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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to all,

Spring is here and I'm now getting ready for what will hopefully be a summer full of pistol and rifle target practice and matches and would appreciate your opinions. My local community college has agreed to cut me some metal targets if I provide the materials and I'm wondering what sizes to make for my 336 in .30-30.

I'll be putting the 336 through its paces at 100-200 yards with iron sights and am wondering what size steel plates I should make that will be challenging but realistic. What do you recommend as far as thickness, shape and size for this purpose?
 

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You need abrasion resistant steel . Maybe 400 but grade 500 best. You can Google the topic for thicknesses. If using standard A 37 steel you have to go very thick or shoot at long range only
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have your own range where you can leave the targets set up? If not I would opt for the smallest targets to minimize weight to/from your vehicle.
I have access to a range but have set up targets each time I shoot so yes, portability is definitely a factor for me.
 

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Besides the above in best material to use, I'll throw out there 'just in case' to be cautious in how you mount them too; don't want stuff bouncing back and/or out and about so to say. Good luck to you...
 
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I agree with all above, you really want AR500 and 8" x 3/8".... half inch would be even better.. will last you forever with a 30-30... I hit that size with a 50 Beowolf, 458Socom, and truckloads of .223, 45 70's, 44Mags, 45acp and everything in between, all the time. it just laughs at those calibers.. at ANY distance.. I have a few plates here that have seen literally 10's of thousands of impacts of practically every common caliber out there and you can barely see the marks.

If youre just looking for a small plate to use for accuracy verification with the 30-30 at 100 yards, I would say you can get away with a good, regular steel plate. the thicker the better, like 1/2 inch or more.. 8" plate that thickness will not be that heavy.. cast loads would be ideal for it to last a long time. If youre planning on using it for a target with lots of other calibers and at closer ranges, it will last a bit, but it will get torn up-warped and mangled and cratered very quickly.. I would recommend just going directly with the AR500 and be done with it, the right way..

If you do go with AR 500, remember, its pretty much water jet cutting only.. you cannot drill or bandsaw that stuff.. and if you hit it with a torch, you'll take out the temper and it will no longer be "armor plate" unless you have the ability to re heat treat it to proper spec again.. around here, I have 8" 10" and 12" plates depending on the agenda for the day.. Aim small, Hit small.. generally the 12" plates are for the precision rifles for anything out past 400 yards...
 
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How good is your eyesight? Cut out paper or cardboard red and black circles of various sizes to determine if you can see them at 100 and 200 yards with iron sights.
 
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The much mangled is a cast target I used for my 250 gn 38-55 at 1100 fps.

The others hung from ready rod and washers welded to the bar to keep the targets centered. They simply are pushed into the ground. Around 18 inches in the ground keeps them from uprooting.

The small is a two inch. I use this most often for 65 yd offhand practice with my peep sighted 39A.

The next is for up to 100 yds, depending on your skill level.

The 8inch diamond shape I use up to 100 for my .22 most often.
 

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We do 8" and 10" at 100yds and 12" & 16" at 200yds for off hand rifle. We have assortment of odd sizes that were cut from scraps
avaible. We tack weld chain to hang them buy, free swinging they will take a lot more hits than mounted solid. I don't know what
the name of steel is. It is a hardened steel used for surfaces on mining machinery. There is a guy down here that makes axes and
Tomahawks out of same steel. I did have everyone I know saving circular saw blades from 3" on up to 12". Mounted loose on spike
with a big washer they make good 22 gongs. Any thing bigger will make short work of them.
 

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I made a 1.5 X 5 X 7 for my gun club. It held up to the FMJ Sks shooters well. But they shot the chains off several times. Several members have welders so it's fixed fast.

I find most 30-30s even with jacketed loads will not kill a 1/2 inch mild steel target very fast. Where a milsurp with FMJ will often punch a hole in 1/2 inch.

For a long lasting durable target that is easy to make and cheap, nothing beats a section of car tire tread or sidewall. Holes seem to almost close back up.

They dance when you hit them.
 

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I never though of using for target but I have a bullet trap that I have 4 pieces of heavy industrial conveyor belting hund from. The
top screws to wooden dowels (aka Broom Stick) I staple targets to the belt and shoot 36" in my basement into garage. Outside box
is just 3/16 common sheet. Like a tire it seals up. The only way to chew a hole in it is to sit and shoot 50shot group with solids. No
type of 22 ever made it through 4th layer. I have shoot 32S&W, 38S&W, and Lite 38sp WC in it too, but just to test a gun. If you live
In area where there is mines or mills you can usually bum a piece of used belt, a lot of guys use it for Bed Liner in their trucks. What
I have is about 3/4" thick.
 
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Here is a target stand that I made. The legs are 11/4 inch pipe and the cross bar is 3/8 rebar formed into a "U" shape that slides down into the pipe, making it free standing. Then any plate can be hung by chain from the cross bar. The plate on it is a 20 x 30 inch used for 600 to 800 yard shooting. However, any size plate can be hung on the cross bar. Cast bullets splatter like water on the steel plate so bullet deflection is not an issue.

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Here are a few hits at 600 yards to show how the cast bullet splatters.
 
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