That says it, thinking about sending my 336 XLR off to JES for a rebore to 38-55. Then cutting the barrel back to 18.5" to match my 444P and 1895GS. Am I crazy, stupid, deranged or just infected? Let me hear what you think, please. DP PS. Already have an M 375 and 38-55 CB so not even a "need", just a want. OR should I just chop the 375? (NOOOOOOOOOO!!!) DP
XLR 38-55
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Sounds like a very useful and unique rifle. The 375 is a classic now and I think it would be harder for me to chop it down. I just took a 444 barrel to my smith to trim it to 18.5, got a '74 336 yesterday that I'm going to screw that barrel into. Both should be great timber elk/ camp bear guns! and of course we need pictures of the project..
james
james
Still thinkin on it. :-\Just can't seem to leave well enough alone. :
Now, if I were to chop the 375, that would make the remaining ones worth more. Sooooo, if anyone owning an M 375 were to send $10.00 toward the project, 20.00 if ya own 2, I might be convinced to chop the 375. ;D ;D OK, never mind. Picketpin, is that a micro-groove or Ballard barrel? Around our part of the country, a heavy hittin camp gun can be a real comfort out in the mountains. How far from Billings are ya? DP
Now, if I were to chop the 375, that would make the remaining ones worth more. Sooooo, if anyone owning an M 375 were to send $10.00 toward the project, 20.00 if ya own 2, I might be convinced to chop the 375. ;D ;D OK, never mind. Picketpin, is that a micro-groove or Ballard barrel? Around our part of the country, a heavy hittin camp gun can be a real comfort out in the mountains. How far from Billings are ya? DP
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dpe.. Hope you get some takers on your fund drive.. lol. the chopped 375 would be even more unique than the xlr.. I know what you mean about leaving stuff alone.. The 444 barrel is an SS from Numrich, it is microgroove, I wanted an un-ported Pistol grip 444p with a narrow hammer, no safety and a gold trigger.. Would have been miles and dollars ahead to just buy a new one and have my smith shorten that, but I'm learning about pulling barrels and indexing.. Head spacing .. opening up ejection ports..
I live in Bozeman.. not too far, seems like there are quite a few of us M.O.s between say Ronan and Billings.
james
I live in Bozeman.. not too far, seems like there are quite a few of us M.O.s between say Ronan and Billings.
james
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Plus I would have it drilled for a tang sight. Of course now I'm spending your money....but my advice is free. ;D
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Don't drill and tap the tang if the serial numbers are on the tang. Buy a tang sight base adapter. If you drill and tap through the serial numbers, in the federal laws you are defacing the numbers. Not only will the rifle be worthless but you can be arrested and criminally charge and after conviction you may not ever pass a back ground check again.City Slicker said:
TO NY
This is to be something quick handling like my 444P or my Guide Gun, not a long range shooter. I have 2- 28" barrels in 38-55 for that, or as Wind and Wet Dog have proven, the 38-55 CB is also able to shoot out to 150-200 yd. : ;D No Tang sight, maybe a peep like the P wears, or better open sights, or scoped with a scout mount, or maybe a 1.5-2.5 power Weaver in the normal position. Think Snap Shootin guys. DP
;D No Tang sight, maybe a peep like the P wears, or better open sights, or scoped with a scout mount, or maybe a 1.5-2.5 power Weaver in the normal position. Think Snap Shootin guys. DP
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2,031 Posts
I'm certainly no expert, but I thought you needed at least one hole drilled for the adapter.
MARLIN MODELS 336, 30, 1895, 1894
Installation of the Tang Sight on Marlin Lever Action Rifles must be precise so
that the Tang Sight is perfectly centered in the cutout in the rear of the bolt
when the bolt is in the full open position.
It is necessary to use the supplied adapter block so that the serial number on the
upper tang is not damaged and the height is correct. Three screws are supplied
with this model. All Marlin lever actions must be drilled and tapped for the
middle adapter screw. Remove the lower stock screw, insert the new longer stock
screw to align the adapter on the tang. Mark the location of the center adapter
screw on the tang. It should be drilled and tapped for one of the short
10 - 32 screws supplied. Once drilled and tapped, align the adapter with the long
rear stock screw. Tighten the adapter in place with the center adapter screw.
Remove the stock screw used for alignment. Place the tang sight on top of the
adapter, insert the stock screw in place and tighten slightly. Insert the front tang
screw. Tighten both the front and rear tang screws evenly.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, but looks like this is gonna be on hold for a while. Just got the bill from the hospital for somethin done last fall, even with 2 insurance policies I gotta come up with over half the bill. A guy otta get kissed when he gets a colonoscopy, cause ya sure get it in the end, more ways than one. :-\ DP
Just got the bill from the hospital for somethin done last fall, even with 2 insurance policies I gotta come up with over half the bill. A guy otta get kissed when he gets a colonoscopy, cause ya sure get it in the end, more ways than one. :-\ DP1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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