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What about the trigger in my .35 Rem 336, built 1984. I love the gun and it shoots fine as best I can tell. But I hear alot of complaints around here about the stock Marlin triggers. I guess I've never had a rifle with a good trigger pull because I can't tell the difference between my 336 trigger and any other rifle I've ever shot.

But still, I want my .35 to be the best it can be.

So, what would improving the trigger do for me? How would it feel different. Why would I shoot better because of the improved trigger. What is it about the improved trigger that makes them better? I guess the stock trigger is to heavy with something like about an 8lb pull. Well, I've never had any trouble pulling the trigger, so how is a lighter trigger gonna be better?

I guess I'm still a beginning rifleman compared to most here so I sure could stand to be enlightened with your collective knowledge. So here I stand, ready to be taken to school - I need a little "triggernometry" as my Poppie used to call it.

What's the best thing I can do for my trigger without spending alot of scratch?
 

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First of all, there is no point in working on the trigger if you shoot well with it. I felt the same way you did about 4 years ago. I got to shooting quite a bit and found that a couple of my guns shot a lot more accurate than the others. The thing these had in common was a good trigger. A good trigger should be consistant. There should be no travel more than what is necessary. A good target trigger will go off without you hardly knowing that it was pressed. A harder to pull trigger stretches out the anticipation giving you that chance to overcompensate, flinch, or pull to the side. An 8 pound trigger would not go off if you were handling the gun by the trigger. (holding it upside down by the trigger). That in my opinion would be worse than most. I have several Marlins of recent manufacture and found only my 357 had a decent trigger. Some will stone them. Info on this procedure is in the internet. Marauder.com springs to mind. I replaced my factory triggers with a Wild West Happy trigger. It was simple to install and makes a consistant 3# pull. As much as I shoot, I found my groups improved by at least 50% and in one case 100%. Probably makes less sense to do this on a gun that 30 shots are sent through per year, but I really have enjoyed mine. I ordered a 444 the other day and went right out and ordered a happy trigger. I know ahead of time that the improvement will be worth it shooting as much as I do. Actually, when you get used to one, it is hard to go back. Mine cost me about 79 bucks. Sometimes on sale they are 10$ less.
 

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The only way to know if your .35's trigger is heavy, is to measure it.

I don't know what other rifles you are comparing to. There has been a tendency to go with heavier and heavier triggers on factory rifles to prevent accidental discharge injuries and ensuing leagal actions. Yours may not be effected by this.

On my Marlins they all have a pretty good trigger. The 1948 vintage A has the best and the others are from the '70s and they are OK also. VTDW posted some information about cleaning up some of the parts your self and improving your own. This is something most people can do but must be EXTREMELY careful with it. I did some of the stuff and in my case did not really lighten the trigger but it has less 'creep' before it breaks and is a little smoother. Of course I am going real slow with it and can do some more and possibly lighten it up some in the future. Right now though it works well and since it ain't broke....

To answer your question more directly. A lighter and as importantly crisper trigger pull that always breaks or fires at the same point greatly helps with the consistency needed to shoot more accurately. Also the less effort needed to fire the rifle will disturb it less before it fires and (dangerously) assuming you are aiming well good breath control and stuff like that the less disturbance of the rifle the more accurately most folks shoot.

Hope this helps some and more experienced folks can certainly explain it better and give more reasons for a good trigger.
 

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Repeated firing when practicing gives you good muscle control for all that is needed to make your groups shrink with or without a light trigger pull. With a light trigger pull it only gets better. One thing about accuracy and heavy trigger pull is you have to use more pressure ergo more muscle. When you hold a rifle during a target session it is most likely on a bench, when at a bench we have a tendency to hold tightly to our shoulder to prevent recoil and we flex the pectoral muscle at the moment we are squeezing the trigger and slightly tilt the rifle at that moment and it causes a flyer and we wonder how it happened, this is a cause for some of them. A lighter trigger pull lessons the amount you pull to your shoulder eliminating some of this problem. Yours for better groups. Swany
 

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To sum it up from my perspective, it is much easier to shoot well with a trigger that is lighter, moves less before letoff, and moves less after letoff.

