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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I asked where to get an entire front sight assembly on this forum for a 1971 Marlin 336. I had bought it and it came with no front sight and the plug screws in the holes.

Well after getting down to it, I realized one of the screws was completely stripped. After attempting different methods to remove the stripped screw (which aren't many, as its a 1/8" wide by 1/8" long screw) I realized I had to drilled out a 1/8" hole and tap new threads.

I had never completely something like this before. I've attempted similar projects...but all have been a complete disaster and I've ultimately ruined whatever I was working on. Did I mention the vice I was using to hold my rifle was my wife sitting on a toilet, and I was using a 1 speed 10 year old drill to drill the 1/8" hole? Probably the reason I ruined all my previous projects... 8)

I'm in the middle of moving so all my stuff is packed up, but I couldn't let a Marlin rifle be incomplete! It just didn't feel right.

Anyway, I did it, check it out.



The issue I can potentially see is that I filed the front sight blade a little too much to get it in the dovetail and its a bit loose. Takes more than a little tap, but not what it should be. It may shift under firing. I will shoot it and see before I buy a new one.

All I need are the plug screws for the receiver and it will be perfect.
 

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You might want to let your wife finish in the bathroom first before having her help. Eager much are we? ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought this was the only place in the world I could be around other people who would understand that sometimes its necessary to get the wife on the toilet in order to fix your Marlin. Guess I was wrong. :D

I actually chose the bathroom because it had the best lighting, a tile floor (so I wouldn't loose anything if I dropped it) and a nice area to rest the rifle.
 

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You can take a punch and put a couple of dimples in the dovetail and they will hold that sight just fine.
 

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I don't know if it's cooler that you got your Marlin back in action, or that your wife HELPED you take time out of moving to fix your Marlin! Congrats on the repair and the cool wife! 8)
 

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Good job but not done yet. Looks like you need a round-top front sight hood on there for a '71 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
LDThornton, got any idea where to get one of those? This is one of those "widescan" hoods I believe.

VTDW, I hadnt even thought of that. Assuming it holds while firing enough to zero I will definitely do that.
 

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Mutt said:
An old drink can makes good shims for those type jobs.
Funny you should mention that Mutt because I just pulled my 336 T down to do some repair and took the sight off and found a perfectly cut ¼ inch aluminum shim under the dove tail to keep it tight. Looks like it was done at the factory. Makes no difference because it has worked for years that way and was tight. After seeing this if I had one that was loose that would appear be the best fix.
 

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"cut ¼ inch aluminum shim under the dove tail to keep it tight. Looks like it was done at the factory."

Was it a Budweiser?

Using a sharp prick punch to do what VTDW suggested is called staking. I've done it on many iron sights to make sure they did not move after the zero. One good on in the top of the dovetail so it hits the sight also, is usually enough.
 

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swany said:
Was it a Budweiser?

Using a sharp prick punch to do what VTDW suggested is called staking. I've done it on many iron sights to make sure they did not move after the zero. One good on in the top of the dovetail so it hits the sight also, is usually enough.
Couldn't tell if it was Bud or Coors. ;) ;D

Swany I will try staking it when I put it back on.
 

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Eurodriver,

Not sure how it was meant by VTDW about using the punch but I've seen people take a punch to the outside part of the barrel and it leaves a visible mark. The better way is to punch the flat bottom of the sight in 2 or 3 places and it will raise a ring around the divot and make the sight fit tighter without anything being visible after it is installed. You could do it in the bottom of the cutout on the barrel but I'd be just a bit concerned about causing a tight spot in the barrel. It's not uncommon to have a tight spot in the barrel where it's been roll stamped or where the dovetail was cut so it's not impossible.

Imagine the below is a side view of your sight. (Ignore the dots, they're just place holders so the pic doesn't go all goofy when I hit enter...(I hope) The two little vertical arrows show about where to peen it. Good thing is if you overdo it and it's too tight, a stroke or two with a file will knock it down a bit. You could even take the bump completely off but you'd still have a tiny divot.

..................._______...................
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....................l........l....................
 

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Dave Bulla said:
Not sure how it was meant by VTDW about using the punch but I've seen people take a punch to the outside part of the barrel and it leaves a visible mark. The better way is to punch the flat bottom of the sight in 2 or 3 places and it will raise a ring around the divot and make the sight fit tighter without anything being visible after it is installed.
I like the idea of no visible marks on the rifle from work done. I think that is the reason they used an aluminum shim under the sight on my rifle. No tell-tell marks left outside to be seen. I like your idea Dave.
 

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eurodriver said:
...Did I mention the vice I was using to hold my rifle was my wife sitting on a toilet, and I was using a 1 speed 10 year old drill to drill the 1/8" hole? Anyway, I did it...
Excellent! Isn't it a great feeling of accomplisment?

I guess the only thing left to do is the paperwork. ;) ;D

Roe
 

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After attempting different methods to remove the stripped screw (which aren't many, as its a 1/8" wide by 1/8" long screw) I realized I had to drilled out a 1/8" hole and tap new threads.

One trick that sometimes works (and lets you use the old threads instead of retapping to a larger diameter) is to drill with a left hand drill just smaller than the minor diameter. Usually at some point the old screw comes out, but if not, you can use dental pick to pick out the left over thread fragments. YMMV, of course, and well done!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the help guys. I shot her for the first time today (I own 18 rifles and 4 handguns and I have never referred to a rifle as "her" before...it just felt right)

She functioned fine, and the sight didn't move that I could tell and was pretty well zero'd. The range was full and I could only get to the 25 yard lane however so shooting it at a distance will still be a few weeks out. I appreciate all the help getting the sight held on tight. If it moves I will use one of the many methods here.

My only issue I had is that twice when loading the first round I would get a jam. I think what caused it is if I "short-stroked" the lever, and attempted to close the lever before it was open all the way. It would just get completely stuck, the lever wouldn't budge, and I needed to use a screwdriver to pull the round out of the mag tube and into the feed "ramp". (I'm not familiar with Marlin terms, bear with me)

Ever heard of that? I never had a jam when being forceful with the action and it was on the very first round both times. I'm thinking it was either me not cycling the action correctly/all the way or the round wasn't shoved entirely in the magazine tube (because it was only on the first round).

I wish I had a snap cap, I would try to duplicate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I found the issue, the round wasn't fully seated in the mag tube. Last night I loaded some rounds and tried fiddling with the lever but couldn't replicate the problem. It loaded into the chamber every time
 
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