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Discussion Starter #21
I'm glad I'm helping out and passing on some of the things I've learned to do since getting the Marlinitus Virus.
 

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Swany, thanks for MO good info! I've enjoyed using your excellent tutorials to detail strip my 1894...getting everything good and clean, but I'm the 3rd owner, and it appears the first one lost the roll pin holding the extractor in...and replaced it with some evil bit of steel. To further bedevil me it is lightly staked in and had begun to rust at some point in the past. I've had it soaking for 4 days, warmed it under a heat lamp, clamped it down and it will not budge. I used firm controlled taps until, at last, I bent a new Stanley 1/16" pin punch! Unless you have some special machinist phrases I haven't used on it, am I gonna have to drill that sucker out? It's personal now.:biggrin: thanks, RB
 

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Swany.
Thinks on the trigger job. Wish I had seen it before I had my 39D trigger worked on. Same smith got my 39A down to 2 lbs a few years ago. last time on the 39D he said it was 2.5 lbs. Closer to 4 lbs by my RCBS fish scale. Just finished it myself and it's 40 or 42 oz. Thanks for sharing it. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm grateful I have the means to help Marlin Owners membership and beyond.
 

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Swany,
I was not sure what you meant by" tilt stone slightly so I placedthe Sear in small vice. Rotated the Sear to get the included angle was .005 higherthan the other end. Then
place parallels on either side of the Sear so I could stone down to the parallels.I could believe the difference in how much the trigger pull was reduced.
Thanks for your Time and Help.
Rex McKinney-REM
 

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Ah a learned Grasshopper. ;) You have the knowledge and the tools that helps a lot. Me being a tool and die maker it came fairly easy, I wrote that up for the the masses without the Journeymans background. Many of my write ups I could do with precision tools and setups, I have in my shop but then not all Marlin Owners members have that.
 

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I have the two piece triggers, so it was difficult to hold that tiny upper part of the trigger at the same angle. I picked up a 1983 336 three days ago and decided to do a trigger job. I held the face of the sear against a straight edge and clamped it into a vice grip at a slight angle. Then I held the vice grip parallel to the stone and took a few strokes and checked the face and took two more strokes. And that did it. A nice flat surface. Put the gun back together and now the trigger breaks at 3.3 lbs.
 

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Swany,
Thanks for your insight on the Marlin triggers. I took your advice and worked on the spring and really looked at the trigger and hammer closely. I thought the trigger and hammer were very smooth and did not need attention at this time. After the spring bend it is a very nice trigger on my .357 model 1984. It is a 1979. Thanks again, you guys make this Marlin thing a lot of fun.
 

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Hi Swany, thanks form some great info. I have a 1949 336A 30-30 and the trigger is great for a hunting rifle. Last week I picked up a 1974 336c in 35 rem. trigger was I little heavy. So before getting a happy trigger I decided to bend the spring a little. Now the trigger is better but know it has a lot of side to side play. Like it lose. I don't have a weight gauge but could I have bent it to much ?
 

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Swaney: I was in the process of ordering a WW trigger but EagleH talked me into trying your tutorial..You just saved me $90.
I had to struggle with aligning the trigger/hammer screw and reassembliing the spring on the hammer strut, but the rest of the job was "duck soup".
Trigger pull now measures 3-1/2 lbs. on my fish scale. I don't want it any lighter on a hunting rifle..I now have a "custom" 336W.
Many thanks!:congrats:

Bad Bob
 

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I originally posted my trigger polishing job on the .45-70 forum:
decent trigger pull now
As typical of lever actions, my 1895GBL trigger was a little rough, with a slight "catch" or "notch" in its travel, and heavy of course. I don't want the trigger to be "sharp as glass" or any such, because it has to be safe from bumping, etc. I used the Buck honing stones (Wa****a and Arkansas) for much of the action work, but just the fine Arkansas stone and 800 and 1000 grit paper on the sear and hammer notch. I made sure the angles didn't change; the idea is that the sear has to go uphill as it disengages from the hammer. If it is sliding level, or worse downslope, you will have an unsafe trigger. I don't like to bend the spring as that creates stress risers and it is also hard to predict the effects, both short- and long-term. You can decrease the depth of the notch in the hammer somewhat, say 30%, if you leave the edge sharp and the angle the same. The easy way for me was to watch the angle carefully while drawing the hammer across a diamond knife sharpening flat stone. then polish with the Arkansas stone and work to 1000 grit aluminum oxide paper. That will reduce creep, and weight of pull some, as the hammer does not have to be pulled back so far by the trigger as the sear runs "uphill." Look at the parts and you will see that a big reason for weight of trigger pull is that the trigger is pulling the hammer back farther. Just don't overdo it and make the notch too shallow. Better to r&r the hammer a few times than to cut too much and make the notch unreliable at all. I made a trigger pull gauge from stiff wire and pieces of steel, including small washers that I weighed on a precision balance. The trigger now is smooth, has minimal creep, and has a 4.14 pound pull.

The above procedures are my opinion, and not intended to advise you. Do what you are comfortable with.​
 

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I believe that removing metal (up to 30%) from the notch in the hammer is a risky proposition and can lead to an unsafe firearm. I see nothing wrong with changing the angle of the sear as in Swaney's tutorial. If you look closely at the pictures of a Wild West trigger kit, that is exactly what their sear profile seems to indicate along with a closer fit between the sear and trigger.

BB
 

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If done carefully, all that is done by making the notch shallower is reduction in "creep" or trigger travel. Look at a bolt action trigger for comparison. I consider it much more risky to change the angles.
 

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Swany, thank you. My first 39a and the trigger was like dragging a cinder block with your pinky! I used your excellent instructions and have a very nice 4 lb trigger. Many thanks for sharing.
 

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Thanks for the lesson. My 336RC had a pull of 7.2 pounds. Bent the spring just a little as you showed and it dropped to a 5.3 pound pull. Did the honing (might have done a little more but wasn't comfortable) and it took it to 4.6 pounds. I'm gonna go ahead and leave it like that. Again, thanks for posting these helpful tips and lessons.
 

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Does anyone have a picture of what a good trigger sear for a JC Higgins model 103.18 (Marlin 100) is supposed to look like? Mine is all worn down (maybe filed?) and is causing problems when I cycle the bolt back and forth. Here's a picture:


image1.JPG image5.JPG
I don't think that notch is supposed to be there (or be so big), nor am I sure about that angled area. Any suggestions?
 

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Okay the trigger spring is bent and rebent so far so good here is the trigger removed and laying on a India Oilstone medium grit. Added is the triggers top with permanent marker blackening it for stoning proof. Pic is blurry but trust it is what I said.
Edit: nevermind, trigger pin fell right out, literally turned on the side and the thing fell easily out. I wonder if that indicates I should get a new pin?
 

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Okay the trigger spring is bent and rebent so far so good here is the trigger removed and laying on a India Oilstone medium grit. Added is the triggers top with permanent marker blackening it for stoning proof. Pic is blurry but trust it is what I said.
Guys, for cutlery sharpening, I use a two-sided water stone, a Shapton Pro Series 1000-grit, two-sided stone. This is a coarse/medium stone. Would the finer side suffice, here? Or should I be more cautious and go finer, even substantially finer?
 
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