Marlin Firearms Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Well I bought my X7S 7mm-08 used about three months ago now. I finally got some perfect weather to range test it last weekend and all I can say is SON-OVA-BAN ME. I tried 2 scopes one being brand new the other my trusty test scope 4.5-16x44mm redfield gold star. Windage turret maxed out and was still hitting 12" left of my crosshairs. Switched to my brand new Simmons WTC 6.5-20x50mm and brand new Luepold rings, same outcome. "Well, super now I get to start pin pointing my issue." On a side note I happened to get so pissed I couldn't shoot well the rest of the day, talk about a bummer.
Fast forward to today. I clamped her into the vise and started checking for my problem. Checked that my scope rings were good, CHECK. Next moved to the scope rail, CHECK. Great there go the 2 easy fixed out the window. So next I pulled her apart and laid the action and barrel out on my grid. (Rubber mat for sewing with 1/4 inch grid lines printed on it.) Ok, finally a bit of relief the action and barrel are straight as can be. So I moved on to the stock. At first inspection it appeared fine. Eyeballed it down each side, top, and bottom, it seemed to look ok. The I laid it on the grid mat measures up nice and straight. Then as I went to pick it up. I grabbed the front of the foregrip, and thats when it happened! The stock was laying barrel channel down, and as I touched it, it rocked slightly to the left hand side of the stock. I took it over to the milling bench to be absolutely sure, and sure enough it had .095" of gap on the left front corner. (right by the pillar bed)
So it would appear that my factory stock is slightly twisted. Now the fun part, fixing it. As far as I can tell I have a handful of options: 1) order a boydes stock and say to hell (or eBay just kidding) with the factory stock. 2) Try some way to straighten the factory stock. 3) Work the factory barrel channel and free float the whole thing. Or 4) work the factory channel, then rebed the barrel with glass.
I'm open to any suggestions. The cons to each option in my opinion are: 1) Spending another $100-$150 on a rifle that as of now doesn't shoot worth squat. 2) No idea how or if this can even be done. 3) the X7S is designed to be bedded will it perform well free floated? And 4) Added time, effort, and weight while not yet knowing where this barrel will like its bedding pressure. So please help me out here guys how would you approach this issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
3) the X7S is designed to be bedded will it perform well free floated? .
Just to make sure to start with, when you mounted the scopes on the rifle, did you have the crosshairs centered? Meaning did you have the crosshairs centered in the scope body/range of adjustment to start with? The reason I ask is you called the redfield your "test scope". I assume it's been mounted/zeroed on many rifles. If you pulled it off hte last one and had the adjustments close to max already, then maybe you just didn't have enough adjustment left when you placed it on the marlin.

If you did center then disregard the following paragraph. If you didn't center then heer's some instructions:

You can mechanically zero the scope by carefully adjusting to one extreme until it stops (being careful not to force the turret and break the crosshair). Then count how many clicks it takes you to go to the other extreme adjustment. AFter you get that number, let's say 100 clicks, half it and adjust back that many clicks. So 50 clicks from extreme will put it centered in the adjustment range.

So I'm no gunsmith... however bedding and free floating are two different things. You bed the action to the stock, so when it's tightened together it sits the same way every time. You then free float the barrel so the stock does not touch the barrel, providing uneven pressure and possibly messing with the barrel harmonics.

It sounds like your stock is contacting the barrel unevenly. Several people on here have free floated their barrels with acceptable results (read not hurting accuracy).

The free and easiest option I think is trying to free float the barrel in the stock... just groove out the stock so it's not contacting the barrel anyplace forward of the pillar. If that doesn't help your accuracy maybe try something else... but it also sounds like it can't hurt things since you're shooting so far off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
I know Remington is not Marlin and whatever, but call the customer service and explain that you have a twisted stock as you have explained here. Then ask for a new stock. Can't hurt to try and find a free solution if your not inspired to put money down on a Boyds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have my test scope zeros written on it 2.25 turns+8 clicks. That's why she's my "trust test scope". :) Also on reassembly it's very clear that the barrel is getting more pressure from the RH side. I used some extra gap paper I had from my last head job on my ol' murder-cycle just to double check and tightened down I get a .015 difference between the left and right sides. I'm not so sure this is an accurate test but seems consistent with my theory. So next I'll float it and see if that straightens her out. Thanks for the input. I swear I've heard old guys around the range table talk about full glass bedding the action and barrel but perhaps I misunderstood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I know Remington is not Marlin and whatever, but call the customer service and explain that you have a twisted stock as you have explained here. Then ask for a new stock. Can't hurt to try and find a free solution if your not inspired to put money down on a Boyds.
I sent by brand new Rem 700 SPS-SS 7mm-RM back to Remington because once I got it home and tried to load it, it wouldn't always extract the case from the chamber, and would not ever eject the case. It would just drop it on top the rest of the rounds in the mag. Also it had the rear corners of the bolt lug broken or ground off. I'm not sure if this is now normal but on both my 1991 SA-BDL and my dad's 1981 LAM-BDL the bolt lug has sharp square corners. Remington had it 4 weeks. At which point they shipped it back with a work order saying "Rifle was test fired and functions fine." So then i made a video of it not functioning fine, took pictures of all 3 700 bolts and shipped it back for round 2. This time 6 weeks later it returned. The work order stated "While we could find nothing mechanically wrong with your rifle, we went ahead and replace the bolt as a gesture of good will." GOOD WILL!? boy they're some real sweethearts there at Remington. Just my own nasty experience with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
I swear I've heard old guys around the range table talk about full glass bedding the action and barrel but perhaps I misunderstood.
They are bedding the barreled action... but only the action (and maybe a small section of the beginning of the barrel) is what makes contact with the stock... here's a good article on how to do it

Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

here's another with good pics... just click on the pics in order to see the steps

http://www.americanrifleman.org/GalleryItem.aspx?cid=22&gid=162&id=1450
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
If you rifle has a guarantee why not use it and let them sort it out, if not floating the barrel should work as Marlin barrels are quite stiff. I use epoxy not glass, something like Selleys Plasti Bond. Put a couple of old targets in the barrel channel and squisch the action down into the wet epoxy. Trick is to not be mean with the epoxy and use more than you need and shoe polish or floor wax for a release agent, plaster shoe polish all over anywhere you don't want the epoxy to stick including the stock. By sitting the barrel up on the targets a gap is maintained removing the necessity to butcher the barrel channel.:biggrin:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
374 Posts
Warped or twisted stocks is nothing new with these guns, it's been a problem since they were introduced in 2008, long before Remington were building them.

I also would think there is something else going on with your rifle if it's shooting 12 inches from point of aim, in other words I don't think a warped stock would have that much effect. Just my opinion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,145 Posts
Call Marlin First and see what they will do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well I put the X7 up for a bit while I got married and built an AR pistol for kicks. So after free floating the barrel I finally prepared myself for a day of frustration at the range. I set my Simmons WTC scope to factory zero, set up at 25 yards, and sent my first round down range. First hit four inches low and right on center. HOT D&MN! I backed up to 50 yards moved my elevation up 6 clicks (1.5 MOA) and tried again. Second hit 2.5" low and 0.5" right. Ok, I'm still doing good. Stepped back to 100 with no adjustment and fired away. Elevation was "dead nuts" and I was about 3" right. Adjusted windage 3 MOA, shot number 4 hit 1" left of center, but I may have pulled it a touch. So two clicks right and BANG dead center bullseye! I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER!

Now the best group I pulled on factory ammo was about 2.5 MOA. I went ahead and shot up what I had on hand. Then tried some "stab in the dark" reloads I made 150gr Sierra Matchkings loaded with Reloader-15 at 36.8gr, 37.1gr, 37.4gr, 37.7gr, and 38.0gr. I got my best results (still only about 1.5 MOA) with the 38.0gr. I'm going to test from 38.3gr-39.5gr of RL-15 next. I also have some Hornady 154gr pills to try and some Sierra 140gr MKs. Aside from Varget since its impossible to find, and any I can get is dedicated to one if my ARs what powders have people tried? Also what bullet weights I'd like to make the 150s or 154s work since my 7mmRM seems to like them as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Well I put the X7 up for a bit while I got married and built an AR pistol for kicks. So after free floating the barrel I finally prepared myself for a day of frustration at the range. I set my Simmons WTC scope to factory zero, set up at 25 yards, and sent my first round down range. First hit four inches low and right on center. HOT D&MN! I backed up to 50 yards moved my elevation up 6 clicks (1.5 MOA) and tried again. Second hit 2.5" low and 0.5" right. Ok, I'm still doing good. Stepped back to 100 with no adjustment and fired away. Elevation was "dead nuts" and I was about 3" right. Adjusted windage 3 MOA, shot number 4 hit 1" left of center, but I may have pulled it a touch. So two clicks right and BANG dead center bullseye! I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER!

Now the best group I pulled on factory ammo was about 2.5 MOA. I went ahead and shot up what I had on hand. Then tried some "stab in the dark" reloads I made 150gr Sierra Matchkings loaded with Reloader-15 at 36.8gr, 37.1gr, 37.4gr, 37.7gr, and 38.0gr. I got my best results (still only about 1.5 MOA) with the 38.0gr. I'm going to test from 38.3gr-39.5gr of RL-15 next. I also have some Hornady 154gr pills to try and some Sierra 140gr MKs. Aside from Varget since its impossible to find, and any I can get is dedicated to one if my ARs what powders have people tried? Also what bullet weights I'd like to make the 150s or 154s work since my 7mmRM seems to like them as well.
I have great luck with Reloader17 with the 150gr SMK. RL17 should push those out much faster. I was sub-MOA with loads close to max. Not much data on the combo, but I worked up from about 42 grains and max would be about 47 grains.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Cool thanks I will have to acquire some RL-17 I've only got 10x, 12, 15, and AR-COMP right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Mag, Keep us posted...I have a 7mm-08 that I need to get back to. Any load development tips is always welcomed. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
It's hard for me to believe the problem is the stock also, at least not the whole problem. What is the grouping? If it groups good at 12" left it's most likely the scope is not in line with the bore. The action may not be drilled and tapped in line with the bore, in which case an adjustable mount will solve the issue. Normally if it's a stock issue the grouping walks in one direction as the barrel heats up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It was definitely the stock it's better now that I floated the barrel. Now I just gotta work up a load I'm grouping about 2.5 MOA on factory amo which is fine for a hunting rifle but I am gonna try to do better. My bbl AR just shot a .394" 5 shot group at 100 yards that's what I want for this gun too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
i don,t know if you have the heavy bll or not but if so i have a new stock i just took off of a x7vh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
No it's the stainless sporter I think I'm gonna pick up a Boyd's for it
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top