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Right now i'm using Hoppe's oil. It's pretty basic and seems to do the job. Seems to collect dirt though - maybe i'm using too much? Anyway, I'm curious about alternatives. Especially from a slickin-up standpoint. I once saw some bright red grease or oil on a cowboy's gun once and always wondered what it was. Also, does anyone use grease, if so, on what parts of the gun?

Thanx 4 your time!
 

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"Tetra", pretty slick stuff...a little goes a long ways. Does'nt gum up. have used "Slick 50" motor oil and it work really well, plus it will impregnate the metal (so they say) but a quart lasts several lifetimes! CLP is my prefered cleaner/lube.
 

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I've become a fan of CLP on all my guns. It started with the Springfield XD and the more research I did, the more I liked it. It's approved by the military and used by the 55 gallon drums on everything except for firearms in the sandbox. It still has a slight tack when dried and the fine dust there is still too much.
A couple things sold me on it. I cleaned a shotgun barrel with Hoppes #9 which i've used for years, went to lube the barrel for storage with some CLP and the patch came out black. So much for a clean barrel. It also is very smooth in any temp.
I'm sold! actually just picked up another can of it last night.
Tim
 

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I think the best grease I've found yet is called "Pro-Shot" , I use it on anything that is supposed to slide . As for oil I like CLP as well though I'm sure there are other things too , I use it on anything that rotates such as pins .

Jack
 

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I am going to try CLP. To answer the first question, or kind of a twist on the first question: When I got my brand new 39A, it levered rough and stuck, kid of hitched up a bit about 1/3 of the way closed. Well, I borke down the rifle and honed lightly all the rough milling on lifter and adjoined parts and then used a dab of lithium grease ( white) on the parts. I shot probably 300 rds through it cleaned and oiled it, and it cycled and levered pretty smooth, and it just get better. I just installed a Wisners ejector, going to shoot it for the first time on Sat. 23rd.
 

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You can keep all the New Super Lubes, with all the super slick "Active Additives" that are procured on another Planet, or in another Solar System............They're not as good as.....................

Marvel Mystery Oil....................

Tom
 

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All the above are excellent.

I use KROIL and White Lithium grease on my Widdermatic Marlins (1894's).

I use the grease on the bolt channel where the ejector slides and also just a little on the snail cam where it rotates on the carrier ramp.

Then, I use a couple drops of KROIL on top of the bolt and spread it around with a Q-tip to give me just a thin coat.


..........Widder
 

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They all work well, but the key is to use it sparingly! Too much of any lube will gum up the works.
 

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shooter69, says it best. I use hoppes #9 mostly.
 

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Most folks tend to overdo the lube. Sort of like BrylKreem (sp?) - - "a dab'll dooya" - - most of the time.

For dry, dusty (read: sandy, fine grit) conditions, I still use machinist grade gaphite. For everything else, CLP works about as well as anything for lube.
 

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I use Rem oil, but the old standby of Lubriplate gets on any actions I use.

This is the same Lubriplate that was used when everyone built engines and was applide as the engine was being asembled.I still half of a quart can, probably 50yrs old and I still use it.New is not always better.

Probably none of the youngters here know about engine rebuild except for may be some racers.
 

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TomRay, Marvel Mystery Oil as a gun lube? I've never heard of that before. Just out of curiosity, what did Marlin use at the factory?
 

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44-40 Willy said:
TomRay, Marvel Mystery Oil as a gun lube? I've never heard of that before. Just out of curiosity, what did Marlin use at the factory?

Willy,

Try the Mystery Oil..........I think you'll be surprised. I've been using it for probably 25+ years........I really don't know how long..........
Re: what was used at Marlin??.............Nothing really special, but then, there were some Breakfree cans around too.

Mostly, the oil in the actions was the oil from the oil bath that the parts were dipped in, after coming out of the blueing process..........I recall that was a product called "Rust Zero"...........
Stainless?.........same oil..........nothing special, just something to prevent rusting.

Tom
 

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Tomray said:
You can keep all the New Super Lubes, with all the super slick "Active Additives" that are procured on another Planet, or in another Solar System............They're not as good as.....................

Marvel Mystery Oil....................

Tom


Interesting! I've never used Mystery Oil on my guns, but I work at an IR optics company and we use it in conjunction with mineral spirits as a lubricant to diamond turn mirrors for the military.
 

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Rem oil
 

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CLP is an excellent short term lubricant and long term rust protector. Unfortunately, it becomes gummy after about a year of non-use. Still has it's protectant abilities, but requires a thorough cleaning to get the firearm fully functional again.

A renown 1911 gunsmith I've spent some time with simply uses 5w-30 for everything, saying if it was good enough for Mr Moses.....

Some high speed LEO shooters I hang out with use Gibbs as an easy to apply, lightweight lube for their semi and full auto's.

My take is there is no 'one' univeral lubricant. The most important thing is to use SOME type of lubricant. If you don't like how it is performing, change it up. You should even find something that works for you in the various lubricants a homeowner keeps around the house. A seasonal hunter who MAYBE fires 10 rounds in a year is probally going to need something different than some of the 100+ round a week MarlinOwners folks, which might need something different than the 600+ round classes that tactical shooters go through.

The only thing I wouldn't recommend is WD-40 and other water displacing penetrants. Their lubrication properties are weak or lacking.
 
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