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Discussion Starter #1
I'd be interested to see and hear of your sporterized Mausers, especially the work you did yourself. Don't be afraid of boring me with the details, I'm looking for some tips and tricks.
I've got a project myself, I'll post the picts when it get it where I want it.
 

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My first centerfire rifle was a Type 99 Arisaka, and I spent a lot of time tinkering with it. The forend was all busted up so I cut it back and tapered it, basically the only modification I did to it. I spent a lot of time practicing my ham-handed metalworking skills (if you can call them that) polishing the receiver. It was a late-war gun, rough as a cob, and was a bring-back from the Pacific Theater with the crest ground off, so I didn't worry about ruining it. I think I paid $55 for it, complete with a box of shells. I'm pretty sure the shells were worth more than the gun. I still have it. 8)
 

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I started a project on a 1917 Danzig action, that was originally intended to be a 9.3x62. It was at the gunsmith's, waiting for the barrel. In the meantime, I came across a 1915 Berlin, in a Hogue stock, heavier than average 22" Shilen barrel in 35 Whelen, Timney trigger, etc. I got it for $400 with a free box of ammo, put a scope on it and took it elk hunting, but didn't get a chance to use on an elk. I haven't got it to shoot super accurately yet, but after the season I noticed that the front action screw wasn't very tight. Have it apart right now to tweak the stock fit.

I had the gunsmith install a Lothar Walther 6.5 Swede barrel on the first action. I got it back a while ago, and have been working on hand polishing it getting ready to do the rust bluing on it. I bought a factory FN safety shroud for it, but haven't put it on yet. I have a semi inletted stock blank for this, but I may put it in another stock in the meantime so I can shoot it sooner. I've been coming to realize that that stock fitting and finishing is going to take some time to do carefully.

I also have a bare Czech receiver. It has some pitting on it, but I'm thinking of trying to do this one myself with used parts as cheap as possible and make it a 30-06.

And then one military Turk with pretty wood.
 

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Not a Mauser, a 1917 Eddystone that was built up before I bought it.











The builder knew what he was doing and it's a real shooter. This rifle is so heavy, I wonder how our boys carried the originals in the field.

Made in June of 1918, the bore was so dirty and copper fouled, I suspect it was NEVER cleaned in all those years. I took literally two weeks and during that time I had the bore filled with foaming bore cleaner and kept removing copper that looked like blue pen ink.

It's clean now and the bore is like new. Shoots great!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Turk with pretty wood -

Mine is a Yugo 22/47. After I got off layers and layers of cosmo, sanded, the orignal walnut actually had some nice figure to it. It also had a couple of small knots and checks, so it was far from #1 by civilian standards, but it isn't bad looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The inlay is something on the Pattern '17. Of course, being from just North of the Red River, I find it regretable that it is in the shape of Texas.
 

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The very first gunsmithing I ever did. I bought a Swedish Mauser M96 from K-Mart for $79. I figured if I screwed it up it wouldn't break the bank.

Using a Smithy 3 in 1 lathe/mill I did all the work......

Converted to cock on opening with a Daison Taiser trigger kit
Welded on a butter knife bolt handle made from a real honest to goodness butter knife!
machines and installed the Winchester M70 type safey
Machined the muzzle brake
Threaded the barrel and installed the muzzle brake
Stock it in a Tupperware stock
Drilled and taped for scope mounts (This was a great learning experience! Mausers are hard!)
Made my own scope mounts
Learned how to "Jewel" and did the bolt and bolt release









The amazing thing is how accurate this rifle is. It will easily shoot under an inch for three rounds at 100 yds with the 100 year old factory barrel! When I started this project I couldn't even spell "lathe", nevermind operate one. Lots of time at the library and watching gunsmithing "video tapes".........then I just jumped right in..........Lots of fun.

I've built dozens of rifles since on much improved machinery, but none have been as rewarding...........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A $79 Swedish Mauser - how log ago was that?
 

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I had a .404 Jeffrey made up on an opened up Model 98 action years back. My local smith did all the metal work, I had a custom synthetic stock made with NECG irons. I had an eye accident before it was finished ( toen left retina,bummer) so gave it to a Missionary friend of mine.
 

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I figured you were going to say you had an eye accident BECAUSE of it. That would have been a real shoulder pounder.
 

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Ha! Well, after a full year and four procedures later, I wasn't going to chance it! It wasn't too bad at all, used a 400 gr at 2300 fps. It reminded me of a 300gr load in a .375H&H, but it hits game closer to a .458. I had a cape buffalo cull hunt lining up, but the torn retina nixed it...
 

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When I got a lathe 10 years ago, rbertalotto was very helpful.
He is the poster above with the OTHER Mauser with a Chapman M70 type safety and the butter knife bolt handle.
Here is his web site.

Here is the pic he posted for me.
My brother made a 4 bolt version for his Jet 13x40 lathe.
I have made (3) 4 bolt versions for my Clausing, Atlas, and Precision Matthews lathes.
 

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I just purchased a custom 1915 Danzig. It has a 90 degree bolt with inside flat knurled. Receiver#2xx, bolt 39xx, can't figure out what gun the bolt came off. It has a 8mm stepped 23-5/8 barrel bore is excellent overall gun looks good, just sent bolt out to be jeweled. I paid $300 for the gun and i can't wait for weather to break to get out and shoot im curious to see how well it shoots. I'll take pics when i get bolt back, then i have to figure out how to post them. The pictures you all posted are some very nice looking guns. OMT"
 

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This is the mauser my dad give me not to long ago. It was sporterized pre WW2 and was a bring back by my uncle and given to my dad a long time ago. It was taken from a dead german sniper.



 
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This is the mauser my dad give me not to long ago. It was sporterized pre WW2 and was a bring back by my uncle and given to my dad a long time ago. It was taken from a dead german sniper.



Plumbernater, nice gun thats a real prize, and original optics! is the scope still clear, and have you shot it. Curious to know how well it shoots. Great rifle, Good luck. OMT"
 

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Oh yes scope is still clear it will fog in wet weather though. And yes I ve shot it quit alot from years ago hog hunting with my dad. The 8mm will do a job on a hog as well He use to have some armor piercing rounds at one time that came back with the gun from germany. a v8 engine bloke well they would go right through.
 
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My youngest son and I are working to bring new life back to the old '98 Mauser that my grandfather had Roy Weatherby's old shop build into a .257 Wby mag, back in the late 1940's. It's a work in progress at this point:







Timney trigger & safety:






He hopes to hunt with it this season. It's coming along. More work than I thought it would be to make it 100% reliable again.
 

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Hey Plumber; thats good to hear about the 8mm, what i don't like is the under powered american ammo. What ammo do you suggest for hunting deer? I really like your 257 project thats a nice round. You got some nice wood on that mauser. Is it a K98 or Gew98. I just sent my bolt out to be jeweled when i get it back i'll post some pictures. My wood is not as nice as yours but it looks much like yours. Have you ever heard of caseys paste blueing. I need to do some touch up, someone told me to try caseys any suggestions? Thanks OMT"
 

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Ive also got a old Carl Gustaf Swedish mauser in 6.5x55. Ive been entertaining the thought of sporterizing it. Its as stock as the day she was made right now. With the 6.5 round and sporterized . I bet she would be a nice hunter.
 
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