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A simple fix for a feeding problem

8.9K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  swany  
#1 ·
I found a solution to a feeding problem that I was having and thought I would share it in case anyone had had similar problems...

I recently acquired a used 336 in 35 Rem, and while I haven't had time to make it to the range, I couldn't resist loading up some dummy rounds (i.e., no primer, no powder) to try out the action. Unfortunately, I was finding that the last round would often have trouble entering the chamber, with the bullet (158gr XTP) getting caught on the edge of the chamber opening. If I cycled the action quickly, there was usually enough momentum to carry the round up and in, but if I cycled slowly, the hangup would occur. It seemed like for the first rounds, the lip of the carrier was raising right up to the edge of chamber, but for the last round, the carrier lip was about 1/4" lower causing the bullet to catch.

To get a better look at things, I removed the bolt, and cycled a few rounds through. I was then able to notice that for all rounds, the carrier was raising to the edge of the chamber, but for the last round, when I'd start closing the lever, the carrier would drop the 1/4" that was causing the loading problem. Examining the action, I learned that there is a tab below the front of the carrier that the cartridge rims in the magazine press against to support the carrier in its raised position. When the last round is fed, the magazine follower is supposed to provide this support.

I searched the archives here, and a common recommendation for feeding problems was to clean the magazine tube. I pulled mine off, and though the tube/spring was clean, I did find a few brass shavings on the follower, particularly around the recess that butts against the receiver. I cleaned the follower and reassembled, and bingo! No more feeding problems.

I can now cycle the action as slow as I want, and the carrier is always raised high enough to feed rounds reliablly.

Anyways, just a reminder to periodically clean your magazine tube, spring, and follower.

P.S. I was under the impression that leverguns should be cycled strongly for reliable feeding. Are Marlins an exceptions? Do most feed well even in slow motion?
 
#2 ·
They will feed slow if perfect timed I would say.. but they prefer to be levered smooth and solid.. ;D
 
#3 ·
Like G/J said, they should work slowly.
Not just Marlins but any gun. They dont design them that they need to be bullyied but going fast often gets you over humps & in time wear smooths out things that an employee at the factory used to. If you take one from 50 years ago, if everythings original its smooth as silk most times & works as slow as you can go.
Your trouble I bet was made worse by the short OAL caused by the bullet choice. A longer bullet would be further in the chamber & might help it get in there.

But, you looked & found the real cause. All you did was remove gunk & let the follower poke into the action a little more.
Either the follower or the head of the next round if theres one in the tube bears on that tab sticking down from the lifter & holds it there until the lever pushes it down.
Thats why yours was the right height until there was no more ammo in the tube. The follower wasn't poking in enough & let the lifter drop just a tad, but enough to cause problems.
 
#6 ·
Silverbow.

Very common feeding problem amongst all loading gate tube fed leverguns. I have called this problem the Other Marlin Jam, not because it is a Marlin problem but that's what we hear about at Marlinowners.

Very informative, I would however go back to the drawing board for your own personal rifle. You likely have a sharp edge on your loading gate causing the brass shavings. Check it out, very well may be you can eliminate one future problem. Check also the opening of the mag tube itself for small burrs. The 35 is a non rimmed and goes in a little different than most, and comes out a little different. So with that in mind check for the burrs inside as well as the outer edge. When I get a new or used Marlin and remove the mag tube for cleaning I usually chamfer that edge.
 
#7 ·
swany said:
Silverbow.

Very common feeding problem amongst all loading gate tube fed leverguns. I have called this problem the Other Marlin Jam, not because it is a Marlin problem but that's what we hear about at Marlinowners.

Very informative, I would however go back to the drawing board for your own personal rifle. You likely have a sharp edge on your loading gate causing the brass shavings. Check it out, very well may be you can eliminate one future problem. Check also the opening of the mag tube itself for small burrs. The 35 is a non rimmed and goes in a little different than most, and comes out a little different. So with that in mind check for the burrs inside as well as the outer edge. When I get a new or used Marlin and remove the mag tube for cleaning I usually chamfer that edge.
I have noticed that my 35 rem leaves a mark/scare on all the brass cases, only on one side. I had thought this might be in the chamber itself, but silly me ignored the obvious that it could be the loading gate. Dah! I will have to take a close look to see if no mark is made when loading individually via the chamber rather than through the loading gate/tube.

Some have stated that you can unload the mag tube by depressing the loading gate with your finger. There ain't no way I can get mine to do that. They go in, but even going in they barely go having what seems like almost zero "extra" space tolerance. Is this normal for a 35 Rem?

Probably a dumb question.... But I'm a little confused as to what "that edge" you are referring to in the above quote. Are you chamfering the exterior front edge of the loading gate or the edge of the mag tube?
 
#8 ·
swany said:
Very informative, I would however go back to the drawing board for your own personal rifle. You likely have a sharp edge on your loading gate causing the brass shavings. Check it out, very well may be you can eliminate one future problem.
That's definitely true in my case. I noticed when loading the brass that it would get quite badly scratched by the receiver part of the loading port. That is, the springy loading gate was burr-free, but when a round was pushed through, the pressure from the spring would make the opposing side of the brass catch on the inner edge of the loading port opening and create the scratch... and of course, that's probably why I was seeing the brass shavings accumulate in front of the magazine opening.

I'm going to take the loading gate off and hone the edge of the receiver (inside, non-visible) to see if I can smooth that area up and prevent the shaving. I'll take some pictures as I do the work so others can learn... but it'll be a week before I get to it since I have travel tomorrow on business... sigh.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
#9 ·
I have two 94 win and three 336s and they vary. Some are easy to unload threw the gate and one is impossible.Polishing the edge of the loading gate is a good idea. It can scar the brass but worse it can trap your finger.
 
#10 ·
The edge is the inside of the mag tube. It can be done with a reloading inside chamfer. Easy enough. Unloading from the mag on a .35 is tricky but usually it can be done with two hands. Or one of these.