Marlin Firearms Forum banner

Thinking about starting to reload!

3K views 54 replies 15 participants last post by  Magnum6 
#1 ·
Allright all you vicious and mean teasers :flute::flute:, i'll convert to reloading metallic ammo, but i need a little help. In the good old days i used to reload shotgun shells, but not anymore.

Last weekend my brother found out that the husbad of a friend of ours (that is in the army) reloads some ammo for his guns and how my brother also likes to shoot (but he doesn't hunt) asked me why i didn't reload for my rifles. He got me in touch with that friend of ours and i found out that the components aren't that dificult to get (at least the ones taht he uses), so all you folks, help me pic a begginers reloading kit (the tecnical and the specific matter my friend can help me, because he has several reloading data PDF's, from hornady, etc.).

He and a friend of him that i also met have the hornaddy Lock-N-Load® Classic Loader , press and dies, he has a hand primer feeder and he cleans his cases with a sonic apparel he bought for that.

They usualy buy some of the components online from egun.de, but the primers and the powders they buy locally. I don't know what kind of powder i can get, but with a light google seacrh i found several types of vectan but i think my friends can get others, at least they said that they could get at least one that can put a heavy load flying.


What do you think about the hornady press? and the dies?
What advices do i need to hear?

thank you
 
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: Magnum6
#2 ·
I would consider a Hornady kit from Midsouth. Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press Kit_


I like the RCBS kit, personal experience I've had a rockchucker since 1972 and it still works as well as the day I bought it.

Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit_

I believe either kit will serve you well. I see the Hornady requires batteries, not something I'm fond of.

Don't know what calibers you plan on reloading, nor am I experienced with Vectan powders. I would pick one that was meant for magnum pistols for lighter loads in your rifles and any magnum pistol you may have.

Then one specific for heavy loads in your rifle calibers.
 
#3 ·
sorry i forgot to mention that i want to reload the 45-70, because i don't have many choices on factory loads here, and the ones that i find are too expensive to shoot frequently!

thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: Magnum6
#4 ·
Look for bulk cast and 300gn JHP bullets for shooting. Both can be loaded light and both can be loaded stout.
 
#5 ·
I have the RCBS RockChucker Supreme kit and it works great for me. I only needed a case trimmer to round it out.
I use it to load
22 Hornet, 25-20, 22-250, 243, 30-30, 35, 30-06, 44 mag, 45-70. No problems with anything, it all works great. Just get a few loading manuals and get after it... :tee:

Good Luck
BloodGroove4570
 
#6 ·
Rock Chucker Supreme*Master Reloading Kit
I
agree, it works well for me. As of last week, there was a $50 rebate advertised. You will need to buy a brass trimmer to go with it.
I added up what I thought it was costing me to reload for 38-55 the other day. Not having to buy new brass it was $0.25 per round, buying new brass it was $0.98 per round.
Sure beats the heck out of Buffalo Bore at about $60+ per box of 20, if you can find it anywhere.
GMc
 
#7 ·
I will have to load piggynator rounds, the ones i use to shoot are too mild for big wild russians, that is the main game i hunt. i am using the winchester's 300gn jhp factory load.

I think that the 300gn jhp is more than enough to get a pig down, but i have to make it penetrate a bit more.

here in portugal it's not easy to find the kits you are talking about, but i'll try abroad.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Magnum6
#8 ·
biri,

Some good advice given above.

As per the case trimmer, I shoot way more then I trim, and right off can't remember ever trimming a straight wall handgun case. I started handloading for rifle and handgun firearms in the late 60s or very early 70s.

With bottle neck cartridges, trimming frequency will depend on the case design and the pressures your using. I'd say, that my bottle neck cases would never need trimming before at least 3 times firing.

For the straight wall handgun cases, be sure and buy a carbide size die set.

Some folk feel the need for a 4 die set where they seat and crimp the handgun bullets in two separate steps.

Well, to each his own, but a good RCBS or Hornady 3 die set, PROPERLY ADJUSTED!!!!! is all that is needed in well over 95% of the handgun cartridge loading.

If you should get roped into buying such thing as a Lee Factory Crimp Die, make sure it is the type with the adjustable collets AND NOT!!!! the kind with the carbide ring in the die!

KEEP YOUR BRASS SEGREGATED BY BRAND AND NUMBER OF TIMES FIRED!

Even better is to also segregate not only by brand and times fired but also by manufacturing lot number.

