I sure am no expert and mine wasn't near that finicky, but this is what I did. First I cleaned it and degreased it, then I lightly sanded with 1500 grit any surfaces with friction and also some steel wool. Then I sprayed the bolt with teflon spray and let it dry. The gun works near flawlessly, seems like all the oil did was attract grit and gum things up.

 

this is so strange b/c i just bought a marlin 60 last week, and mine did the same thing. I found to that a little clp takes care of it

but another thing i noticed, the ammo i used didnt have the power to throw the action back

i was using federal champions 525 bulk boxes, they couldnt do it

ran 100 cci mini mags thru, and now it feeds those federal like butter

i think the action needs to get broke in, b/c mine was extremely tight and stiff.......now, nice and smooth

try running high velocity rounds, a minimum of 100 rounds, then use a little clp

i bet that would fix it

 

I'd also check the chamber to make sure there's no rust, corrosion, or spider webs in there. A little polishing couldn't either, and I'd check the extractors for good sharp edges. If they're soft they'll quit working properly in short order.

 

I have one that I keep in the truck and have for decades, never cleaned it even once, maybe a little oil every five years, thousands and thousands and thousands of rounds through it and still pretty darn accurate. This is definitely not the Marlin 60 I know.

 

I got a new model 60 3 years ago and didn't open it until two weeks ago. I disassebled and cleaned through out. I oiled it and it is Jamming constantly. When it does jam it appears that it is not ejecting the fired cartridge completely. I might be able to shoot three shots in a row before it jams again. I tried four diffrent types of ammo and same problem. Any one have any suggestions on fixing this. I hope it is something as simple as a spring.

Thank you to all who respond.

In addition to the cleaning, check the ejector wire. This is the most common problem. When properly position, the ejector spring is touching the upper inside corner of the bolt slot when it protrudes as the bolt is sliding back (i.e., it should be touching the inside edge and top edge of the slot when the bolt moves back and engages the spent casing). You can check by pulling the bolt back and watching as the ejector wire begins to emerge from the bolt face. It should not not be applying much force against these surfaces, however.

There are lots of threads in various forums about this - search for "model 60 ejector fix". At rimfirecentral under marlins/semiautomatics there is a thread "60 dlx fte problems" that has pictures. Good luck!

 

I also had issue which was failure to extract mostly. It ran fine on CCI Mini Mags And federal Lightnings but did not like Western and would also have some fail to extract with Wnchester X=Pert. Today was the third outing and the Win X-Pert ran 100%. I think mine just needed a little break in but it also seems to prefer HV.
Keith

 

In the past I've had 3 model 60s, one of the three had the jamming problem. I got used to cleaning it often and would take it from the stock and soak the action, then blow it out with the air hose. Clean the chamber and lube. It was around round 300 it started to function the way it supposed to. The one with the jamming problems I bought cheap used. Pretty sure why.

Advice do the action job, polish all the moving parts, use a swab with a little compound on it and polish the chamber, (In and Out not rotary)

 

Thanks to all that posted. I will take down clean and polish this weekend along with the ejector wire fix and some spay on dry lubricant to see what happens. Thanks again for all of your help.

 

Longtime lurker posting here. My wife just got me a Model 60 as an anniversary/birthday gift.

We took it to the range after I ran a .22 bore snake down the barrel to ensure the bore was clean, dry, and unobstructed. The rifle was very accurate at 50 yards, and I could adjust the rear sight elevation, but we kept getting stove pipe type jams, i.e. failures to eject i guess, using Federal lead 40gr. .22lr ammunition. We stopped shooting. I disassembled the rifle and cleaned it thoroughly with patches and CLP. I found that the interior of the receiver was already scuffed up, but I don't mind that so much, just that it works right. After cleaning, I reassembled the rifle, double checking the screws and so on. We shot a bit more, but the stove pipes continued. Looks like usually there is a round about half in the chamber, but the .22 empty case is either stuck in the chamber and a bit torn up, or turned sideways with the case head facing out through the ejection port.

We switched to Winchester 40gr. ammo with some kind of brass or bronze plating on the bullets, and while that ammo does not seem quite as accurate, it did not stovepipe or fail to eject. I have been told that it might need breaking in, or that I need to find some ammo that it likes. I've read the problem-solving portion of the site on Model 60s and this thread. Hopefully I'll get it working right soon.

 

I've got an older glenfield 60 and a new marlin branded model 60....and I refer to both of them as "jam-o-matic" They both tend to stovepipe...I have tried everything...My original thought was just oil, dirt, grime, powder and lead residues... but after a thorough cleaning...it does the same thing.... If I can find a way to loosen up the chamber just a little bit I think it would help. I think the fired round sticks in the chamber and pulls loose from the extractor and never gets completely extracted before the case comes loose and therefore is not ejected out of the way and the reason it jams. I dont' think it's a "newness" issue as my glenfield (made by marlin) model 60 is a 1972 model and has done this ever since I got it.... My ruger 10/22 has NEVER had a failure to extract or had a jam of any type and it has several hundreds of rounds put through it.

