As far as accuracy is concerened, I don't think it matters what style of barrel band you have. I had a problem with the sling configuration. I had a tube mounted sling swivel that I didn't like. It seemed like I could never tighten the allen screw enough to keep the band from turnind. So I got a rear band with a sing swivel stud already mounted on it. Problem solved. I ordered it from Midway.

DRSLYR

 

The carbines have a barrel band, rifles a cap. If you change to a forearm cap you will need to cut a dovetail into the barrel for the tenon.

All of my Marlins but one have the forearm cap which I prefer. Either style will not drastically affect accuracy at hunting ranges. The rifle style is better, IMHO, for long range. You rarely see a barrel over 24" on the carbine.

DD

 

The reason I asked was that I was on a custom gun site that re-worked marlin carbines and rifles of all types and there wasn't any that I saw from a 13" SBF to a rifle length configuration that DIDN'T have a end cap...figured that since they made them all that way then it must be that when the 336/1895/1984/1894c was sent to them that they converted all of them over from a band to a cap for some good reason...each overall conversion/modification available (made to the owner supplied gun) was around $1500.00 each.

 

My 336A 30-30 and 308MX 308 ME are the most accurate Marlins that I own. Neither of them have barrel bands. I have seen posts on MO that discuss the effects of vibrations caused by the two barrel bands when the bullet travels down the barrel on some (336C,CS..etc) Marlin models. All I know is my Marlins without the bands are my most accurate ones! Could mean everything---or nothing!

 

The effect of a barrel band on accuracy would likely not be noticed unless one is
a handloader and shooting a scoped 336.
I would think it would be more of a torquing issue than vibration, but could be a
combination of both. Anything clamped to or pushing/riding against a barrel can
affect accuracy.
Benchrest rifles, and some bolt-action hunting rifles have their barrels "free-floated"
to where even the forearm dosent touch the bottom of the barrel.
But the truth is, a 336 is not a target rifle.

 

I lnow this is an old post and you're probably dead now or something but, "not a target rifle"? Mine is sub moa at 100 yards and I almost always carry a quarter with me when I go to the range just to put a hole in it.

 

Recently replaced my barrel bands as someone had put metal screws in to replace when they had it apart. I bought pays from midway. The front band screw does not fit thru the space honed out of the barrel bottom and tube top. Any suggestions?

 

Your screw doesn't fit because the one you ordered is the new style,the screw is a bigger diameter.

You need to get the screw for the old style,I remember your post on your old 336,are the threads still ok on your barrel band after removing that sheet metal screw? You may need to get another band.

This is the only place I found the old style screw.
Jack First Gunshop - First in Gun Parts - Rapid City, South Dakota

 

It's purely the way they look for me, in that I prefer a fore end cap and no front barrel band. I would like to see a way to eliminate the magazine cap post that is dove tailed into the bottom of the barrel. But it must be there for a reason. I think it would look even cleaner without one and also allow customizing the rifles that use a fore end cap and a front barrel band. As in shortening both the barrel and magazine. I think it's to retain the magazine tube.

 

I did a bubba 2/3 magazine conversion job years back, simply ran a longer screw up through the magazine cap and tapped directly into the barrel, still working actually. Back then didn't know anything about how to do it right, but did know how to save money.

 

I'm in minority I think but I like the carbine look with the band..just looks more classic to me for some reason.

 

You can part together the conversion from Numrich, Brownells etc. As mentioned you will need the barrel dove tail cut to accept the tenon that secures the end of the mag tube. The hard part can be matching up the capped forend, with your exsisting butt stock wood. An easy out, is to simply buy a new complete stock set, Marlin or Remlin production or other brand.

 

I've had everything they make and even shot them Henry 1860 style, never made a hill of beans in accuracy.

I used to be a cap freak but have fell back in love with a simple band with sling stud.

 

Can someone post a picture of the barrel bands and the end cap so I can tell the difference? I'm trying to learn all I can about the Marlins I own but I'm not sure what the difference is in the two terms.

 

.....................BARREL BAND..................END CAP............
.

 

Capped

Banded

 

 

I have a 1971 made 336 in 30-30 that I received literally in a box of parts for the princely sum of $75. I added another $100 to that ordering all the missing parts and ended up ordering a barrel band with the sling stud attached to it. I relieved the upper part of the band with a Dremel so it wouldn't touch the barrel and that seemed to have worked as my rifle will shoot many sub 1 inch groups with a hand load it likes.

 

Navajo dead? No way.

 

I have two 336-A model when the forend cap screws were tightened the forend cap was pushing against the barrel. More importantly the forend cap was also compressing the end of the forend against the barrel. I relieved wood from the end of the forend along with using a dremel to remove a few thousands off the "INSIDE" top edge of the foreend cap. The barrel tenions for the forend cap screws are not always squared in the barrel slot and can cause un-even pressure on the cap when tightened.

My groups really improved after basically floating the forend tip.

CD