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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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The target knob model ads a lot of dimension over the regular sight, and the only difference I can see is the knobs. It is not a better sight, it just has those big knobs hanging out on it, I have that model on one of my rifles. For hunting, I would not go with the target knobs. How often are you going to be readjusting your sights once you're dialed in? That is the only advantage to the target knobs. I can't accurately answer the front sight question based on the available data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The target knob model ads a lot of dimension over the regular sight, and the only difference I can see is the knobs. It is not a better sight, it just has those big knobs hanging out on it, I have that model on one of my rifles. For hunting, I would not go with the target knobs. How often are you going to be readjusting your sights once you're dialed in? That is the only advantage to the target knobs. I can't accurately answer the front sight question based on the available data.
I'm going to use the target knobs while hunting as well as target shooting. My 30-30 is very accurate (just as every other Marlin is that's been taken care of). I have no doubt I'll be able to make shots out to 300 yards with it. I saw a video today on YouTube of a fella banging gongs at 1050 yards with a Marlin 30-30 and peep sight. My experience is that if you hit your mark with a 150-180gr bullet moving at least 1000fps you're gonna have meat in the freezer.

There aren't many reviews on Brownells but I read some in a couple other places that indicate the sight returns to "0" very nicely after making adjustments for further distances. I'd rather hunt with my lever gun than my Rem 700 these days. Maybe I'm getting old?

Hopefully someone will post up that has a similar setup. Would make choosing the front sight a heck of a lot easier.
 

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I have that sight but without the target knobs. I think the knobs will be obtrusive when hunting.

And, yes, if you count the "clicks" you can return it to zero very well.

If you notice, there is a tiny set screw that holds the knobs in place on both the horizontal and vertical knobs. So, if you are going to adjust the knobs in the field, you STILL need a screwdriver since the set screws are critical in keeping it in the right place.

As far as a front Firesight, I have an opinion on that that may interest you.

I have the Williams FP on a couple of my lever rifles. I started with one on my 39A and kept the front bead. Here is the problem I ran into. Because I squirrel hunt with it, the bead was big enough to nearly cover the squirrel so I had to rely on lining my target up with the top of the bead. When I did this, my brain would try to center the bead in the rear sight, some, bot not all, the time. therefore, I ended up having a group that was 1/2" wide and over 1+" high at 50 yards. Now, if I could center the bead in the rear sight and center the bead on the target, I could ALWAYS get 1/2" groups at 50 yards every time so I realized I had a problem with the setup "confusing" my mind because the top of the bead sometimes was centered and sometimes the bead itself was centered. It drove me nuts.

Aperture sight picture? - Ruger Forum

A 1/16" bead will cover about a 4" diameter at 50 yards.

Now, if I had that same setup but for deer hunting, I'd just center the darn bead on the kill zone and BANG FLOP.

I ended up getting a POST front sight from Skinner and can now shoot the leg off a mosquito with it.
 

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1. If your rifle has scope mount holes on top of the receiver, buy the FP-336 model. If not, buy the FP-94/336 model.
2. The full TK version is overkill. Buy the standard, non-TK, model from Brownells. Once you get windage adjusted for your load/cartridge you will seldom need to readjust. Cuts down on the bulk considerably.
3. Order only the elevation target knob separately and install it in the sight.
4. Also order Brownell's elevation adjustment lock screw with the knob on it. You won't need a screwdriver to loosen the elevation gib lock screw.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-screws/foolproof-target-knobs-prod27362.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/rear-sights/foolproof-receiver-sights-prod41900.aspx

This is what I did for an 1895CB until I succumbed to the temptation to get an MVA tang.
 

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What Tatersoup said about front sights. If you are dead set on a firesight, and there isn't any reason not to, call Williams and ask them what height front sight they recommend with your setup. Who should know better than them.

For me, all I use is Skinner front post sights. Purchased over-height and filed down to suit my needs for zero. Then apply a little permanent marker or cold blue on the filed section. Six o'clock hold is my preference with a nice square topped blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. If your rifle has scope mount holes on top of the receiver, buy the FP-336 model. If not, buy the FP-94/336 model.
2. The full TK version is overkill. Buy the standard, non-TK, model from Brownells. Once you get windage adjusted for your load/cartridge you will seldom need to readjust. Cuts down on the bulk considerably.
3. Order only the elevation target knob separately and install it in the sight.
4. Also order Brownell's elevation adjustment lock screw with the knob on it. You won't need a screwdriver to loosen the elevation gib lock screw.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-screws/foolproof-target-knobs-prod27362.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/sights/rear-sights/foolproof-receiver-sights-prod41900.aspx

This is what I did for an 1895CB until I succumbed to the temptation to get an MVA tang.
Very good suggestions there, BFPGW. I wasn't aware I could buy the target knobs individually. I like that option better. It ought to cut down on a lot of unnecessary snags and whatnot.

Anyone have an idea of what front sight I should get? I've read that a .343 front sight is needed, but I don't know if its for newer models with sight rambs or older models with front sight dovetailed into barrel.
 

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Agree. No knobs on a hunter. No fat 1/16 beads, fire or otherwise. A thin flat top post has always been the accuracy champ for me. Some like another aperture on the front. Never worked well for me, but may be ok if time is not an issue.
 

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Very good suggestions there, BFPGW. I wasn't aware I could buy the target knobs individually. I like that option better. It ought to cut down on a lot of unnecessary snags and whatnot.

Anyone have an idea of what front sight I should get? I've read that a .343 front sight is needed, but I don't know if its for newer models with sight rambs or older models with front sight dovetailed into barrel.
That height would be ramped. No way a .343 could be right for a dovetailed barrel with a receiver peep on a 30-30. I would still call Williams if you want a bead style sight. The problem with the bead sights is you can't adjust it by filing it down. If you have any way of measuring the current front sight that will help Williams offer a solution. You would need a caliper or similar tool. Measure from the bottom of the dovetail to the top of the bead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tatersoup and BFPGW,

You guys might be right. I didn't know those Firesight front beads were that big. I agree that a flat top front blade/post would probably be better. I'm used to AR A2 style sights anyway so that would probably be a more natural option.

What sight do you guys recommend? I can't use the Marlin front sight bead. I can't focus on it like I'm supposed to when shooting.
 

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Front Sights

Measure the width of your ramp. It will be either 1/4" or 3/8" wide.

Andy shows .500" height for a 30-30 Marlin but that is with his std receiver sights, which are a bit higher off the receiver than the FP-336. It doesn't matter though if you have a fine toothed flat file. You can take it down to whatever height you need. Just go slow and hold the file perpendicular to the post.

Install both sights, sight down the bore with the bolt removed and adjust to see the same view thru the sights. Then shoot it and adjust. If your rear sight is too high off the receiver take some height off the front sight with the file until your receiver sight rests as low as you want it to be at your "zero" adjustment. Leave a little room to adjust down but most of your adjustment range will remain in the upward direction.
 
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