If you measure a case "X" times fired and it measures at or over the needs to be trimmed length, then trim all your brass of the same age.

BE aware that being a good handloader is a commitment of time and money. Be a good handloader or just buy your ammo.

Some folk are not geared up to put in the time and effort to properly load, develop and test quality ammunition and are just better off to never go there.

Before you go any farther, buy 2 - 3 handloading manuals such as the Speer, Hornady, Nosler books and READ!!!!!!! the front of the book in each of them.

Reading and understanding the informational portions of those manuals is more important for a new or perspective handloader, then the load data found in the later pages!

There is lots of experience represented by the posters on this and other forums, and most of us like to talk about what it is we think we know about what we think we know. :hmmmm: :biggrin:

Oh and by the way, as good and useful as a progressive loader may be, you can be a very good Handloader with out a progressive. Many folk on the forums have never owned a progressive and some like myself owned one and sold it. So, one step at a time, learn the process and make informed purchases. The best tool to make you a good handloader is between your ears.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#12 ·
biri,

Some good advice given above.

As per the case trimmer, I shoot way more then I trim, and right off can't remember ever trimming a straight wall handgun case. I started handloading for rifle and handgun firearms in the late 60s or very early 70s.

With bottle neck cartridges, trimming frequency will depend on the case design and the pressures your using. I'd say, that my bottle neck cases would never need trimming before at least 3 times firing.

For the straight wall handgun cases, be sure and buy a carbide size die set.

Some folk feel the need for a 4 die set where they seat and crimp the handgun bullets in two separate steps.

Well, to each his own, but a good RCBS or Hornady 3 die set, PROPERLY ADJUSTED!!!!! is all that is needed in well over 95% of the handgun cartridge loading.

If you should get roped into buying such thing as a Lee Factory Crimp Die, make sure it is the type with the adjustable collets AND NOT!!!! the kind with the carbide ring in the die!

KEEP YOUR BRASS SEGREGATED BY BRAND AND NUMBER OF TIMES FIRED!

Even better is to also segregate not only by brand and times fired but also by manufacturing lot number.

If you measure a case "X" times fired and it measures at or over the needs to be trimmed length, then trim all your brass of the same age.

BE aware that being a good handloader is a commitment of time and money. Be a good handloader or just buy your ammo.

Some folk are not geared up to put in the time and effort to properly load, develop and test quality ammunition and are just better off to never go there.

Before you go any farther, buy 2 - 3 handloading manuals such as the Speer, Hornady, Nosler books and READ!!!!!!! the front of the book in each of them.

Reading and understanding the informational portions of those manuals is more important for a new or perspective handloader, then the load data found in the later pages!

There is lots of experience represented by the posters on this and other forums, and most of us like to talk about what it is we think we know about what we think we know. :hmmmm: :biggrin:

Oh and by the way, as good and useful as a progressive loader may be, you can be a very good Handloader with out a progressive. Many folk on the forums have never owned a progressive and some like myself owned one and sold it. So, one step at a time, learn the process and make informed purchases. The best tool to make you a good handloader is between your ears.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
Re:..... Ouote Ol'Crusty... Before you go any farther, buy 2 - 3 handloading manuals such as the Speer, Hornady, Nosler books and READ!!!!!!! the front of the book in each of them.

I Whole Heartily Agree with Ol' Crusty on that" Another good one to learn a Wealth of information on , Esp; loading for metallic rifle cartages , is the Lyman" loading manual . Loading rifle cartages , you have LOT MORE Chamber Pressure to deal with that you do a pistol cartage , OR a Shotgun chamber.... Read those manual brother and learn , esp: about High Chamber pressure signs on a cartage , before you start ....


Magnum6
 
#9 ·
Thank you for the info, i have a progressive shell loader and i used to reload for bird hunting, this kind of reloading have been a way that i found to go clay shooting many many times. i shoot thousands of rounds every months.

Crusty - i was thinking on a simple press too, i won't reload that many rounds to justify a progressive one. I may also try to reload for my 9,3X62, but that is only a maybe and not a priority. My friend already reload for some time now and he is available to help me on that, but he doesn't reload hunting calibers, only handgun calibers and maybe he can't help me on my choice caliber.
 
