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I've done successful chamber polishing a worn out chamber brush by wrapping a layer of green Scotch patch on it. Chuck it up in a hand drill and a few seconds make it like new. AC
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I've done successful chamber polishing a worn out chamber brush by wrapping a layer of green Scotch patch on it. Chuck it up in a hand drill and a few seconds make it like new. AC
Thanks for the tip. I still haven't checked my chamber, and while I realised there could be some issues with tooling marks, even roughness, I would hate to think a new rifle would be rough. I have no issues with other projectiles, only the FTX
 

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I'll add that 30C is 86F, that's HOT temps by US standards. Most hunting is done on this continent in cooler conditions.
In sunlight at those temps, the loaded round could ez be hitting closer to 40C or close to a 100F.
Couple that with shorter COAL, a rough chamber and possibly soft brass and it all adds up to an over pressure
situation. Definitely polish the chamber, a production firearm and freshly tooled chamber could easily be a
touch rough. And BACK OFF the powder charge.
My $.02
 

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Would stick in three different Marlins.
Tried different components, same.
Different powder, same.
Backed loads off to minimum, same.
This was new brass. Went back to Rem, federal and Winchester brass previously reload a few times and all was well.
Crushed 20 once fired and 80 pieces of new PPU brass.
Will not buy again.
 

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You keep talking about trim length but I don't think that is the issue since they cycle fine. I'd suspect your overall length first and very possibly high pressure due to the bullet seating into the lands.

Aside from that, next likely place to look may be brass thickness at the neck. If you have a somewhat tight chamber OR the brass you are loading is thicker than it should be (or both) you may not have sufficient space for a for proper release of the bullet and that can cause a pretty dramatic increase in pressures. I suggest trying to measure wall thickness of unloaded cases and compare to known good brands thickness. If you can't get a good reading of the wall, you can measure after loading by measuring the outside diameter. Be sure to measure multiple places going around the neck because very often a thick wall issue is not something that goes all the way around. Might just be thick on one side. If you find this is the issue, case necks can be turned either outside or inside depending on the tool used and the problem should go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Would stick in three different Marlins.
Tried different components, same.
Different powder, same.
Backed loads off to minimum, same.
This was new brass. Went back to Rem, federal and Winchester brass previously reload a few times and all was well.
Crushed 20 once fired and 80 pieces of new PPU brass.
Will not buy again.
Interesting. I'm not having any issues when I load 150gn RN's only these FTX's. I do have a mate who an issue with PPU neck size being too small from one batch, so coupled with your experience it looks like quality control is poor. Thanks for the insight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You keep talking about trim length but I don't think that is the issue since they cycle fine. I'd suspect your overall length first and very possibly high pressure due to the bullet seating into the lands.

Aside from that, next likely place to look may be brass thickness at the neck. If you have a somewhat tight chamber OR the brass you are loading is thicker than it should be (or both) you may not have sufficient space for a for proper release of the bullet and that can cause a pretty dramatic increase in pressures. I suggest trying to measure wall thickness of unloaded cases and compare to known good brands thickness. If you can't get a good reading of the wall, you can measure after loading by measuring the outside diameter. Be sure to measure multiple places going around the neck because very often a thick wall issue is not something that goes all the way around. Might just be thick on one side. If you find this is the issue, case necks can be turned either outside or inside depending on the tool used and the problem should go away.
Yes you are correct re Trim length. I should be talking COAL. I realised thanks to @crzy_horse that the FTX has a slightly shorter COAL than pretty much every other projectile I can find, including the Speer 170gn so I have reseated a few rounds just under the Hornday max listed length and I will give them a try as soon as I can get to the range. The same case have no issue with 150gn RN's. Doesn't mean that isn't the issue if there is the slightest difference between the diameter of the Hornady FTX's and Hornady RN's. I will see how the reseat goes then I will look at neck after if I still have issue. I appreciate your thoughts and comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
On the subject of brass, I have found Starline to be the best I've used across the board.
Unfortunately, like the rest of the reloading components available, hard to get at the moment.
Agreed. We were a couple of years behind you guys. For a year or two components were not much of an issue but now we either struggle to find stuff or we have seen a 75% increase in stuff. When I started seeing you guys running out a couple of years ago, I started to stock up. I'm keen to try Starline brass but haven't seen any in 30-30. That said, then hunting in the bush you can loose a bit of brass, especially if you come upon a mob of pigs, so for that purpose the cheaper the better as I never come how with all my brass :)
 

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Welcome.
This problem has been brought up here before in the past.
usually can wait a minute for cooldown and the brass extracts.
The PPUbrass doesn’t contract immediately after firing.
My opinion:
Try other brass and if it works trash the PPU.
And yes I know brass is hard to locate but…
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Welcome.
This problem has been brought up here before in the past.
usually can wait a minute for cooldown and the brass extracts.
The PPUbrass doesn’t contract immediately after firing.
My opinion:
Try other brass and if it works trash the PPU.
And yes I know brass is hard to locate but…
In your opinion, would that not effect all loads with that brass? I'm not having issues with Hornady 150 RN's with the same brass. If it prove probable that their is incompatibility between the FTX projectiles and PPU then I will definitely change. I will have a look around and see if I can source a different brand anyway just to rule it out. Cheers.
 

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Yes I changed bullets but it only helped a little. Still had the problem.
Had loaded and shot probably 300 FTX’s in these guns with no problem. Using Leverlution powder.

As I remember the 30-30 brass was the only one having this problem.
There is a thread here discussing this topic, maybe in the reloading section.

Ditched mine and no more problem.
Any of the old members (before crash) on here.
That knows where it is.
Swaney?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yes I changed bullets but it only helped a little. Still had the problem.
Had loaded and shot probably 300 FTX’s in these guns with no problem. Using Leverlution powder.

As I remember the 30-30 brass was the only one having this problem.
There is a thread here discussing this topic, maybe in the reloading section.

Ditched mine and no more problem.
Any of the old members (before crash) on here.
That knows where it is.
Swaney?
Thanks, I did look for it but perhaps I wasn't thorough enough. I did since find something on another forum suggesting that the OAL is my problem. I guess I will see.

I hear good things about leverlution powder, unfortunately it comes packed in unatainium when I am, though an Aussie in another state indicated he got his hands on some a while back. Where I am though, it appears non-existent.

Thanks for you feedback
 

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One last stab in the dark...

Is the brass you are using all your own brass that was previously fired in THE SAME rifle? No chance it was fired in another rifle and you just happened to load that particular box with FTX bullets?

Reason I ask is because I just had the identical issue with reloads for my son and I's Marlins in 35 Remington. I've got 3 of them in 35 and very often only neck size cases from the two we normally shot but when I tried to use those reloads in my latest 35 it was just a little hard to close the lever the last 1/4" or so and if you tried to eject it, it wouldn't come out. Had to tap it out from the muzzle. I'm pretty sure the tight spot is near the case head but not for sure. I know it's not at the shoulder because I've measured that part already.

Anyway, just a thought since it seems everything else has been covered.
 

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Brass isn't stamped 'PPU' is it?
The best theory I've heard for that Serbian brass is that i's stiffer than others and after the 3rd firing mine wouldn't spring back anymore. Had to pound the empties out with a rod down the barrel while pulling the lever.
 
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