Joined
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4,559 Posts
biri,
Some good advice given above.
As per the case trimmer, I shoot way more then I trim, and right off can't remember ever trimming a straight wall handgun case. I started handloading for rifle and handgun firearms in the late 60s or very early 70s.
With bottle neck cartridges, trimming frequency will depend on the case design and the pressures your using. I'd say, that my bottle neck cases would never need trimming before at least 3 times firing.
For the straight wall handgun cases, be sure and buy a carbide size die set.
Some folk feel the need for a 4 die set where they seat and crimp the handgun bullets in two separate steps.
Well, to each his own, but a good RCBS or Hornady 3 die set, PROPERLY ADJUSTED!!!!! is all that is needed in well over 95% of the handgun cartridge loading.
If you should get roped into buying such thing as a Lee Factory Crimp Die, make sure it is the type with the adjustable collets AND NOT!!!! the kind with the carbide ring in the die!
KEEP YOUR BRASS SEGREGATED BY BRAND AND NUMBER OF TIMES FIRED!
Even better is to also segregate not only by brand and times fired but also by manufacturing lot number.
If you measure a case "X" times fired and it measures at or over the needs to be trimmed length, then trim all your brass of the same age.
BE aware that being a good handloader is a commitment of time and money. Be a good handloader or just buy your ammo.
Some folk are not geared up to put in the time and effort to properly load, develop and test quality ammunition and are just better off to never go there.
Before you go any farther, buy 2 - 3 handloading manuals such as the Speer, Hornady, Nosler books and READ!!!!!!! the front of the book in each of them.
Reading and understanding the informational portions of those manuals is more important for a new or perspective handloader, then the load data found in the later pages!
There is lots of experience represented by the posters on this and other forums, and most of us like to talk about what it is we think we know about what we think we know. :hmmmm: :biggrin:
Oh and by the way, as good and useful as a progressive loader may be, you can be a very good Handloader with out a progressive. Many folk on the forums have never owned a progressive and some like myself owned one and sold it. So, one step at a time, learn the process and make informed purchases. The best tool to make you a good handloader is between your ears.
Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
Some good advice given above.
As per the case trimmer, I shoot way more then I trim, and right off can't remember ever trimming a straight wall handgun case. I started handloading for rifle and handgun firearms in the late 60s or very early 70s.
With bottle neck cartridges, trimming frequency will depend on the case design and the pressures your using. I'd say, that my bottle neck cases would never need trimming before at least 3 times firing.
For the straight wall handgun cases, be sure and buy a carbide size die set.
Some folk feel the need for a 4 die set where they seat and crimp the handgun bullets in two separate steps.
Well, to each his own, but a good RCBS or Hornady 3 die set, PROPERLY ADJUSTED!!!!! is all that is needed in well over 95% of the handgun cartridge loading.
If you should get roped into buying such thing as a Lee Factory Crimp Die, make sure it is the type with the adjustable collets AND NOT!!!! the kind with the carbide ring in the die!
KEEP YOUR BRASS SEGREGATED BY BRAND AND NUMBER OF TIMES FIRED!
Even better is to also segregate not only by brand and times fired but also by manufacturing lot number.
If you measure a case "X" times fired and it measures at or over the needs to be trimmed length, then trim all your brass of the same age.
BE aware that being a good handloader is a commitment of time and money. Be a good handloader or just buy your ammo.
Some folk are not geared up to put in the time and effort to properly load, develop and test quality ammunition and are just better off to never go there.
Before you go any farther, buy 2 - 3 handloading manuals such as the Speer, Hornady, Nosler books and READ!!!!!!! the front of the book in each of them.
Reading and understanding the informational portions of those manuals is more important for a new or perspective handloader, then the load data found in the later pages!
There is lots of experience represented by the posters on this and other forums, and most of us like to talk about what it is we think we know about what we think we know. :hmmmm: :biggrin:
Oh and by the way, as good and useful as a progressive loader may be, you can be a very good Handloader with out a progressive. Many folk on the forums have never owned a progressive and some like myself owned one and sold it. So, one step at a time, learn the process and make informed purchases. The best tool to make you a good handloader is between your ears.
Crusty Deary Ol'Coot