#10 ·
I use a variety of equipment from All the mfg's , Hornaday , Lyman , Rcbs , Lee , Redding and Frankfort Arsenal equipment , that I've gathered up through the last 50 years . If one piece of equipment works well for me , I keep it and still use it to this day. if it didn't I trashed it , or through it in one of several boxes of old equipment storage I have , and don't use it to this day, because I've replaced it with a Different mfg's piece of equipment , or replaced it yet the 3rd. or 4 th. or 5 th. time to keep my bench updated with the latest modern equipment , that makes the job easiest for me . >>>>>>>>> Sorta like a mechanic and His Modern Tool Chest<<<<<<<<<<<

Such as digital powder throwers and scales . I've use every kind of loading press's they make , or Pretty close , and finely decided on using a single stage press . I've try them all on varies task's and decide on one , which I bought 4 of that go's across one of my reloading benches , and that happens to be the Lee Classic Cast single stage press . I use 4 separate press" as I load ammo cases , reason being , I use a separate die in each press of what ever caliber I'm loading . Some calibers I load only require the use of 2 or 3 die's and so I only use either 2 or 3 of the presses as I load for that caliber . I've tried 3 different progressive type presses and None of those worked for me.... Toooooo much play or movement in the system as you use it. I Highly recommend any new to reloading people , to use a Good Solid Strong Single Stage Reloading Press " To load your ammo .

I use Mostly All Lee die set's with the exception of 3 calibers , 357 mag. 44 mag , and 45 acp . I use Redding competition die set with micro meteor bullet seaters , mainly because I use to shoot those calibers in competition shooting , in my younger days . I use only the Lee Factory Crimp die on All calibers I load . I use RCBS" Digital 1500 scales to weigh out bullets , cases , bullets and powder , and shot for my shotgun reloading task's . I have and use Two different RCBS High $ 1500 Automatic Powder thrower I use , one for metallic loading , and the other on my shotgun bench for use in loading those shotgun ammo . (The Fastest most accurate weigh out system there is to date ) I use the RCBS ~ APS bench mounted priming system to prime all caliber cases . I use a Lyman powder case trimmer to trim all cases . I use the RCBS power prep. station to prep All cases , rifle and pistol , for New cases mainly .

I don't cast any more , but still have all of that equipment as well , It's all Lyman and Lee equipment . ..... Pictures below of the work area . Building Room Interior design Workshop
Electronics Room Furniture Desk Table
Product Room Building Furniture Grocery store
Machine Flooring
Font Wood Text Wood stain Signage
The Cave.... No Girl aloud :biggrin:.... Magnum 6
 
#11 ·
WOW magnum!! i think that cave is incredible!!
Now i have something to dream with! eheh (only to dream):vollkommenauf:.

I can go with one kit, not more, so i need one that really works, even if i have to spend a litle more money.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Magnum6
#13 ·
Well brother , that' an accumulation of about 50 year of gear , not all at once , but you can get yourself a Good set of equipment for as little as about $130 buck's or so , good enough to get yourself in the game , then as you would like , you can add all the automatic fancy gear latter as you'd like or as deep as you want to get into it all . But Brother Please Make sure you Read at least one of those loading manuals from the Front To the back last page , and understand what it's telling you . Cause if you load Rifle ammo with too high of pressure , It Will" Destroy your gun and more than likely Hurt you real Bad , on Worse" Believe me my friend , I Have Seen it happen More the 5 time's in the last 50 years .... 4 of those were New Re loader people , that didn't read there books .... good luck , and All way's Be Safe with you new project .... I've also seen 2 hand gun come apart in two different fellow's hands and made them all bloody !


Magnum6
 
#14 ·
Hey B,

Welcome to the world of reloading.

It is my understanding, that reloading supplies are a bit more of a challenge to obtain, in Europe.

A couple of "brand" names to help: RCBS, H'Day, Lyman, Lee, Dillon, Redding, CH4D, Brownell's, MidWayUSA...........

A good "O" frame press, from one of the above makers, will last you several lifetimes. LOL

A good "balance" beam scale, case trimmer, powder measure and "dribbler/trickler". A couple of loading blocks, and several Manuals, and away you go.

Take a look at this thread, many members have put up pics of their "solutions".......to the reloading "problem". LOL http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/reloading/43570-show-off-those-reloading-benches-33.html

For cast bullets in the 45/70, save yourself a whole lot of trouble, and try to obtain the RCBS Cowboy Dies.

