfections less. Roto polishing on these gives you problem with forearm
stud and monoblock under breech area. When done make sure to keep oil on it, WD40 will work good.

 

Nothing personal but I would be hard pressed to use WD40 on any firearm, interior or exterior. It will gum up stuff. The only thing I use it for is removing Obama bumper stickers.

 

256 Win Mag is right about WD40, I never use in gun actions, do use on cold blued exteriors because it does leave a film. Birchwood
sells a spray called Sheath, which is about the same thing but cost more since it's sold for guns. He was also right about penny to
remove rust, if you don't plan to blue. In these cases I use a brass wire wheel on bench grinder to remove rust and not original
patina. From pics your gun was a little beyond patina. I think your grandfather would be proud of your refinish, if he was anything
like my Grandpap, he would crawl out of grave and kick my but for spending $600+ on a refinish job.:top:

 

So, you recommend bluing the gun so I will need to get all the rust and other stuff off the barrel. What about using naval jelly for that? Also, should I bore clean the barrel first or do that after getting the interior done?

 

I do outside first, then bore, both before blue. Use cheap paint brush to "paint" on naval jelly- let it work. Wipe off, check to see if another treatment is required. Would definitely blue, I hate paint & coatings. Have done a few with Brownells bake on stuff- didn't
like the looks of it. Either way you chose the whole job will depend on your prep.

 

I haven't gotten a good look into the bore yet, but what would one suggest using for a shot gun that has been sitting that long?

 

First just run a bronze brush through it, then couple patches with bore cleaner. Then you can see what you have. A lot of the time
bore isn't as bad as exterior, unless it's been where water can get to it. If needed make the lapping stick out of dowel Rod / steel
wool and start polishing. Here is pics of a few, top is 20g 94a, middle is 12g 94b, but is marked Eastern Arms Co. bottom is 94a
12g in decent shape, showing Case colors on action.

 

Sorry guys, I haven't been able to do anything on this project. If you are not aware the Houston area had severe rain and flooding starting late Sunday evening into early Monday afternoon. Unfortunately one of my cousins was a victim of the floods also. Hopeful I'll be able to get back to it soon.