 

Some years ago, I had a model 60 that did that after about 150 rounds went through her. When I opened her up to clean her, the action was completely clogged with unburnt powder. It took quite a while to get her cleaned out, and I was so disgusted that I sold her right quick. Something like this has never happened with my 10-22, and I pretty much never clean her. Well, I bought another 60 a little while ago, but I haven't had a chance to get her to the range yet. I even bought one of those Boyd laminated thumbhole stocks to put her in. I sure hope this one does a whole lot better than that one from back then.

 

I've had good luck breaking in 2 60's, a 795 and then an old 1981 Glenfield 60 that I went through with the first 100 rounds being CCI mini-mags. Used 40 grain 1235 fps ammo so that I didn't stress the buffer. Then I switch over to Federal 550 bulk 36 grain, 1260 fps. Worked out good. As mentioned earlier, doesn't take much oil to make the reciever gum up. Keep up the faith, after you learn what ammo works, you'll enjoy your 60.

 

*Update* I didn't want to start a "Chevy vs. Ford" "Ruger vs. Marlin" 9mm vs. .45" type of debate, but thanks to all the respondents on this thread.

I've been trying to "break in" the action, seeing if once the bolt scrapes off all the black finish in the alloy receiver that things will work a bit better as the action parts wear together. I shot about 99 rounds of CCI mini-mags. Good results, accuracy wise, but still plenty of stovepipe jams. Still some work to do, I guess. I'll get it worked out sooner or later.

Frosty: Thanks for the Federal info. I'll try to see if I can find a 50 round box of that stuff and see how it goes.

 

It only needs the ejector wire tweaked up and in towards the bore a bit.
These are the ejector wire dimensions of my dependable model 60.
From the top of feed-throat over the topside of the wire (at the tip) was .073 inch.
The side dimension from the wire tip to the inside of the "opposed" throat gap came to .150 inch.
Get it close to this and you have a shooter.
Cleaning rods and boresnakes can snag and push it out of position if you are not aware of its location & function.

 

+1 on Arrowdoger.
Thats what fixed mine and finding the right ammo. Mine only likes solids that are plated.
I run Rem Vipers and Mini Mags with no problem.

 

The wire ejector on mine is in the groove and goes over the top of the feed throat like it should, but it is flush at the top. Should it be raised up just a bit?

Curious... Can't wait to get the problem solved!

 

From the dimensions I gave I tried to find an equivalent for those that have no dial caliper.
An American nickel is close to .074 for the height.

 

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE REMINGTON GOLDEN BULLETS IN ANY .22LR weapon unless you want lots of greif!!!!

Using almost any other ammo results in a happier gun owner.

 

OK. Thanks for the warning... I've got my Model 60 put back together. Almost all the black coating inside the receiver is worn off by now, so hopefully it is breaking in a bit. I see the wire ejector when I pull the bolt all the way back, and it would seem that it is where it is supposed to be. But I'm not sure if there is supposed to be "air" between it and the feeding throat. The ejector is definitely flush on the top surface of that part as the bolt overrides it.

I'll try to get out to the range later this week and see how it is doing.

 

I took my 60 apart and cleaned everything and used extra frine steel wool to polish everthing smooth. I also adjusted the ejector wire using a nickel for a gauge that I found on rimfire central. Cleaned eveything again and sprayed with teflon lubricant and let it dry completely. After alowing it to dry completly I reasembled and test fired. I tried three diffrent types of ammo. One was bulk and the one Federal and one Remington with no FTE. I can fire it as fast as I can pull the trigger with no problems at all. Thanks to everyone that replyed to my initial post.

 

Adjusting the ejector wire is usually "hit or miss". It just so happens that a Nickel is close enough in thickness to use as a gage for height and side position. Of course I have only done this to my own. The action assembly is removed for this check.

"Nickel high & Nickel wide" is a good way to remember.

Place a Nickel on top of the feed-throat. Flush top of wire to top of the Nickel.


Push down the Lifter and place the Nickel on the inside of the feed-throat holding it straight up. Flush face of Nickel to side of wire.


For trouble free re-insertion of the action assembly, remember these 3 things to do beforehand.
1. Lock the bolt in the extreme back position. This prevents bending the ejector.
2. Remove the magazine chase tube. This prevents breaking the follower.
3. Cock the hammer. A simple no-go.

this info was posted as a sticky on the Marlin forum at rimfirecentral.

 

Does the Federal HollowPoint Copper Plated 550 Value Pack ammo jam frequently?