Later, Mark
 
#15 ·
i'm looking at this one LEE Breech Lock Reloading Press Complete Kit 90030 new ! on ebay, or this one RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Reloading Press but i think i'll go with the kit, because i'll only need the dies to get started.
what do you think??

I won't start reloading by myself and without getting ready by reading and get well informed on what i'm doing, i shoot for many years now, and i've seen some bad adventures myself, with destroyed guns and guns that came apart (my grandfather had some 20gauge shootgun shells reloaded at a gun store, many years ago and the reloader made the powder charge of the 12gauge on the 20gauge sheel, so when my grandfather started shooting them, the gun simply came apart, lucky that he didn't hurt himself) and some other stories that taught me no to play around with guns.

Thanks for your advices and concerns.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Magnum6
#16 ·
biri,

Some Lee products are junk right from the time they left the drawing board, so buy carefully and wisely! Some of their products are good and some just so so and then comes the junk.

The equipment I have bought that was quality to start with has lasted me for years. And yes I have bought some of the junk and got exactly what I paid for. JUNK at any price!

If you are planning on loading any bottle neck (typically rifle) cartridges, send me a "P.M." with your personal "E" address and I'll send you a document that will help you get started and some tips that many manufactures don't tell you.

Hang in there and keep us posted on your progress.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#18 ·
I like the Lee Breech Lock kit... Its what I got when I first started and I still use it. Now I have the Breech Lock hand press as well so I can reload at the range if I need to.

No matter what kit you get... get a Lyman "M" die for the 45-70...

Doc
 
#20 ·
Ahem.

I have the Hornady three die set. There is absolutely no need to get the "M" die as it does not do anything the Hornady blind expander does not do. The M die is not "special" for cast bullets. It is intended for cast AND jacketed bullets, just like the Hornady expander die is.

CDOC, you're missing nothing. If it is suggested otherwise here we're going to have a needed discussion about the M die.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Well I have the Lee dies and the M die is essential to loading the big .460 - .461 boolits in the case. The expander in the lee set just doesnt do it for me where the "M" die does.

Crusty, it does nothing for groups, just helps me with opening the mouth of the case so that the boolits dont crush the top of the case.

35 Remington, I will have a discussion any time you want about my use of the Lyman M die!
Here is a .459 boolit I tried to load in a Starline case without using the M die.
Ammunition Bullet Brass Gun accessory Metal



Doc
 
#22 ·
Thanks guys!

I use the Hornady 3 die set for my 465gr Wide Flat Nose cast in the 45/70. The bullet is sized .460 and the brass is starline. Every thing is working fine with the Hornady dies.

I do have "M" dies for .30 caliber cast bullet use, but those 2 die sets do not flair the case mouth like the 3 die sets do.

Thanks. I'm old but hope not too old to still learn a bit.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#23 ·
Let's have that discussion.

It is commonly and erroneously repeated that the M die does something "special" for cast bullets in terms of preparing the case neck inside diameter. It does not, in that it does not "specially" size the case neck compared to the Hornady expander CDOC mentioned. Both are intended for JACKETED bullets, and size the case so a .458" diameter jacketed bullet is gripped correctly. When speaking of .461" bullets, the neck tension is "tighter" than needed, and the M die does nothing.......repeat, nothing the Hornady expander does not do. If the bullet is soft and oversize, both may swage the bullet to some degree since they are intended for jacketed bullets. Harder bullets may avoid the effect, as will gaschecked bullets. Both are intended for jacketed bullets, but may be adapted to cast bullets due to another feature.

What both the Hornady and M die do is flare the case neck to accept the cast bullet heel without shaving, but the M die doesn't do it any better than the Hornady die does, as it flares the case neck as well.

Some also erroneously proselytize for the M die in that the step allows "straighter" bullet seating, but this is also a misconception. The same straight alignment to start can be had by simply giving the nose of the bullet a gentle tap against the seating stem before giving it the full seating stroke (withdraw the case after gently tapping it and before fully seating the bullet and you will see the bullet is aligned with the case using this simple expedient). Truly straight bullet seating is not had due to the M die's influence when the heel of the bullet is merely 1/16th inch in the case neck, because the seating die is responsible for guiding the bullet the rest of the way. So the seating die's alignment with the shellholder and cartridge/bullet and the fit of the seating stem to the bullet's nose is responsible for straight bullet seating more than the illusory claims for the "step" in the M die.

