[Shutterbug57]

Hi, y'all. I am new here and recently picked up a XL7 with the scope package. I have read much on this forum and here is what I have experienced. I am interested in the input from this group.

1. The package scope rings are junk. They would not hold the scope still and it scooted forward about .62 inches. It did not matter how tight you made the rings, the scope would move. I fitted new weaver rings and 2 piece mounts and solved this problem. The 1 piece package mount was fine, I just don't like the looks of the 1 piece mount.

2. Once I got the scope to stay put, I zeroed it in. I can get a pretty tight 3 shot group, then the group migrates, sometimes several inches. I have shot 6" 5 shot groups that had a first three at an inch or less. I have chalked this up to either the scope being junk, but I have read reasonable reviews on this scope or the stock being out of adjustment.

3. I can run a dollar bill under the barrel from the right side (looking from the back) but it hits the little pad the barrel is supposed to rest on on the left side.

Given that a new stock is cheaper than a new scope (not to mention much better looking than the injection molded barrelled action holder the factory put on) I have a new Boyds' Featherweight Thumbhole in Nutmeg Laminate coming - should be here Monday. I will see if that fixes the problem. Even if it does not fix the POI problem, it will be worth the $$$ cosmetically.

Here are my questions:

A. What is the experience of the group with the factory scopes?

B. When the factory stock is acting as mine is, does a new stock generally fix the issue?

C. For those who have mounted a Boyds' stock, did you glass bed it or just bolt it on? I am figuring I will just bolt it on at first and glass bed it if I don't like the accuracy after shooting it for a while.

I really appreciate the input from this group.

 

[muss1980]

First thing I did was get Leupold rings and bases. I do not like anything else. I bought a boyds for my wife and it dropped right in and with the right load it shoots just fine. For my daughters I switched the stock that came for my wifes and it shoots better. Hope that helps

 

[Hakkapeliitta]

Hi and welcome

A. Generally, I don't trust any factory scopes that comes with a new rifle. Usually they hold the zero just fine, and if you´re a good shot you can get some decent groups too. But you never know when that tube will fail on you. That´s why I don't trust em. Those scopes usually cost like 20$ no matter what people may state. My Marlin didn't come with scope package, but I had Chinese factory scope with my Browning A-Bolt, it was pretty decent, but one day it just fogged up and I threw it in garbage can. I'm using Warne scope rings and Burris scope. The factory 1 piece base is actually pretty good. I just had to tighten the screws up a little bit when I got my gun out of the package.

B. Most likely yes. I've had similar accuracy problems with my XL7. I could get some decent 3 shot 1-1,5" groups, but after that I started to get "fliers" everywhere. The problem was solved by sanding down the side of the stock so the barrel sit correctly on the pressure pads. Now I get sub moa groups like .350 - .650

I have Youtube channel where I will upload my Marlin videos about accuracy, handloads and so on... It´s a new channel but I'll try to be active as possible, uploading videos and answering questions. I don't have much material yet, but I'm working on it http://www.youtube.com/user/Morrimoo

 

[sansone]

Hi and welcome

A. Generally, I don't trust any factory scopes that comes with a new rifle. Usually they hold the zero just fine, and if you´re a good shot you can get some decent groups too. But you never know when that tube will fail on you. That´s why I don't trust em. Those scopes usually cost like 20$ no matter what people may state. My Marlin didn't come with scope package, but I had Chinese factory scope with my Browning A-Bolt, it was pretty decent, but one day it just fogged up and I threw it in garbage can.

B. Most likely yes. I've had similar accuracy problems with my XL7. I could get some decent 3 shot 1-1,5" groups, but after that I started to get "fliers" everywhere. The problem was solved by sanding down the side of the stock so the barrel sit correctly on the pressure pads. Now I get sub moa groups like .350 - .650

I agree with hakka, and add this: The stock is the weak link on these rifles. I had the good fortune of swapping stocks with my buddy and groups went from 2" to 1" immediately. The pressure pads and sides of the stock are critical for accuracy.
Also: you should use a ring lapping kit BEFORE mounting a scope on new rings. Unless you buy Good rings, you would be shocked to see how "out-of-line" most new rings are. The lapping kits are about $35 and you can test the rings for alignment BEFORE starting to remove material.

 

[Shutterbug57]

Thanks to all who have posted so far. Well, today I ruled out the scope as the culprit. I mounted my Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 and was able to shoot 5 shot groups that were at about an inch for the first 3, then flyers for the last 2. Given that this is a known scope, I think it will be interesting to see what the new stock does next week. I am hopeful that the stock will solve the problem.

BTW, I took the package scope from the XL7 and put it on my Mini-14 and was consistently hitting (75%) the 6" steel plate at the 200 yard mark on the range today. The scope may or may not last, but it is certainly hunting accurate.

 

[GJinNY]

interesting thread, especially about running a dollar bill under the barrel....I can only go about 1/2" from the fore-end stock of my XL7 until it catches and stops. I want to pull the stock off....how many/which screws come out?

