Marlin Firearms Forum banner

Boat plan for 2020

8.2K views 64 replies 31 participants last post by  Padraig  
#1 ·
Hey guys,
It's the off-season... That means time to plot and plan for a new/different boat.

What's your plan for 2020?

Mine is to get rid of a 14' fiberglass fast/duckboat and get into an 18' or so boat that will fit the family....

I *really* want to keep things simple and reliable... But you know how that goes when you use the word "boat"...
 
#3 ·
I will stick with my 2000 Lund 1650 Angler SS for a few more years.
I am still working on my 1999 Lund WC-14 as my permanent South Carolina boat. I have it partially wired for navigation lights, trolling motor and depth sounder. Unfortunately, winter has settled in and I am done till spring. In the meantime, I am in search of a 25hp long shaft to replace the 9.9 Mercury that's on it now. It's just to small for this wide, heavy 14 footer.
Andrew
 
#13 ·
I am still working on my 1999 Lund WC-14 as my permanent South Carolina boat. I have it partially wired for navigation lights, trolling motor and depth sounder. Unfortunately, winter has settled in and I am done till spring. In the meantime, I am in search of a 25hp long shaft to replace the 9.9 Mercury that's on it now. It's just to small for this wide, heavy 14 footer.
Andrew
South Carolina is sort of a tricky boat place... Most of the water in the state is narrow log filled rivers and small lakes made by damming rivers/creeks. It's nothing special to be fishing these in 2' of water or pushing up into log filled sloughs to find the fish. A flat bottom jon boat rigged to "run skinny" is almost perfect for this but a lot of folks use trolling motor powered "sneak" boats.... This is what I mostly fish and a 14/32 jon running a light 2-stroke 15. I really want a quality side scan fish finder - but it's often very shallow and I am worried about breaking transducers.

But then you have a couple big reservoirs such as Jocassee, Hartwell, Keowee, The Santee along with The Intercoastal and many of the coastal salt marshes - those generally require bigger higher side boats with some V in the bottom because waves and wind are common... But big boats with heavy deep vee and big fiberglass ocean capable boats can be trouble because of the risk of getting stuck or damaged by shallow water, logs, low tide shoals, oyster beds, etc.. Bass boats, bay boats, older tri-hulls, and pontoon boats are super popular in these places.

But then you have a LOT of coast/ocean here too. The Gulf Stream is about 75 miles out. A lot of reef fishing takes you out a ways. Most people find they need a large capable boat that can handle nasty weather, waves, tide changes through inlets, etc and can navigate out of view of the shore.
 
#9 ·
Happened to me... TWICE! Lost EVERY gun I ever owned! :bawling:
 
#8 ·
I don't plan to buy one this year. I have owned boats both small and large and the deal is to get one that will fish and play where you are wanting to use it. To big for where you go and you will be limited to what you can do. To small and it my not be safe or have enough room for where you want to use it. I know that seems simple but many people buy a boat and then find it is not really what they should have for what they are doing or where they are fishing.
 
#12 ·
Can't bring myself to part with my 1998 Hewescraft 21' Sea Runner. She (Misty Blue) is powered by a Yamaha Saltwater Series II 150HP fuel injected 2 stroke. Powerful and fast. Very comfortable with a mid length cabin, jump seats, and a spacious fishing area. Fished all over the northern shore areas of the gulf of Alaska for 17 years. Now she's with me in the Puget Sound area. Fishing isn't very good but the crabbing and shrimping are great. Have made one trip to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and will make more in the future.
Haven't found a boat I like better that I can handle by myself.
So to answer your question...
My plans for 2020 and beyond are to take care of her until she outlasts me and turn her over to my son.
Safe boating everyone!!
 
#14 ·
I re-powered the boat and bought all new electronics last year. This year I’m buying a heading sensor/digital compass. This will make target tracking on the radar more automated and will also allow the radar image to be overlaid on the GPS. This unit has sensors in it that compensates for the roll/pitch of the boat when the radome is rocking back and forth. With the digital compass feature targets on the radar will not only show relative position to my boat but magnetic bearings as well.

Im also going to replace two bilge pumps and the bait well pump.
 
