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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious for the older pre-1900 guns, what oil do people prefer?

Mark/MarlinRifleMan
 

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Synthetic two stroke for moving parts and bore/chamber sparingly, and gun wax on external metal surfaces. (for vintage firearms) Just what I like, may not be best, but works for me and my toys. Atf and kerosene for cleaning.
 

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I use rand CLP for all cleaning and oil. I have tried a lot of stuff. Hoppies #9, sweets, break free CLP, frog lube, and a few others. Rand CLP blows them all away. It's oily, yet has a grease like quality. You can wipe it "dry" but it still has an oil like quality on the parts. It cleans in a single pass or two. That's ten passes with a wet bronze brush and three clean dry patches and you are done.

Best part is it has zero smell. You can clean the gun in the den and the wife won't know or care! It's awesome.
 

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Sweetshooters in my opinion is the best I have ever seen for combating rust and for conditioning the bore but it is kinda hard to find and semi expensive. My buddy uses it on everything. I guess I use CLP for most all my firearms and have never had a problem.
 

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Hoppes number 9 to clean the bore, rem oil for outside cleaning and wipe down, hoppes lube for lubing action. I was given a can of Royal Purple gun oil by a rep to try and it's very good, leaves a slight oil residue after wiping off. Time will tell wether it will be a go to.
 

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Grew up with #9. Use Fireclean some but since 1985 CLP just makes me happy. Its pretty good, and I love the smell!!!
 

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I use Mil-Comm for oil and grease. They make the best stuff hands down.

I used to use Break free CLP and I still use Ballistol on certain fussy to take apart guns.
The NRA now "officially" use Mil-Comm products.

If it slides use grease, if it rolls use oil.
 

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Being in the sand, I like very little oil on my guns.:biggrin: CLP, Tri Flow, etc. I am not sure the gun knows any difference, they all work, with some having a better hyperbole filled ad writer.

I know for a fact, more guns have been ruined by over oiling, which collects dirt and grit, which then acts like a tool maker finishing a precision gage on their lapping plate, than guns have been ruined by leaving them on the dry side.
 

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Synthetic two stroke for moving parts and bore/chamber sparingly, and gun wax on external metal surfaces. (for vintage firearms) Just what I like, may not be best, but works for me and my toys. Atf and kerosene for cleaning.
Whut he sez...
I also use the synthetic from my bike Rotella T5 - excellent lubricant.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All really good inputs, thank you.

I was told by an old timer that oil is good for metal but hard on wood. He said to use lemon pledge, no crap. He says just spray it on and wipe it off (both metal and wood). Anyone ever hear of that?

Mark/MarlinRifleMan
 

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Talk about a topic that will generate as many different opinions as there are members!!! But I'll give it a try.... :biggrin: I use Mobil 1 Synthetic. If it's good enough for a $500K race car engine, my guns should be happy that I feed them the same diet. Used sparingly, it sticks, doesn't get too thin when heated up, and keeps doing its job. Check out this website on the performance characteristics of Mobil 1 synthetic: Mobil 1 synthetic makes a fantastic gun oil. (Caution: Geek Stuff.) - Democratic Underground\

Secondly, I use white lithium grease on all parts under load like my bolt. A highly polished bolt + grease moves slicker than snot.

Lastly, no oil or grease knows where it is going to be used. Please don't hit me with: "Gun oil is for guns and motor oil is for cars". I don't want to duel with a quadriplegic..... :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 

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"and gun wax on external metal surfaces" Quoted from post #3 of this thread. And quoted again post #15. Museums use wax on antique metal surfaces.
 

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I use pledge on my cast iron table saw to protect it.
 
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