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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was presented with a small challenge here ... was asked to fix a fore grip for a shotgun. Wants the grip fixed, solid for shooting - 250 to 500 rounds a year minimum - wants to be no refinish work done. No real challenge here. LOL

This may be a fun time ...

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The owner wants this "little" crack fixed and no refinish and not disturb the factory finish ... may be somewhat of a tall order.

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Luckily with this break there is some "meat" of wood in the break area. Will have a big impact on the way the repair can be made. It will have to be a strong repair with lots of support - just glue "Ain't gonna hack it" ... recoil and the pressure of the hand gripping the fore grip will be a lot strain along the break line.

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And of course the inevitable "Oh Crap". When I started close inspection this "little feller" showed up. So it has been glued up. Give it 8 or 10 clamped hours to cure out.
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Did he say how it broke in the first place? Maybe someone over tightened the takedown screw?
 

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Perhaps it was dropped at some point?
 

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I also would be interested in how it got cracked. I've had over/unders for years, with a couple of Marlin Model 90's manufactured in the early 1950's, and I've never seen that before.
 

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I had a customer who borrowed a Lefever SxS and while in his possession the forend was cracked.
Definitely from being dropped, ect. He brought gun in and didn’t want a repair, wanted new forearm .
I explained they are beyond replacement parts. He said he would get back, he did about a month later. He had lost the forearm assembly dragging it around trying to match it. I had a Lefever in used rack, same field model that had been shortened, chokes cut out. I offered it to him for $300 and said we could use just forearm or I would swap out stock for him too. He didn’t take it. Then my Gunsmith called to see if he could barrow the Lefever forend. He was hired to make a new forend metal and all. The Smith wasn’t aware of the whole story but said the project would be considerably north of $300.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I think repairs can be made on this one ... have a plan ... we will see.

1st off repaired the little "Oh Crap" that showed up.


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Align and glue up the two pieces. This is always fun. Trying to find the clamp points that force the crack closed and not an angle that forces the crack open.

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Hopefully I got all of the glue removed from the finish. It kept oozing out for a few minutes after it was all clamped. This will stay clamped for 12 hours plus. Then the fun will begin ... anchoring the repair ...
 

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Wow, Mac! I would have had absolutely no problem telling him he was asking too much and maybe he needed to look on for another "miracle worker"
 
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Looks good to me, so far..............Not an easy repair, for sure, but I'm sure the "end results" will be more than satisfactory..........I have great faith in rjtmac's talent and abilities...........

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Got the pieces lined up and glued. You never have too many clamps. It is always fun trying to glue broken fore grips - no flat areas to clamp to - have no solid middle of the grip to keep the sides from collapsing when you start the pressure on the break with the clamps - and just trying to keep the break in line and not slide as you try and apply the clamping pressure evenly up and down the break.

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Stayed clamped about 10 hours if I remember correctly. Always an anxious time ... I never know for sure about the glue and clamp jobs on thin and awkward areas until I see the result. Almost a coin flip.

The other little "Oh Crap" break healed nicely ...

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Discussion Starter #10
Turned out pretty good ... Have smooth and even crack repair - can't feel the transition from one side of the crack to the other. The joint is strong and solid. Have pressed and twisted light pressure on the joint and there is no movement along the break. Good starting point for making it solid.

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Inside surface matched goodish ...
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With trying to keep with my "Zero Footprint" Policy got it to here ...
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Now to prepare to make the break repair solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
* our wonderful new version website has somehow screwed these pictures up below. don't have time at the moment to fix the problem. will later.

Going to strap the break. Most likely going to use Wenge for the straps. Akin to Ebony and has a very low to almost none capacity for expansion and shrinkage due to moisture conditions. The straps don't need to become part of the problem.

Had to chisel out cavities that spanned the break to bind the break together with support across it from both sides.

So got that done. (I'm Chicken - I put a 3 layer tape covering over the top edges to edges to make sure I didn't damage them while working with the chisels.)

