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Discussion Starter #1
The 700 guard is the right width but about 1/16 inch short. Since the front screw is a wood screw, it would be very easy to make a change with epoxy. Just fill the old hole and front gap, then drill a new pilot hole.

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Bruce

 

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Thanks for the info, Bruce - might have to look into that for my XL7C. Never liked plastic trigger guards. I recently found a metal Win 70 TG that I'm going to install on the ranger model I'm re-stock in wood. Other than the stock (and I prefer walnut there), plastic on a rifle just seems out of place to me.
 

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I'm on it... thanks for the info.

The metal trigger guards are about same price as the plastic one. :eek:
 

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You'd think aftermarket parts (trigger guards, etc) would be available for the XL-7 by now. So far, I've seen ziltch.
 

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funny you should post this now because I was just wondering if this would look after seeing a blind mag 700 last monday
 

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Great tip! Thanks
 

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Just curious.

If you buy a plastic gun, why would you care if it had a plastic trigger guard? If it is good enough for the stock why isn't it good enough for the trigger guard?
 

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flyingfool said:
Just curious.

If you buy a plastic gun, why would you care if it had a plastic trigger guard? If it is good enough for the stock why isn't it good enough for the trigger guard?
+1

I was thinking the same thing when this thread started.
 

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flyingfool said:
Just curious.

If you buy a plastic gun, why would you care if it had a plastic trigger guard? If it is good enough for the stock why isn't it good enough for the trigger guard?
some people have had issues with the rear receiver screw, it's easy to over tighten it, which can crack the hole on the trigger guard and cause difficult cycling of the bolt
 

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How tight should you get the rear screw? I just experienced the previously mentioned bolt issues before I determined what I had done.
 

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Hmm. 38 in/lbs was way to tight. But I now think the problem was that the screw was sticking through the tang and the bolt was hitting the screw, not binding cause I had over tightened. So, here's my really dumb question, is the long screw for the rear/tang and the shorter one for the action? It has to be because the long one sticks in to the chamber, but if I tighten the rear/tang screw much past about 20-25 in/lbs it gets in the way of the bolt travel.

Thanks!
 
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