I would caution you about using a stone or otherwise modifying the engagement of mating trigger parts. It is sensitive work that should be left to knowledgeable and experienced persons. Also, triggers differ greatly between different firearm models. Correct work on one is not necessarily correct work on another. I know there are many do-it-yourselfers here, of which I am one. But trigger operation is critical to the proper operation of any gun, and improper trigger work can be seriously dangerous.

I have felt the trigger on swany's CB and fired it. It is easy to shoot well because it has a nice trigger.

Live well
 

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I agree with everybody here about the need for a good trigger, and the trigger on my 336SC stinks! It breaks cleanly but has about a 10 lb. pull and, being a 1953 model, would not accept a Wild West trigger. I'm generally a do-it-myselfer but have no experience with trigger jobs and don't want to screw up the gun. Does anybody know a good Marlinsmith I could send it to?
 

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I have to agree with the general notion that working on hammer and trigger mating surfaces can be treacherous! Over the past 32+ years, I have tackled many projects on many types of guns, Marlins being at the forefront. I always figured that if I ruined a sear or notch beyond repair, I would either be out a lot of money for replacements or welding / reworking. Wild West triggers are $89.00, but work as advertised. I just put one in my new 410 and have one standing by for my new 336.
 

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http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/marlin33.htm

http://www.marauder13.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

http://www.leverguns.com/articles/Marlin_Information.htm


Hey,

There is a lot of information attached. I included the 336 Parts breakdown in 3 different formats and also a link.

I strongly suggest you become thoroughly familiar with the parts breakdown by taking your rifle apart and putting it back together at least a couple of times(at least down to where you can pull out the hammer). While doing that look at the parts diagram and instructions in each step and examine each part you take off of your rifles.

Read and re-read the information until you really understand what it says. Take your time and no shortcuts. If you remember my earlier post on Marlin Owners, I almost screwed up my trigger on my 444S because I was confident after working over my 30-30 trigger and it almost cost me dearly. I do not know of anyone that can sell you another hammer/seer & trigger. If it takes 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 times...then do it that way because there is absolutely no reason to hurry.

In addition to all of the above, links and attachments I used a points file to smooth the sides of the hammer as it rubs as it slides back and forth on the pin/bolt/screw. In fact, while I was at it I slicked up the action quite well.

After I had already worked over 2 of my Marlins I purchased 2 el-cheapo file sets. They are very small, only about 6" long or so. One is a diamond set (probably dusted) and the other is steel. Both sets come in all angles, flat, triangle, curved etc. Those sets allowed me to work over my 444SS trigger in about 10 minutes. I still need to slick the action.

Go Slow And Take Your Time. There is nothing to worry about if you do it slowly and methodically. Make sure you understand which seer angle on the hammer is for half-cock and which one is for the trigger seer engagement so you won't waste time working on the half-cock. I won't go into how I discovered that. LOL. Because I had no instructions at the time I did the first rifle.

Feel free to stay in touch as I would like to know how your work progresses.

REMEMBER---a little at a time and put it back together, all the way together then try the trigger pull. Then do it again. No short cuts please.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you all for you kind and informative replies. I'm not sure about trying to work on the trigger myself. I was out shooting a little on Saturday and I noticed a couple of things.

1. I shot two rifles and couldn't feel much of a difference in the triggers either way. I was shooting off a bench. I also shot some slugs from my Rem 870 and new red dot sight. I did notice the shotgun trigger seemed to be "better" somehow but I have no idea what made it feel that way.

2. I wasn't really aware of the trigger or how much pressure it required to squeeze it on any gun I fired. I didn't feel any crispness or lack thereof. I didn't really notice any length of trigger pull.

So, perhaps I need to do alot more shooting before I would really notice or benefit from an improved trigger. I'll keep thinking about it and save all this info for reference when I am ready to approach it again.

Now, if you could be nice enough to see my post on the mis-fires :?
 
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