#16 ·
I use two boats. One is a 14' Crestliner with a 5 hore motor for the smaller lakes and the other a 16" deep Lund with a 20 horse for the larger lakes. Both Tiller steered. Both have trolling motors. Get by just fine with them. Both are older boats but then I am older also. Also set up with cheap depth finders. Most of my fishing does not require a larger faster boat. Actually the Lund has more room than some of the "Bass Boats" I see.

DEP
 
#17 ·
If the conventional vee style aluminum boats are popular up your way - you may be happier selling it up there and then buying something more commonly used down here along the lines of the Lund 1448M pointy nose jon boat or a Garvey style bass tracker. The up north style vee-bottom aluminum boats can be hard to sell down here because they aren't popular.
 
#18 ·
This time of year is the time to pick up an older boat hull of good design for cheap, even if it needs to be re-painted and fixed up, represents a good deal, as the value of new boats falls of a cliff as soon as you leave the dealer's lot. Making sure you get a good used motor, is based on your experience or have someone who knows such things inspect/run it. Also be sure new parts are available for that engine.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Two things to look for on that used boat is how the boat sits on the trailer, what iam talking about is that the bunk boards or rollers support the stern of the boat. Boats that live their life on trailers, that. Were never properly adjusted
To match the size of the boat .Can have what is called a CUP, in the stern , dents in the back of the bottom of the boat from lack of support, all the weight in the back of the boat bouncing down the road has to have the bunk boards
Come right to the edge of the transom, to support the eng.
Weight.
If the bottom of the boat has cups in it, it will be very hard
To control at low speed, and they act like trim tabs, keeping the bow down, hard to get up on plane.
#2 check the stern over REEL close for any cracks or holes not filled with sealer, try to wiggle the outboard up and down, transom ROT, is a big problem, older boats have had a lot of transducers mounted and screwed into
Them, allowing water to keep the wood soaked.
Check the steering, the steering wheel should turn easy
Changing the steering cable, requires pulling the outboard off the boat, most owners don't have the means to do that.
I'll add a couple more things, if the dealer or owner will let you try to tighten the engine mounting bolts, they should be tight, if you can turn them / tighten them the transom has rotten wood inside.
And best of all is to have a compression test done on the engine, all the cylinders should be with in 10% of each other
 
#19 ·
Last summer I picked up a 12' fishing kayak and have used it quite a bit. I'm going to stick with it for our local rivers & lakes. Haven't fished from it yet, but I've been busy using it to poke around on the Columbia River and nearby lakes for some wildlife photography:

Image


Image


Image


This year I plan to do the same, and start doing some fishing from it as well. I know it's not much of a "boat" but it serves me well.

Guy


 
#21 ·
Just picked up my new to me rig last week. Was finally a window between snow storms so I got it home. It's a Alumacraft Magnum 165 tiller. Trolling motors front and rear with 60hp Merc on the back. Been looking for a replacement for my ole Javelin bass boat. Got a GREAT deal buying in January with the lakes froze solid here in WI. Should easily be able to sell for a couple grand more then I paid for it if I don't like it come spring.
 
#23 ·
I am sticking with my early 1950's Lonestar 14 footer. It is powered by a 1955 Johnson 5.5. I tow it on a late 50s Gator trailer. I have a newer trolling motor to maneuver it around. I can handle it myself unless I forget the drain plug. It works well on our small lakes here in NE Indiana.
I am adding running lights this spring to do some night fishing. I figure with a boat, motor, trailer and owner all fifties version what could go wrong?
 
#28 ·
Got her in the shop turning it into my version of the perfect fishing rig. Moved the front pedestal seat back about 2 feet. Trolling motor foot control is now located where the seat was. Way to close to the front of the boat for my tastes. Removed the electric controlled trolling motor for a cable controlled model. Once you get used to a cable controlled you will never go back, IMHO.

Going to build a custom tackle box into the side just above the rod storage. New bearings, new wiring and trailer lights. Rewire the batteries and electronics with fuses. Who the heck direct wires 24v trolling motors??

Spring is just around the corner and I'll be ready to hit the water.
 

Attachments

#32 ·
I’ve got 2 canoes, Jon boat, 2 14’ V hauls and a Sears 2 man Sportfisherman bass boat. I only know where some of them are at presently. They ain’t in my yard. I sold Grumman Outlaw 40hp and small pontoon 2 years ago. I am a happy camper but I know the loaners will end up back and I’ll have to move them around to cut grass.