I do not have a Lee expander for 45-70, but I am aware they are on a continuous taper that gets larger as it goes up. So, make sure the flare is adequate before seating the bullet, Doc, and likely your problems will go away. Check to see the heel of the bullet can be fully admitted into the case, trying it by hand, before putting it in the seating die.

Doc, measure the diameter of the Lee die's plug at the bottom and top and report on this thread what they are.

All....and I mean all....three die sets for straight cases from all manufacturers have some means to flare the case neck, and this isn't exclusive to the M die. Witness RCBS, Redding, Lee, and other brands of pistol and straight case rifle dies. All will accept cast bullets. I seem to be loading 45 ACP's and 32 Smith and Wesson Longs and 38's in these other brands with cast bullets just fine, and there isn't an M die in sight, nor is there a need for one.

In any event, CDOC specifically asked about the advantages of the M die over his Hornady expander. There aren't any. Zilch.

Incidentally, when speaking of bottleneck cases, far better results may be had in terms of fitting oversized cast bullet diameters if the Lee Collet Neck Die is used. This allows adjustable neck inside diameter to fit oversized cast bullets to allow gripping them without any possible swaging down of diameter in a neck sized for jacketed bullets.
 
#24 ·
Ok, Lets... I tried for a couple months to get my lee expanding die to work (should be easy right?) Put the shell into the die, screw it down until you feel it hit the top of the case, lower the case and screw it down a little at a time while raising the case to flair.... Well I kept cranking on the darn thing and it wasnt doing anything to flair the case to fit the base of even the .459's just as I got to the bottom of the threads it went from no flair to \ / and now wouldnt fit into my seating die... I gave up, purchased the M die and within seconds I was loading ammo.. The Lee die went sailing into the waste basket at that time.

I never once said that the M die does anything special compaired to the Hornady since I dont own one, If I would have gotten that set then maybe, just maybe I wouldnt have gotten the Lyman die.

Doc
 
#25 ·
Man! I think we're getting a new reloader prospect every day now. Was it something we said?:hmmmm:
Anyway, it's a great new way to enjoy your firearms. But watch it, it can become an obsession real quick.
 
#26 ·
Doc, as you have likely read in my posts, I am a very selective and picky buyer of Lee products.

I looked at the Lee neck expander on the net awhile back, and I can see why you never had any positive results.

The last thing I'd want is some long tapered neck expansion. I couldn't see how that die could possibly prove usable.

Maybe it's sale is a good move on their part to sell more collet type crimpers.?.?.?.. :hmmmm:

Thanks for the report on your results!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#28 ·
Crusty, when I started reloading I bought the Lee dies because it was what my father in law had at the time so without checking on other die sets I purchased the lee dies for every rifle and pistol I had... probably not the smartest thing to do.

I probably got a defective expanding die and was so PO'd at the thing I almost took shots at it.. all of my other Lee dies work perfectly and I had no issues setting them up to expand, seat and crimp. So maybe if I had gotten a good one or bought the hornady's or some other dies I wouldnt have got the Lyman but it was been with me since I started loading for the 45-70 and it will stay with me

Doc
 
#27 · (Edited)
Those measurements I asked for are now impossible to obtain if you trashed the die. Oh well. I seem to do fine with mine using straight cases, having just recently used the Lee system for 32 Long. If it was impossible I could not get it to work as I am not some wonder guy with die adjustment. I'm just an ordinary schmoe.

You indeed would not need the M die if you had the Hornady set, and the recommendation of the purchase of the M die for those that already have one of the other brands of 45-70 dies or are contemplating purchasing them as part of a reloading kit (press, measure, etc.) is not needed as the other brands flare case mouths as well.

It appears to be a matter of adjustment in not getting the results from the Lee.....since the taper is gradual, it should not suddenly go from no flare to an extreme belling of the case mouth. Mine doesn't.
 
#29 ·
The Nice thing about the Lyman "M" Die is that you Can Buy Custom Diameter Expander Plugs.
I Got Lucky & Found a Guy that Machines them Himself on ebay.
A Good Machinist Should be Able to Make one Up to Whatever Diameter you Need for Any Boolit Size.
IIRC you Can Even Find them in Carbide or Titanium Nitrided.
IMHO I Believe that the "M" Die Helps the Brass to Last Longer by Not Over Working the Neck.
Personally I Really Like Using the "M" Die & Prefer It Over the Others.
UncleSarge58
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top