The pencil lines on the floor of the cavity represent the break line. Cavities in the front of the foregrip ...
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Cavities in the rear of the fore grip. Have made the decision to NOT use the rear cavity that is outlined here. Wood is just too thin to chance cutting the cavity into.
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Next step get the insert straps made ...
 

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I cannot view attachments but have a picture in my mind.
 

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It would be good to see what you're doing with the straps. I understand it, but can't get to the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I cannot view attachments but have a picture in my mind.
It would be good to see what you're doing with the straps. I understand it, but can't get to the pictures.
A piece of Wenge Wood will be cut for each cavity. The piece will be cut just a minuscule amount too large on all sides and it will also be cut slightly too thick. The sides will then be slightly tapered by sanding in the taper top to bottom. Assures a good tight fit. After getting the proper fit the cavity surface will have glue applied and also the bottom of the tapered strap will have glue applied. The strap will then be fitted in the cavity and clamped for 10 to 12 hours. Have to be careful with the clamping to keep the pressure uniform across the strap and the break so as to not put the break in a shearing bind. When the clamps are removed the straps will then chiseled and sanded to conform to the inside shape of the fore grip.

I have used this method a couple of projects before with very good success. Hoping this will give the needed added support to the original glue repair.
 

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This is some very fine repair work. I’m guessing that you aren’t doing this for free. I would think your work would be at least the price of replacement forearm, if not more. I know the public and gun repairs. Some people bring in a gun not worth repair cost, after repairs. You explain cost to them upfront and they go nuts when it’s done. Had people tell me to “ stick it”, call the cops, take me to court, ect. Others don’t blink an eye. If you get stuck you have to file Mechanics Lien to take possession to legally sell to recoup you bill. Any additional money is suppose to go to owner. Never have had to go to court.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is some very fine repair work. I’m guessing that you aren’t doing this for free. I would think your work would be at least the price of replacement forearm, if not more. I know the public and gun repairs. Some people bring in a gun not worth repair cost, after repairs. You explain cost to them upfront and they go nuts when it’s done. Had people tell me to “ stick it”, call the cops, take me to court, ect. Others don’t blink an eye. If you get stuck you have to file Mechanics Lien to take possession to legally sell to recoup you bill. Any additional money is suppose to go to owner. Never have had to go to court.
in the 4 years I have been doing projects for the outside world I have never had any trouble with money issues. Everything is pretty well outlined up front. I keep in constant contact with the owner on every step along the way. There are never any surprises. My quotes or estimates are always well out on the high end and very seldom get there.

In the case of this particular repair the gentlemen brought me the fore grip and asked if I thought I could fix it. Told him I thought a solid and safe repair could be made. I also told him I would estimate that purchasing a replacement would be almost if not more cost effective. That path hit a 4 foot thick titanium wall before I even got finished. Not an option. He was there because he had been told I could possibly fix it. I told him I really couldn't give him an estimate. Told him my hourly rate and said that we were looking at between 4 to 6 hours work time.

He said that would not be a problem. It was a sentimental gun - wanted the original parts to stay with the gun ... no substitutes. His only pro quo was he shoots it a lot and it needs to hold up.

Communication on these things has always been the key and getting stuff fixed right plays a little into it ... LOL Also it is clear and up front that my best effort will be made to get to the end product ... but no promises or implied successful results are guaranteed. With a large percentage of the projects I take on this is just common sense but is not left to chance. I have gotten the story many times on how attempts have been made and failed or they have been told by multiple people something cannot be repaired.

Final result on this one still has the vote out ... we will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How thick do you think the wood beneath the pocket to be?
Put a BIG √ beside the Ignorant Box for me please ... not familiar with the term "pocket" ... PLEASE enlighten me - I need my horizons expanded ....
 

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Put a BIG √ beside the Ignorant Box for me please ... not familiar with the term "pocket" ... PLEASE enlighten me - I need my horizons expanded ....
I'm wondering if he means the cavity you're cutting out to put the strap in... Just a WAG.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm wondering if he means the cavity you're cutting out to put the strap in... Just a WAG.
That would be my ASSumption also ... but my ASSumptions sometime sometimes lead to the old Cliche ...
 
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