I just sold my T/C Encore and bought a decent used sidelock .50 cal T/C model unknown. It has a scope on board, and I may take it off. It has sling swivels and those will stay for sure. Would like to upgrade from a #11 to Musket caps. As I have 2-3 lbs of Pyrodex I'm in no hurry to buy any black, in my ignorance, what's the difference? I have a few sabot slugs left, but am considering buying a lee mold to pour my own bullets. Tradition? Nah, just cheap! :lol: I may try to paper patch them for better performance though!
I use goex blackpowder in both of my guns. Both are t.c. renegades 58 cal. One is a flinter and the other is a caplock. I love seeing the smoke fly and the smell. To me muzzleloading would be less with the new stuff.
After the inline nightmares I experienced with the Black Diamond I owned, I immediately went back to my T/C Renegade. I don't intend to argue good/bad for the inline/traditional shooters, but I do know my hunting tactics change with using the old percussion smokepole. I set up for shots 50 yards and less, pay more attention to details when placing my scent wafers and to this date, have never missed a shot with this rifle, when the gun fired. My problem with the renegade is on humid days, I would have to fire the gun at noon and reloaded it for the evening or risk a delayed or non-existent ignition. A hotshot nipple made this gun much more reliable, but not fool-proof. Still, the last deer I killed with a muzzleloader was taken with this "old friend" that has a permanent slot in my gun safe. I would not have a problem going back to a traditional only hunting season in Oklahoma. I would not push for it, but I certainly could live with it.
Welcome aboard Jack! You Sask. folks seem to be good people. I visited there for my Batchelor party (we went duck hunting, and sometimes got into too much Molson's XXX) near Kelvington. Almost 10 years later, and I still am awestruck by the good manners of the folks there. (And this coming from a Southern Boy, even). What kind of varmints to you shoot with your muzzleloader?
Just got two new to me sidelocks(gift from a widow cleaning out the closet). One is an Armi Sport Hawken made in Italy, with some gorgeous wood. .50 cal, of course. The other is a CVA 12 gauge dubbel burril, which I don't zacktley plan to load wif soffa pillars. :lol: Neither are going to be scoped, and I hope to take a doe or two with the 12 ga and buckshot (already checked, legal here for muzzleloader or gun season). What's the difference in black and Pyro? Is Tripple 7 any count? What is a "good" brand of black? (PS-the patterns of buck in my CVA is dissapointing, and I'd better use it at bow hunting ranges to get a clean kill).
Mommicked, Goex is a very good brand of blackpowder. Pyrodex is a replica. It takes a hotter ignition to light up pyrodex. It will go off in some sidelock guns and in some it won't. Triple seven is a replica powder too. It's easier to ignite than pyrodex, I use it some in my renegades. It is higher energy content than blackpowder so start at 50 grs. and work up. In a 50 caliber 70 grs. is about max.
I used black powder for most of my deer hunting for several seasons. It was nearly always a 50, that I used for deer and large game. I found that the round ball could shoot the length of a typical white tail and it would still run for a ways.
I got a mold (RCBS I think) for the Maxi's. They look somewhat like a semi wadcutter bullet. Remember if you cast for a muzzleloader, use pure lead, with no linotype added.
I saw some issues with poor ignition in the above posts, so I will offer the following sequence of operation as my way of doing it.
A clean firearm will have some oil in the barrel from storage. Patch it out with a jag.
Load powder, and if using round ball use a patch. The patch can be anything cotton .010-.015 thickness. No nylon blend as it will melt in your barrel. MAKE SURE THE BALL IS SEATED ON THE POWDER! Then mark you rod with a marker to ensure this in the future loadings.
If you are using a maxi ball, it will be greased with lube. Some like sabots at this point. I like pure lead.
Now this is where most folks goof up.
Upon firing, immediately pull the hammer to half cock, and take off your cap if it is still on the nipple. Use a patch that you have been chewing on, or apply a tiny bit of water. Not much. jag the barrel, to loosten up the fouling. This also pushes air out the nipple. Watch for smoke, or listen for air. Follow this with two more dry patches. Listen for air through the nipple.
Load and repeat. You can shoot all day like this and be just fine.
When I am done with the last round, I put an old sock or something over the nipple and let the hammer down. I then spray WD40 down the barrel until I can get home.
Remember that soap and hot water is the only thing that will reliably clean a muzzleloader. Store lightly oiled.
Is there any other way? As far as I'm concerned, the inline guns with sabots, jacketed bullets, scopes, pelleted powder, etc.. are just single shot centerfires. There's no more challenge to hunting with one than there is to using a Ruger No. 1, except the inlines are UGLY!
Sidelocks, real black powder, and preferably a patched round ball, though I will allow a bullet. :wink:
T/C Hawken I built from a kit in 1983 has accounted for a lot of venison and one bobcat. I also want a Lyman Great Plains rifle, flinter.
All I own is Traditional, and all I ever shoot is Round Balls and Black Powder, I have never even held a inline. I don't fault anyone who does shoot inlines, it's just not my cup of tea.....................................Marko
Sold my inline a year ago. It was nice, just not old timey enough for me. Today, I tried real black powder, not pyrodex, for the first time. I bought a can of Goex 2F a few days ago, and shot some of my home cast balls in a screaming wind. Didn't do to badly. It smells like a fish plant or ice plant with all the amonia smell that the real black powder gives off! I like it though! I'm thinking my gun likes 90 grs over 80 or 100, so I'll work from there.
My gun had some real problems, but I've worked through them. First was the gun almost always went off on the second strike. The high dollar replacement nipple was too fat, and the caps wouldn't go all the way on. I chucked the nipple threads into the drill press, cut the motor on, and went at the nipple with a file, lightly. That solved that. The lock time was very slow too, even for a side hammer. I noticed several problems. 1. the hammer was rubbing the wood over the top of the lock. 2. the lock was binding on the wood internally inside the stock. 3. The hammer was much larger and heavier than it needed to be to ignite a #11 cap. So I dremmeled away wood, till the hammer swung freely and the lock was no longer in a bind. (Can't believe the factory let her go that way, but maybe they thought she was a just a wall hanger). Then I put the hammer on a diet. Grinder wheel, belt sander, then a dremmel. Plus or minus a few country songs and a beer or two. The end result is the gun now actually SHOOTS when I pull the trigger! Amazing concept, no? And if I had just figured this out LAST spring, I wouldn't have 'clicked' that doe back in October!