I am far from an expert but found soaking the joint for several days with penetrating oil helps. Also make sure to install the lower tang to prevent warping the receiver. Alternately some people mill a block to fit inside the action too. A hard tap with a big mallet should take care of it. Just make sure to place witness marks to reorient the parts later. I'm sure some of the other guys will chime in that have more experience doing this.

 

It's a long shot, but has the front scope mount screw been removed? The ones I've removed have had a rather sloppy thread fit and didn't have any issue getting kroil to work it's way through the extractor cut and wick it's way out on the front ring/barrel shoulder almost instantly.

 

Like a sleeve in an engine block, a little dry ice wrap for contraction may help break it loose. Also, on the reverse side as you put it back together. I like the tip to block the inside of the receiver to avoid warp.

 

Being somewhat paranoid, I'd be concerned if it is a Remington built Marlin. With what they've historically consistently shown us, and information I used to get from an inside production engineer, it would not surprise me if they may have OVER torqued the barrel to achieve a perpendicular clocking of the front sight.

Slow and easy friend. The moderate heating of the receiver and chilling the barrel sounds promising. I would consider dry ice for exponential cooling.

AC

 

It is soaking in kroil for the day. I will Mill a block to fit inside the receiver and will pick up some dry ice on the way home.
Fingers crossed.

 

None of the suggested ideas worked.
I am at a loss.

 

Is the barrel slipping in the vise? I put my weight into it and if they don't go as Kingstrider suggested I'll give the action wrench a wrap with a lead hammer while still putting my weight into it. The lever actions are more easily damaged than some other types so make sure the action wrench is mostly only putting torque across the "front ring" where the barrel threads are and the lower tang is installed, and lever and bolt out. Through the ejection port the action is thin and easily damaged.

 

Can you cut the end threads with the barrel and action passed in through the thru hole in the head stock using:
-a spider mount?
-steady or follow rest?

Just shooting my newly minted manual machinist knowledge off here, if you can’t get the barrel off. Then, have a work around?

Peace!

 

I can thread smaller barrels on my lathe but am limited by the small spindle bore. Sounds like we both need bigger machines.

 

If his headstock isn’t too large in length (so the barrel will fit through with action on opposite side of head and you’ve got enough barrel sticking through to work on without hitting the chuck with your tooling) but his thru hole/bore is large enough for the barrel then pass the barrel through the hole, spider the rear stock end where the action will be on the barrel and using a following rest or static rest on the muzzle end to cut the threads and taper or whatever you need to do for the muzzle break.

I learned to use a rest on anything sticking out past my chuck over three to four inches depending on depth of cut, rigidity of material, etc., as it gave me better results and less deflection.

 

Righty = Tighty
Lefty = Loosey