 

[Click Click Boom]

The stock is pressure bedded and the issue that usually shows itself is fliers or stringing when the barrel gets heated up. The boyds stock should solve that problem.

The package deal scopes are always the bottom line of whichever manufacturer happened to be lowest bidder! I wouldn't hunt with them in bad weather.

 

[Sub95]

sense you are getting a new stock, I would sand down the pressure points and left side of stock, so the stock is not touching the barrel anymore and go shoot it. the groups will tighten way up.


alot of the factory stocks are coming with a twist in them and touching the barrel and creating unequal pressure at the pressure points, you can shoot a couple of rounds through it but once it warms up you get fliers.

 

[Shutterbug57]

sense you are getting a new stock, I would sand down the pressure points and left side of stock, so the stock is not touching the barrel anymore and go shoot it. the groups will tighten way up.


alot of the factory stocks are coming with a twist in them and touching the barrel and creating unequal pressure at the pressure points, you can shoot a couple of rounds through it but once it warms up you get fliers.

Sounds like a Quality Control problem at the factory. Sure these are inexpensive guns, but if you have to be the QC & Rework Departments, that takes a good bit of the value out of the gun. If the new stock fixes the problem as most think it will, I will either send the stock stock back to Marlin and see what they do or pitch it. I have little interest in being Marlin's Rework Department.

 

[WYcoyote]

I would sand off the pressure pads that contact the barrel and thus free float it.
The pressure point method is very inconsistent, and getting a new stock from Marlin might not fix a thing.
It is just a cost effective manufacturing design and some rifles shoot better with it, but tolerances can put uneven force on the barrel and as it heats up it magnifies. If you want a perfectly bedded stock you need to open your wallet a lot more either when buying the gun or having it done for you. I am kind of cheap so I learned how to do it myself. I glass bed and free float all my bolt rifles to eliminate the variables of the pressure point stock.
Marlins idea of how good an under $300 rifle should shoot is probably under ours, and they would be happy with those first three shots.
You should see an improvement with the Boyds. Let us know how that works out.

 

[sansone]

^^^^^ what he said ;D

 

[GJinNY]

How many and which bolts come out to take the stock off?

 

[Halwg]

Wow, if these guns are that touchy, I certainly don't want one.

 

[Mr Fixit]

Spring is here and the temps are getting tolerable again. Hal, get one of the older XL7 and get rid of the plastic stock like I did, then put it in a walnut Boyds stock....then she'll look as good as she shoots! The standard XL7 shot good with the plastic, but now it looks nicer and shoots as well if not better. I don't know if problems are arising as with the levers and Remington taking over or what, glad I got my 30-06 back when they first came out. Mr fixit

 

[sansone]

How many and which bolts come out to take the stock off?

just the rear trig guard bolt & the one under the barrel locking-lugs.. forward trig guard bolts remains.

 

[sansone]

Wow, if these guns are that touchy, I certainly don't want one.

just a small percentage need stock tweeking.
most people are happy with the out of box accuracy, better than most blue-collar guns

 

[Shutterbug57]

I am probably picker than many. For deer, the out of the box accuracy was fine unless you miss a lot and need to shoot more than three times in quick succession to hit the deer and it is over 100 yards away. The first 2 shots were a very tight group, the 3rd was about 0.5" away and the fliers did not come in til the 4th & 5th shots. Given that I plan to shoot living targets smaller than deer with my gun, and more than one at a time sometimes, I wanted to dial in the accuracy.

BTW, the new stock just got here (I work from home). I inspected it and installed it over lunch. I can't wait to shoot it, I hope to get to the range tomorrow. If it shoots anywhere near how it looks, it will be great. The stock was worth the $$$ just in the improved looks of the gun. The barreled action dropped right into the stock. If I decide later that I want to up the accuracy, I will glass bed (or have it done) the action and leave the barrel free-floated.

 

[hogcaller]

I have never bought a scoped rifle package. You always get cheap mounts and rings and the scopes are usually very low end. Just get the rifle and save your time and money by adding quality stuff that you know works! Just my .02 cents...........

 

[BR549]

shutterbug, it sounds like your barrel is heating up and making contact somewhere other than the pads. Since you have a new Boyds, just shoot it for now and later you can glass bed it. I just pillar and glass bedded my Boyds classic and putting in the rear pillar was a lot of fun. Good luck.

 

[Shutterbug57]

I have never bought a scoped rifle package. You always get cheap mounts and rings and the scopes are usually very low end. Just get the rifle and save your time and money by adding quality stuff that you know works! Just my .02 cents...........

This one was a find and the scope and rings were basically free. I was out of town and browsing the gun stores. I had been looking for an inexpensive 30-06 and the Marlins have a good rep. I talked business with the shop owner and paid very little for the scope and rings over the street price for just the gun .

I agree with you, however, about the quality. The rings were junk and the scope is a cheapo, but it works at least for now. I doubt I would buy a package again in the future, but this shop did not have just the rifle, which was the leverage to get the price down.